what is "normal" coolant temp on a gen 2

[Wfo]

getting all of the air out is certainly a challenge. I have had the same struggles.

I have:
FR radiator
FR trans cooler
SPD 170 Degree Tstat.


With an ambient of 105 degrees, The truck will idle with A/C on at full blast at 180 degrees. On the highway, Cruising at 70-80, my temps are generally about 205. The temps only climb when I'm doing over 100 mph for more than 5-10 minutes. In those cases, the temp will float to 215-220.

Driving hard offroad, between 40 and 80, my temps will float between 205-218.

I had everything but the SPD tstat on my previous trip. My temps went as high as 265.

I'm planning to install some high CFM spal fans to help with cooling at the "middle speeds" but that is me wanting to make the change, not having to make the change.

as for wintertime starts, the Tstat is mechanical and won't open until 170 degrees, so it isn't going to make it take longer to warm up, it will just run cooler.

the bigger radiator won't lower temps, but it will make sure that they do not "swing" wildly. essentially the bigger rad will prevent overheating conditions ) to a degree) and will give you a larger buffer to react and let the truck cool down. The more consistent temps will also prevent the PCM from pulling timing.


as far as air in the system, do you have an aftermarket overflow tank? If so, go back to the stocker. Also, check the plastic fittings for "drip" leaks. I found one on the lower overflow tank line during the last trip, it was allowing a super small leak, but also was allowing air to be reintroduced into the system. It took a while to find it and it was making me think that I had a head or headgasket issue. Nope! just a stupid fitting leak that was fixed with some waterweld.

I’m still running the oem expansion tank. I don’t have any leaks that I’m aware of, no drips. I have the spd 180 thermostat. Temps outside are getting cold in the northeast and I’m still seeing temps around 210/215 deg at 80/85 highway speeds.

 

[CigarPundit]

I’ll be installing my SPD 170* tstat soon. All this talk of air in the system has me worried. My understanding of the procedure for just replacing the tstat is to simply remove the reservoir cap, remove the bolts securing the housing, pop the new tstat in, resinstall the bolts, and then start the engine, do a fast idle to get it up above 180, let the coolant flow from the reservoir into the rad, and then top off the reservoir as needed before replacing the cap. The system is supposed to be self-purging. Am I missing something, or are those with air problems also replacing the rad?

 

[zombiekiller]

I’ll be installing my SPD 170* tstat soon. All this talk of air in the system has me worried. My understanding of the procedure for just replacing the tstat is to simply remove the reservoir cap, remove the bolts securing the housing, pop the new tstat in, resinstall the bolts, and then start the engine, do a fast idle to get it up above 180, let the coolant flow from the reservoir into the rad, and then top off the reservoir as needed before replacing the cap. The system is supposed to be self-purging. Am I missing something, or are those with air problems also replacing the rad?

after you replace the tstat and BEFORE the overflow tank empties, fill the overflow tank to above the "max" line. That way once the tstat opens, you are only working on clearing one air bubble, vs 2. ( if the overflow tank emptied and then you added more coolant).

Think of it as similar to the way you bleed brakes. Never let the reservoir run dry.

You may have to do it a few times, but let the truck get to temp/ Hold the throttle at 3000 rpm for about 45 seconds. shut the truck down, crack the cap to let the air out ( might get a little messy). Let it cool down, refill the reservoir to the max line, then do it again.

I tend to wait until I see the coolant temps spike, then wait till the coolant temp goes down 10-15 degrees. that's when I shut her off and crack the cap bc generally, that's how to tell that the air bubble moved out of the block. after you do it a couple of times you'll notice that the temp stops spiking by 10 degrees and the temp fluctuations become gradual and correlate to engine load. that's when you know you've bled the majority of the air out.

 

[CigarPundit]

Thank you.

 

[zemuron99]

I’ll be installing my SPD 170* tstat soon. All this talk of air in the system has me worried. My understanding of the procedure for just replacing the tstat is to simply remove the reservoir cap, remove the bolts securing the housing, pop the new tstat in, resinstall the bolts, and then start the engine, do a fast idle to get it up above 180, let the coolant flow from the reservoir into the rad, and then top off the reservoir as needed before replacing the cap. The system is supposed to be self-purging. Am I missing something, or are those with air problems also replacing the rad?

Keep us posted. I'd really like to do this myself, but would want an experienced hand around. You busy after T'giving? Maybe a quick road trip to cali could be put on the calendar. If the job isn't too complex would you be willing to help out (W/proper compensation, of course!)

 

[CigarPundit]

Keep us posted. I'd really like to do this myself, but would want an experienced hand around. You busy after T'giving? Maybe a quick road trip to cali could be put on the calendar. If the job isn't too complex would you be willing to help out (W/proper compensation, of course!)

I'll certainly post my experience. But I would not say I'm an experienced mechanic by any means. Spark plugs, oil changes, and minor accessory installation (tonneau cover, lights, wiring, Forscan, etc.), is really all I have done. Happy to help if you want the blind leading the blind, but wouldn't want to be paid.

Seems pretty straightforward.

 

[zombiekiller]

Keep us posted. I'd really like to do this myself, but would want an experienced hand around. You busy after T'giving? Maybe a quick road trip to cali could be put on the calendar. If the job isn't too complex would you be willing to help out (W/proper compensation, of course!)

it is literally 3-4 bolts and a few hose clamps. If you screw up twice, it should still take you under 20 minutes.

 

[RipReturns]

I was curious about this because - for the first time in nearly 3 years of living in Texas - my Gen II dash display posted a number (230F → 226F) while driving (mild) uphill @ 80MPH in 97F (heat index 103F) with AC on (75F). FYI: Dash display normally is 1-2 "clicks" to left (cooler) of straight up, but when it went "straight up" (not needling towards warm/hot). I didn't FORSCAN my truck, so was surprised to see numbers pop up.

 

[mattyz99]

I know these beast “like to run hot” but I was having the same problem with my coolant temps spiking off-roading or playing around doing hard pulls I’m talking like 220-230s so I went ahead and installed a 170 degree t stat and never had another spike since. I’d go for it, just peace of mind so you can concentrate on having fun

 

[scary gary]

Looking for input or options and thanks in advance.
17 raptor running 37s with turbo smart bov.
Coming back from Barstow today my temp started to show 234-236. Outside temp was 110*. No load on truck. Cruising 70 mph. When I would speed up to pass or keep up with traffic flow the temp would rise to 234/236. The temp would then drop to 220 as I got let off the gas and the digital reading would disappear.