Viair constant duty onboard air system any my eventual solution

[AndyR]

Here's a handful of quick iPhone pics I took. Andy... see anything obvious?

Is there a check valve somewhere between the compressor and tank? or is is built into the compressor? Otherwise its time to start with the soapy water. I'd start with the air coupler in the rear. It looks like the line isn't going in straight (is the tire kicking it out a little?)

 

[BigJ]

Is there a check valve somewhere between the compressor and tank? or is is built into the compressor?

A check valve? No, I don't believe there is in this system (confirmed by this? http://www.viaircorp.com/OffRoad/Schematics/10007_pd.pdf) You don't mean the pressure switch on the fill side, right?

Otherwise its time to start with the soapy water. I'd start with the air coupler in the rear. It looks like the line isn't going in straight (is the tire kicking it out a little?)

I think you're right. And now that you mention it, I had the system at full pressure for a day or so before trying it. To try it I had to use the air coupler. Since trying it, I've experienced the leak. I'll bust out the soapy water (Will Windex work?) here is a minute...

 

[Talon]

so this is probably a rookie question but i have no experience with these air tanks. I saw another install where they mounted the air tanks behind the front grill/bumper, there is plenty of room and protection but would that be a good idea with the heat from the motor right there?

 

[MagicMtnDan]

I don't think mounting the tank there would be an issue (although I'm not sure what would happen if there was a front-end accident). The compressors are susceptible to heat soak so care has to be used as to where they are mounted but they produce a significant amount of heat on their own. Considering that we're often in 100+ degree air temps we're starting at a high temp to begin with. I do think mounting them in the area in front of the radiator behind the grille would be a good location.

 

[AndyR]

A check valve? No, I don't believe there is in this system (confirmed by this? http://www.viaircorp.com/OffRoad/Schematics/10007_pd.pdf) You don't mean the pressure switch on the fill side, right?

I think you're right. And now that you mention it, I had the system at full pressure for a day or so before trying it. To try it I had to use the air coupler. Since trying it, I've experienced the leak. I'll bust out the soapy water (Will Windex work?) here is a minute...

If there's no check valve, air will bleed back into the compressor over time when it's not running. You need soapy water (A dilute solution of Dawn or other detergent will work) - so it'll foam when you spray it. You should see the bubbles expand if there's a leak somewhere.

 

[MarkT]

The MV 50's are a great little compressor and Costco sold them at one time for less than $30.

J~ a couple of things I'd like to suggest... one is get rubber caps for the quick connect air fittings. They will fill with water, dirt, and crap very quickly and will be pretty much useless when you need them.

Number two might be best left unsaid... but an air tank needs to have the water drained often to prevent internal rusting. Even a stainless tank needs the moisture drained or the water will end up in the hoses, tires, air tools, etc. For this reason, the drain valve needs to be located at the lowest point. It appears on this install, the drain valve is half way up the side of the tank. Not good since it doesn't look like there are any other fittings in the bottom that could be used to drain condensation from the tank... and believe me, in humid weather a compressor can make a LOT of water.

That said, it does look like you have a check valve in place right where the stainless hose enters the tank. Losing that much air in such a short time indicates there is a leak. Get out the soapy water. It's probably not a major leak because your tank is pretty small (the smaller the volume of the system, the quicker the air will bleed off). Of course all the fittings are suspect... check the quick couplers... Be patient because it's probably a tiny leak... and if nothing else, the check valve could be the culprit.

 

[MarkT]

:sad: Oh... one more VERY important thing. Viair has a "remote filter" kit that might have come with your compressor? But I see they screwed the inlet air filter right into the compressor. That's a BAD idea for a compressor mounted under the truck! You need to run the remote kit and mount the filter somewhere high up... preferably inside the cab if possible.

 

[Xjrguy]

......or into the truck's air filter housing.

 

[BigJ]

Hey guys. Lots of 'real world' stuff going on with me right now so sorry for the lack of followup/response. Please keep the comments/concerns/suggestions coming; I fully understand this install is less than ideal, and if we can all learn from it via comments from more experienced folks, then by all means lets.

Right now I've got to focus on other stuff, so this project has been back burnered (and its why I just had the 4x4 shop install it; maybe a bad idea in retrospect). But I plan to get back to it in the coming weeks.

Thanks again.

 

[BigJ]

J~ a couple of things I'd like to suggest... one is get rubber caps for the quick connect air fittings. They will fill with water, dirt, and crap very quickly and will be pretty much useless when you need them.

Excellent point. Got a source? Quick google searching didn't turn up much.

Number two might be best left unsaid... but an air tank needs to have the water drained often to prevent internal rusting. Even a stainless tank needs the moisture drained or the water will end up in the hoses, tires, air tools, etc. For this reason, the drain valve needs to be located at the lowest point. It appears on this install, the drain valve is half way up the side of the tank. Not good since it doesn't look like there are any other fittings in the bottom that could be used to drain condensation from the tank... and believe me, in humid weather a compressor can make a LOT of water.

A bit more on this...

I'm told that they install tanks like this all the time. The benefit is there's nothing hanging low to catch on rocks or whatever, and to tear off. The way they handle the drain issue is to attach a hose to the drain valve. This tube has a 90 degree in it that forces it down to the bottom of the inside of the tank. So when opened, any standing water is pushed up the tube and out the valve.

Sounds like a viable solution to me. Sound about right to you Mark? When I get some time I'll pull it out and verify its there and take a pic or two.