Which light should I wire to which switches? Advice please

[Booth9999]

Hey guys,
I need help on how to distribute the lights among the 6 factory switches from someone more experienced than me.
I currently have my icom ID-5100a radio on switch 1
My GJ Motorsport brake light kit’s 2 S2’s ambers on switch 2 and the center clear S2 on switch 3.

I want to add a 30” S8 to the grill on a switch, the unlimited fog kit all on one switch I think, and 2 S2’s backup lights to another or possibly tie this into the center clear S2 on third brake light. The truck is a 17 for wire color reference. Any help would be awesome! Thanks

 

[goblues38]

pretty simple....1 and 2 get your biggest draws on power like big lights. 3 and 4 are for medium things.......5 and 6 are for small items.

you have to match up the max draw for each device...look at the manual....or at least look at the size of the fuze it has.

the 6 up fitter switches have different power ratings ...dont have the exact numbers...RTFM to be sure.

 

[zombiekiller]

for the big lightbars and higher draw lights, you may want to consider using a relay and fuse to ensure lowest resistance and avoid regular fuse pops.

I run all my lights, large and small through a trail rocker set up. It ensures that each circuit gets a full 30A.

 

[91Eunos]

for the big lightbars and higher draw lights, you may want to consider using a relay and fuse to ensure lowest resistance and avoid regular fuse pops.

I run all my lights, large and small through a trail rocker set up. It ensures that each circuit gets a full 30A.

^^ This.

I currently run my lights individually through separate upfitters because I’m not drawing too many amps yet. When I add more lights, I’ll need to combine some of them...and when I step up to a large bar (or winch) up front, I’ll need to run a relay anyway. Probably should have just saved myself some time in the long run by doing the relay(s) now, but I’m impatient!

From my writeup in the FRL thread:

Switch 1 (15 Amp): Reserved for future light bar or winch (via relay)

Switch 2 (15 Amp): Baja Design XL-80 driving/combo on SDHQ A-pillar mounts

Switch 3 (10 Amp): Baja Design Squadron Pro spot lights; inboard position in FRL mount

Switch 4 (10 Amp): Baja Design Squadron Pro wide cornering; middle position in FRL mount

Switch 5 (5 Amp): KC Flex Lights with amber covers; outer position in FRL mount

Switch 6 (5 Amp): Tailgate release switch; sold by FRF member @Ruby in the classifieds here

 

[Booth9999]

for the big lightbars and higher draw lights, you may want to consider using a relay and fuse to ensure lowest resistance and avoid regular fuse pops.

I run all my lights, large and small through a trail rocker set up. It ensures that each circuit gets a full 30A.

Ok I’m a little slow on electrical; the rocker setup, is that a new rocker panel and switches or do you run the rocker panel then wired into the switches? Or do I run a relay and fuse for each light/switch set. Only want to do it once but it seems I’m within the amp limit for each switch. I’m planning on tackling this project next weekend as long as the temps allow (no garage here).
Here is the setup I’m considering let me know if I have something misconstrued.

Switch 1 The radio runs 13 amp draw
Switch 2 The S8 30” bar runs at 12.12 amp so switch 2
Switch 3 The squadron racers are 2.9 amp draw(I think for the pair)
“ “ The squadron pro’s are the same 2.9 amp draw
“ “ The S2 pro’s run at 1.7 amp = 7.5 for the set all on switch 3
Switch 4 S2’s reverse lights 1.7 amp
Switch 5 1 S2 sport in 3rd brake light
Switch 6 2 S2 sports in 3rd brake light dust lights.

Thanks in advance!

 

[zombiekiller]

Ok I’m a little slow on electrical; the rocker setup, is that a new rocker panel and switches or do you run the rocker panel then wired into the switches? Or do I run a relay and fuse for each light/switch set. Only want to do it once but it seems I’m within the amp limit for each switch. I’m planning on tackling this project next weekend as long as the temps allow (no garage here).
Here is the setup I’m considering let me know if I have something misconstrued.

Switch 1 The radio runs 13 amp draw
Switch 2 The S8 30” bar runs at 12.12 amp so switch 2
Switch 3 The squadron racers are 2.9 amp draw(I think for the pair)
“ “ The squadron pro’s are the same 2.9 amp draw
“ “ The S2 pro’s run at 1.7 amp = 7.5 for the set all on switch 3
Switch 4 S2’s reverse lights 1.7 amp
Switch 5 1 S2 sport in 3rd brake light
Switch 6 2 S2 sports in 3rd brake light dust lights.

Thanks in advance!

the trail rocker universal kit sets you up so that everything is color coded. You simply run the trigger switch wires from the trail rocker to the hot aux leads under the hood. The trail rocker has a main power feed wire ( which it distributes to all circuits), then device power, device ground and it all buttons up nice and clean.

I'd be mindful of being that close to the max draw with the radio, the s8, and the squadrons/s2s. I usually load each circuit with no more than 60% of the rated max draw. I also use a minimum of 12Ga wire on everything. ( plus waterproof crimps on top of solders with braided wire loom covers. )

All of my wire, crimps, ends, and connections are marine grade with dielectric grease pumped into all connection points.

Even though BD draw ratings are what they are ( very low for the amount of light they put out), if you do not have some variance to the circuit ratings, as they get hot they could flicker a little, especially if you are using thinner gauge wires or your grounds are less than optimal.


I like the trail rocker because everything is color-coded and labeled. I built a custom setup myself for my first pass. tore it all out because the trailrocker setup is super neat and clean. If I had gone this route the first time, I would have saved myself about 10 hours of wiring. ( i have some circuits with resistors, dual power feeds and flasher modules on them).

As for the max circuit ratings without relays, IIRC they are 15a, 15a, 10a, 10a, 5a, 5a. i'd be concerned about 1,2 &3. 4 should be just fine. for 5 and 6, a pair of s2s should be fine.

And yes, before anyone says anything, I am overbuilt and play it extra safe with lighting and electronics. I personally have no desire to have to fix wiring issues or change fuses in the middle of nowhere, at night, when i need my lights.

 

[Booth9999]

the trail rocker universal kit sets you up so that everything is color coded. You simply run the trigger switch wires from the trail rocker to the hot aux leads under the hood. The trail rocker has a main power feed wire ( which it distributes to all circuits), then device power, device ground and it all buttons up nice and clean.

I'd be mindful of being that close to the max draw with the radio, the s8, and the squadrons/s2s. I usually load each circuit with no more than 60% of the rated max draw. I also use a minimum of 12Ga wire on everything. ( plus waterproof crimps on top of solders with braided wire loom covers. )

All of my wire, crimps, ends, and connections are marine grade with dielectric grease pumped into all connection points.

Even though BD draw ratings are what they are ( very low for the amount of light they put out), if you do not have some variance to the circuit ratings, as they get hot they could flicker a little, especially if you are using thinner gauge wires or your grounds are less than optimal.


I like the trail rocker because everything is color-coded and labeled. I built a custom setup myself for my first pass. tore it all out because the trailrocker setup is super neat and clean. If I had gone this route the first time, I would have saved myself about 10 hours of wiring. ( i have some circuits with resistors, dual power feeds and flasher modules on them).

As for the max circuit ratings without relays, IIRC they are 15a, 15a, 10a, 10a, 5a, 5a. i'd be concerned about 1,2 &3. 4 should be just fine. for 5 and 6, a pair of s2s should be fine.

And yes, before anyone says anything, I am overbuilt and play it extra safe with lighting and electronics. I personally have no desire to have to fix wiring issues or change fuses in the middle of nowhere, at night, when i need my lights.

Thanks! I’ll have to read this a few times but I had plenty of electrical issues on my 86 ranger build and would rather play it safe. Any chance you could supply me a link and some pics to the rocker setup. Merry Xmas and thanks for the help.

 

[zombiekiller]

here is what I'm using: https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/57100

I can take some pics of where mine is mounted once I bring my truck back home ( at the wrap joint right now).

 

[Kahuna]

LVJ is your other option if you don't want to do it yourself.

https://www.lvjmotorsports.com/product-page/gen-2-relay-upgrade-mod

 

[zombiekiller]

LVJ is your other option if you don't want to do it yourself.

https://www.lvjmotorsports.com/product-page/gen-2-relay-upgrade-mod

the 100A max kinda kills it for my purposes, however, for 99% of the folks on here, that kit would work just fine.

I got a smoking deal on the trail rocker I bought ( used but never installed), but even if I hadn't, I still would have gone this way due to the 240A max. I still have one extra circuit on mine free, but with EVERYTHING turned on, I don't see a hint of a flicker or issue.

The other cool thing about the trail rocker, at least for those with winches, is that it also has an integrated winch control/power option so all of your winch wiring can be neat and clean.

I LOVE the SPOD stuff, but I really didn't have a need to swap out all the switches too.