Upgraded IWE

[Wilson]

^ are vacuum shift the bottom are electric shift solenoids



---------- Post added at 01:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:34 PM ----------

 

[Squatting Dog]

I understand what electric solenoids are. Fitting one of those electric solenoids where the IWE actuator is located would be difficult...

A simpler yet proven method would be to use a hydraulic type throw out bearing to engaged/disengage the locking ring..

This howe hydraulic throwout bearing has about 3/8" of travel weighs about two pounds..

This would be ideal but I believe you would still have grinding issues while bringing front drive train up to speed. It almost needs a synchronizer to help with at speed engagements

-Greg (aka Squatting Dog)

 

[Wilson]

I'm thinking way simper. The turning of the electric shaft would have a oval type head as it turns it would push the spring. I'm thinking that instead of air or oil presser.

 

[PropDr]

Could you add an outboard manual locking device?
You could have both, for light duty you would rely on the inboard locking but for serious off-roading you manually lock the hubs.

 

[Squatting Dog]

Could you add an outboard manual locking device?
You could have both, for light duty you would rely on the inboard locking but for serious off-roading you manually lock the hubs.

We looked at that option even calling Borg Warner about making manual locking hubs. Borg Warner said no reason to develop a manual locking hub, their system works as designed.

If the IWE was on the outside of hub it would be easy to make a manual lock. Since it is on the back side of wheel bearing there is no way to access the stupid locking ring from the front.

I went as far as getting a f250 hub with manual locking hub and trying to figure a way adapt it to f150 spindle/upright and axle.

Going to talk to RCV about changing out the outer part of the axle to a fully splined outer axle. If this is possible, then might be able to make it manual locking hubs with already available off the shelf products.

Something like this.

-Greg (aka Squatting Dog)

 

[R1jamn]

^^^
Yes definitely.
I would like to see this developed.
A working prototype will need a sacraficial Raptor.

 

[Squatting Dog]

^^^
Yes definitely.
I would like to see this developed.
A working prototype will need a sacraficial Raptor.

I sent an email off to RCV about this and I will start sourcing parts and see if we can get a kit developed or at least a DIY thread..

Make it something like this 1972 f250 manual lock out..

-Greg (aka Squatting Dog)

 

[BramageDained]

What does GM use for the hubs? I thought the auto-4x4 feature was a clutch in the transfer case.

It's kind of both. On vehicles equipped with auto-4wd.

In 2wd, it's disengaged at the diff and with the clutch in the tcase.

in 4wd auto, it's connected at the diff, and disconnected with the clutch at the Tcase until 4wd is called for my the traction control

in 4wd they're both engaged.


With no synchronizer of any kind, not matter what, you're going to wear the teeth every time it engages/disengages at least a little bit. Multiple IWE failures is what led my dad to switch from Ford to GM for trucks.

I have just under 21K on my truck and so far the IWEs work as intended. But, more than half that is cross-country highway miles so for the miles, my truck as few starts/stops of having to build vacuum to disengage the IWEs.

How much air do you have to move to pull enough vacuum to disengage the IWEs? Could you just pull vacuum from the plenum with some check valves and run another solenoid on a switch(downstream of the one that is part of the system already to valve that off on command) so that even under remote start it would pull vacuum on the IWEs? That way you could override the computer control with another system, then flip that switch back the other way and the truck would have full normal control.

 

[Squatting Dog]

I believe it is 10 pounds per square inch or 22 inches of mercury. Netix is using secondary vacuum source to disengage his hubs..

-Greg (aka Squatting Dog)

 

[ironside]

Subbed to see about a fix for this issue.

I know I have been lucky my 4x4 still works good. I get slight slipping, and have had a cluck maybe 5 times in the life of the truck im at 80k Miles now I'm thinking maybe I should go get it checked out by the dealer before I go out of my extended warranty