Wiring Locking Differential to Up-Fitter Switch

[MTF]

I always thought there are Eaton's in the front not sure about the back.

This is from Eaton's Manual's

How do I activate my ELocker?
ELockers are activated by a dash (or console) mounted
switch; included with all new ELockers. Any suitable
12VDC (or 24VDC for military designs) switch will
work. The harness with a relay switch, chassis
electrical system protecting diode, and fuse is included
with all aftermarket performance ELocker differentials.

Differential Manuals

 

[dkfc13]

I always thought there are Eaton's in the front not sure about the back.

This is from Eaton's Manual's

How do I activate my ELocker?
ELockers are activated by a dash (or console) mounted
switch; included with all new ELockers. Any suitable
12VDC (or 24VDC for military designs) switch will
work. The harness with a relay switch, chassis
electrical system protecting diode, and fuse is included
with all aftermarket performance ELocker differentials.

Differential Manuals

From Ford's website:

FIRM GRIP AND HANDLING

4.10 TORSEN® front differential
Helps to improve handling over obstacles, on slippery conditions or steep grades
Internal helical gearset transfers torque from wheels with less traction to wheels that have more traction

TORSEN® is a registered trademark of JTEKT
FIRM GRIP AND HANDLING

 

[MTF]

Thank you for setting me straight!!! I don't have a front locker on my 2010 1/2 so I didn't pay attention to who makes them.

And a British company makes the rears?

 

[dkfc13]

Thank you for setting me straight!!! I don't have a front locker on my 2010 1/2 so I didn't pay attention to who makes them.

And a British company makes the rears?

GKN Driveline Media Centre : GKN Driveline unveils Electronic

 

[MTF]

Thanks!!! I was trying to Google it that's why I asked.

 

[dkfc13]

You're welcome.

 

[Hole Shot]

I'm subbed interested in doing this also. Great idea. When I get off of vacation I will see what the v is going to the locker. And a diode should take care of any unwanted v return.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MTF]

Ok I just saw the other thread discussing the same thing, maybe we can combine the two threads,
I'd really like to see a work around keeping the rear locker on in any mode we choose.

http://www.fordraptorforum.com/f12/up-fitter-switch-locking-differential-37348/

---------- Post added at 11:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:29 PM ----------

There has to be something with using a diode like I found on Eaton's website.

A Diode can be used to reduce voltage on a 12v system to 5v. Now how this stuff works is way beyond me.

But I'll post a link to try to get the juices flowing: How to Reduce Voltage on a 12-Volt System | eHow

There's a lot of hits if you search Diode. I'm guessing this is in our trucks as RPG pointed out in the other thread. the voltage drops to 5v at some point


At least lets find out how the wires run from the locking knob to the diff, or even if it's can-bus based or direct wiring.
And where in the truck is the 12v to 5v being controlled.






---------- Post added at 11:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:48 PM ----------

They should be combined and maybe move to the "Ford Raptor Engine Discussion and Performance Mods-6.2 Liter V8"

 

[jondle]

I think you should focus on the problem first, before looking for the solution. By that I mean, you don't really know what you need to implement yet, just some speculation.

First things first, test, test, test. You need to figure out what is going into the diff. Then you need to know what each of the wires does over time. There are probably two wires, a hot and ground. Measure the volts and amps going across them in all situations you can think of. Try to correlated the voltage drop to an event; the event could be a certain amount of time or when the diff is actually locked or something I'm not thinking of.

Once you have that information, you then know what problem you are trying to solve. Your problem would be something like, "I need 13V with 5A for 30 seconds and then 5V with 5A continuous."

Plenty of people on here can help with the electronics once they know what you actually need. There are many ways to drop voltage. You probably want something that is more of a regulator than simple diodes or resistors would be. Remember, 12V is a rough estimate for automotive voltage and it normally is between 13 and 14 with the car running and closer to 11 when it isn't. Again though, the actual electronic components don't need to come into play until we know what we want the electronics to do.

 

[MTF]

That's exactly what I'm trying to get at and why I bump both threads. I'm trying to get the wheels spinning.

RPG was trying to put a Raptor's rear-end into a regular F150,
so saying there is something a miss with voltage, I guess really kind of doesn't count.

Knowing what the Raptor does is important first!!!!!

Plenty of members have full access to Ford Service manuals and testing procedures when something isn't working.

I don't have the time for proper testing and good muti volt/amp/ohm meters to do just that.