What did u do to your raptor today?

[MurderedOutSVT]

Number 34 is in the record book, part of 160k maintenance.

Dahm, that t-body is clean! What did you clean it with? Or do

 

[pat247]

Dahm, that t-body is clean! What did you clean it with? Or do

That is the first time that I really looked at the TB and when I scrutinize the pic I see some crud forming on the edges. The only thing I do is run BG44K through the fuel system every 10k-15k and have since new.

 

[B E N]

Has it made a difference? Hell, I don't know. I don't own a dyno! But it stands to reason that when the engine is hot there will be more power available at wide open throttle because a denser fuel-air mixture will be delivered to the cylinders. It won't affect fuel economy, I'm sure, but it might be a good thing for towing and heavy hauling - particularly in hot climates. I make no claims. It just seemed like a good thing to do.

The answer is no.
At full throttle near the top of the RPM range the air speed through the intake tubing is around 70 ft/sec. The ABS the stock intake is made of is not particularly conductive. Since you have insulated about 3' of travel path you have insulated a dwell time of about .04 of a second, of a non-conductive material, that is constantly being kept around ambient on the inside from the airflow.

Chuck in a water methanol or straight water system if you want to cool your air temps. Or nitrous if you want it real cool At least you got some shiny stuff to look at out of the deal.

 

[Ruger]

@B E N , you wrote that the intake components are "constantly being kept around ambient on the inside from the airflow."
RIGHT. The airflow is picking up the heat from the components, and that hot air is what the engine is breathing.

 

[Chiefapple]

@B E N , you wrote that the intake components are "constantly being kept around ambient on the inside from the airflow."
RIGHT. The airflow is picking up the heat from the components, and that hot air is what the engine is breathing.

I thought you already said earlier that you didn't know if this had any benefits...

Anyway, I agree with Ben. Just because the outside of the component feels hot, doesn't mean the inside feels hot. I would venture a guess that since air is constantly moving through the intake from a cold start, that the air moving through it is pretty close to ambient at all times as the inside of the intake doesn't have time to get hot like the outside because of the moving air.

Anyway, to test both of your theories, someone needs to remove the intake immediately after driving, within moments, and check the temperature of the inside of the intake tube vs the outside.

Then you need to test yours in the same way.

OR someone needs to monitor both situations with a live sensor while driving in both situations.

 

[MTF]

Without drilling and tapping a hole in the plastic manifold and adding a air temp sensor to see any benefit to insulting, we will never truly know.

There are threads out on the internet about warping the air intake track.
Basically you need to warp it with insulting material and then heavy aluminum foil to be truly affective.
Bottom line is the air moving through the track at engine idle can increase up to 40 degrees with a metal tube and less for plastic, but quickly changes at the slightest rpm increase.
So you might see a little benefit coming off a light.

 

[B E N]

Its easy, monitor IAT with a logger such as HPtuners, wrap it, run the same driving scenario. Thing is, I don't need to. I have logged my truck extensively, during any sort of acceleration run the iat are within a degree or 2 of ambient. The intakes on these trucks are pretty good!

Fluid mechanics says there will be a stagnant area at the walls (stagnation point) that is going to further insulate the air flowing through the tube. If the tubing was something conductive like aluminum it would be a more interesting test. Conductivity of abs is around 0.18, aluminum is 239. In other words aluminum is 1327x more conductive than ABS, the intake just doesn't move much heat, especially at the air speeds we are talking about.

I am not trying to give you a bad time @Ruger I appreciate what you did. I appreciate hot rodding of any type. There is a lot of stuff in speed parts that really is just ornamental, it makes us feel good to install and requires no justification. Mostly I just didn't want a bunch of people on the web thinking they would see gains from something like this, better ways to spend the speed budget.

 

[CoronaRaptor]

Found the solution @Ruger

 

[MTF]

Its easy, monitor IAT with a logger such as HPtuners, wrap it, run the same driving scenario. Thing is, I don't need to. I have logged my truck extensively, during any sort of acceleration run the iat are within a degree or 2 of ambient. The intakes on these trucks are pretty good!

Fluid mechanics says there will be a stagnant area at the walls (stagnation point) that is going to further insulate the air flowing through the tube. If the tubing was something conductive like aluminum it would be a more interesting test. Conductivity of abs is around 0.18, aluminum is 239. In other words aluminum is 1327x more conductive than ABS, the intake just doesn't move much heat, especially at the air speeds we are talking about.

I am not trying to give you a bad time @Ruger I appreciate what you did. I appreciate hot rodding of any type. There is a lot of stuff in speed parts that really is just ornamental, it makes us feel good to install and requires no justification. Mostly I just didn't want a bunch of people on the web thinking they would see gains from something like this, better ways to spend the speed budget.

Unfortunately the IAT is part of the MAF senor so you're only reading the air coming in right after the air filter.
So you are giving miss information.

 

[CoronaRaptor]

Used my Raptor as a workbench, protecting the wood I’m going to use to replace my front deck.