just unbolt them and replace. they are rubber and dry rot/crack over time. i didn’t touch diff when doing the exhaust like in this link but he has some good pics.
https://www.fordraptorforum.com/threads/gen-1-6-2-engine-mount-motor-mount-replacement.92133/
i ceramic my long tubes along with the cross over pipes that go under the transmission. imo every bit helps to reduce under hood temps and minimize heat transferred to the transmission. id consider your motor mounts while you are in there since they are easy to remove without the exhaust in the way.
consider age, mileage, and if you are paying someone to do the work. if the iwe arent damaged and you dont mind getting back in there to replace them when they go bad i would not hesitate to just replace the cv. if you paying a shop, its not hard to replace the iwe once the cv is out of the way.
LV fluid looks dark after short use. cut and past from ford:
21138 AUTO TRANS - MERCON LV FLUID COLOR
SOME 2008-2010 VEHICLES, EQUIPPED WITH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FACTORY FILLED WITH MERCON LV FLUID (PART # XT-10-QLV), MAY EXHIBIT DARK COLORED TRANS FLUID THAT MAY LOOK BURNT IN APPEARANCE...
i went with stop tech slotted/drilled rotors and motorcraft severe duty pads. good bite from those pads and the rotors allow off road debris to escape and not get caught between the pads and rotor.
barely discolored plugs after use might not be a good thing. clean plugs could be a sign of an engine running lean/hot or coolant getting into cylinder and steam cleaning the plugs.
probably a combination of the iwe delete plus the the added angle of the height change with the perch. i had replaced my cv boots with the soft rubber ones but they still eventually rubbed a hole into themselves. i recently adjusted my shocks to the low perch and’s installed new shafts. i will...
sometimes dyno shops will tell you up front their dyno reads “ low” so customers don’t get upset with low numbers. an eddy current dyno vs a regular dyno??? sounds like the shop is just throwing jargon at you. all the dyno shops ive used throughout the usa refer to their dyno by the brand and...
that first leak is dried up axle fluid. easy and inexpensive repair. i just changed that seal this past weekend. seal was in stock at a local auto parts. the 2nd not sure, is the oil coming from above the exhaust hanger?
if u know what cylinder has the misfire, mark that coil and switch it with a cylinder that you know isn’t misfiring. if the misfire follows that marked coil, then you got your answer.
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