What did u do to your raptor today?

[SVTTrooper]

Used my Raptor as a workbench, protecting the wood I’m going to use to replace my front deck.View attachment 313642View attachment 313643View attachment 313644

Nothing better than the smell of cedar.

How much did it cost? Might have been able to buy another Gen 1 for the same price! Haha

 

[CoronaRaptor]

Nothing better than the smell of cedar

All I can smell now is that protectant, strong stuff, lol

 

[SVTTrooper]

All I can smell now is that protectant, strong stuff, lol

You might have to go lay down for a bit haha.. that **** is strong for sure lol.

 

[CoronaRaptor]

You might have to go lay down for a bit haha.. that **** is strong for sure lol.

I was laying down while it was drying, went to the dentist, ha ha, come home and it still stinks around here, lol

 

[Chiefapple]

Unfortunately the IAT is part of the MAF senor so you're only reading the air coming in right after the air filter.
So you are giving miss information.

oooo. Good call. Move the MAF to right next to the throttle body, then you won’t have to add a sensor like I suggested.

 

[B E N]

oooo. Good call. Move the MAF to right next to the throttle body, then you won’t have to add a sensor like I suggested.

Not required. The air temps are so similar Ford did not see a reason to set the IAT in the manifold. I don't either. If you are running a blower that changes things because the supercharger is heating the air after the MAF. Remember how quickly the air is moving through the system, and that the system has low heat conductivity. Also remember all the "cool air" kits keep the maf in the stock location. As long as the air is being pulled from a cool location the intake air will be cool.

Think of it this way, a 411 hp engine requires about 285 cfm airflow. 285 cubic feet of air weighs about 23 pounds. That is a lot of thermal mass, moving quickly, especially when compared to the thermal mass of the air inside the engine bay, lets be generous and say the engine bay is 30 cubic feet, thats only ~2.5 lbs of air at whatever temp. Since the engine bay is still hot we have to assume the airflow through the intake isn't cooling it.

You might see some temp gain if you have been cruising a while and romp on it, but that temp is going to come down very quickly, if you heat the air you have to pull that energy from somewhere, once the energy is gone the heating stops.

Also, why even worry about it. Air density at 80° is .07516 lb/ft. At 100° it is .07089 lb/ft. It's a 6% change, at 20°! We are talking about a fraction of that. Take the needless junk out of your truck, or run on a half tank, you will see more gain.

 

[Chiefapple]

Not required. The air temps are so similar Ford did not see a reason to set the IAT in the manifold. I don't either. If you are running a blower that changes things because the supercharger is heating the air after the MAF. Remember how quickly the air is moving through the system, and that the system has low heat conductivity. Also remember all the "cool air" kits keep the maf in the stock location. As long as the air is being pulled from a cool location the intake air will be cool.

Think of it this way, a 411 hp engine requires about 285 cfm airflow. 285 cubic feet of air weighs about 23 pounds. That is a lot of thermal mass, moving quickly, especially when compared to the thermal mass of the air inside the engine bay, lets be generous and say the engine bay is 30 cubic feet, thats only ~2.5 lbs of air at whatever temp. Since the engine bay is still hot we have to assume the airflow through the intake isn't cooling it.

You might see some temp gain if you have been cruising a while and romp on it, but that temp is going to come down very quickly, if you heat the air you have to pull that energy from somewhere, once the energy is gone the heating stops.

Also, why even worry about it. Air density at 80° is .07516 lb/ft. At 100° it is .07089 lb/ft. It's a 6% change, at 20°! We are talking about a fraction of that. Take the needless junk out of your truck, or run on a half tank, you will see more gain.

Lol, I['m not worried about it. I agree with you.

Just giving the guy that did the insulating, an option to prove his theory.

 

[B E N]

Another option is to convert to e85. All it takes is a tune (entire truck is setup with the same flex fuel stuff as the super duty 6.2l, just have to switch the switch), will drop your combustion air temps via thermal mass and evaporation. The truck will always run max timing because it will not see threshold knock, so you will be in optimum power all the time. Plus with fuel prices doing the mountain climb it can't hurt to have options.

 

[Jakenbake]

Another option is to convert to e85. All it takes is a tune (entire truck is setup with the same flex fuel stuff as the super duty 6.2l, just have to switch the switch), will drop your combustion air temps via thermal mass and evaporation. The truck will always run max timing because it will not see threshold knock, so you will be in optimum power all the time. Plus with fuel prices doing the mountain climb it can't hurt to have options.

Any long term issues running E85 on components, hoses, etc?

We don’t have it anywhere close to, just interested in learning.

 

[B E N]

No, the truck has the same fuel system as the flex fuel trucks, the lines are e85 rated and there is plenty of overhead in the injectors and pump.

I have played with it. I get better fuel economy on a 35-40% ethanol blend than I do with straight low grade gas. Here is the why: At cruise on 87 octane the truck is pulling timing, when you step up to premium and watch timing it will stay near max brake torque timing, that makes a big difference in economy. Ethanol is less energy dense than gasoline, but you are making up for it with combustion efficiency. It is not quite as good as running premium, but lets look at the economics of it (prices are near me in Colorado):

Regular 3.539
Premium (91 octane) 4.159
E85 2.49

50/50 e85 and regular: 3.019
E85 blend octane: 94

94 octane is costing me $0.52 a gallon less than regular gas, and a full $1.15 a gallon cheaper than "premium" 91. I see about the same fuel economy in town and better on the highway than I do with regular. The truck NEVER pulls timing. Even if I saw a decrease in economy, I have a 36 gallon tank, I don't care. As fuel prices climb the price between e85 and premium is going to go up. The best economy I have ever seen out of the truck was 17.3 mpg on e85 blend, that is my standard morning commute and I usually see about 15.3 out of the truck on regular gasoline.

If the truck ever gets boost I will run straight e85. If I am going to be running hard off road or towing I will run straight e85. If regular fuel crests $4 a gallon I will run straight e85, it will end up being cheaper per mile. In the winter time the pump blend drops from 70% ethanol to 50%, in the winter I will run is straight.

My supercharged mustang, my coyote powered 78 f150 both run e85.

I like it so well that if I am going on a long trip I will load up 18 gallons worth of VP cans and stow them in the bed, most large cities have e85, and if you are in corn country it is common. But sometimes it is a way off the highway.

The only warning I have about e85 is the shelf life is not good. If you aren't putting a tank of fuel through your truck every 6 weeks stick with regular fuel.

All you have to do to make it work is have your tuner enable it. If you are in Colorado I can do it for you as well, the logic is already built into the PCM: