Transmission updates - aftermarket pan and dipstick?

[TomDirt]

I'll make sure to wear my heat sleeves.

Pro Tip:

Use the neighbor's hands instead of your own.

Follow me for more Raptor Hacks.

 

[Cody Templeton]

Pro Tip:

Use the neighbor's hands instead of your own.

Follow me for more Raptor Hacks.

I'm not so sure he would want to be my neighbor after I did that to him. Doubt I'd get any more Christmas cookies. lol

 

[FishFreak]

Sure, but if the thermostat is keeping it above 200 degrees, or higher, what's the benefit of having it? The fluid is still going to warm up to temperature, especially if it's running through the radiator cooler.

The thermostat will keep the trans fluid above 200 degrees, however, a larger trans heat exchange in front of the radiator and/or larger capacity oil pan will reduce the eventual high end of the temp range, all things being equal. Cody did you install your cooler control valve yet to see the temp reduction?

I'm thinking the benefits of the HUGE Full Race 20 row trans fluid cooler ($400) would be better than the B&M deep oil pan ($490). What do you guys think?

https://www.full-race.com/2011-2014-ford-f150-raptor-20-row-transmission-cooler

 

[Cody Templeton]

The thermostat will keep the trans fluid above 200 degrees, however, a larger trans heat exchange in front of the radiator and/or larger capacity oil pan will reduce the eventual high end of the temp range, all things being equal. Cody did you install your cooler control valve yet to see the temp reduction?

I'm thinking the benefits of the HUGE Full Race 20 row trans fluid cooler ($400) would be better than the B&M deep oil pan ($490). What do you guys think?

https://www.full-race.com/2011-2014-ford-f150-raptor-20-row-transmission-cooler

No, I have not. The truck is in storage for the winter, and also getting the ADV bedsides put on it. I already have the Full Race trans cooler, which is why I'm also doing the cooler control valve, B&M trans pan, and new lead frame, connector, trans filter, and trans pan gasket. Might as well tackle it all at once. Full Race trans cooler was installed at the same time as their radiator.

 

[FishFreak]

Thank you Cody. My truck's going in for the Ford recall programming Monday after next. Do you think the Full Race trans cooler increases the oil capacity by a quart? It sure is a huge cooler, even compared to the Saudi cooler mod. My trans works beautifully, knock on wood, it's a 2014 with 140k miles but 1st owner, PO/friend did excellent maintenance. I'm just doings preventatively, so I may pick up the things on your list and do it in my driveway (sans the big pan and lead frame since mine works fine).

Couple more questions: does that cooler 'control valve' essentially delete the thermostat, so now when you drain the trans, you may actually also drain the cooler and lines? If you don't know I'll check with them. Also, what trans fluid will you be using and what's the best available?

 

[shoracer]

That being said, any trans upgrades I should look at along with these? There's about a million different pan options. lol

It is not worth upgrading the pan, you are better off upgrading the transmission cooling. The extra pan fluid will in truth hold more heat and the pan is not a cooling device and will hold more heat as there is more fluid to hold heat.

 

[thatJeepguy]

FoMoCo claims these are "lifetime" transmissions, declaring the trans juice is good up to 150,000 miles, or 100K under "severe" conditions.

I keep going back and forth with this in my head.

Maybe its possible to run 100k because there is no combustion going on which will contaminate the fluid.

I myself am of the thought to do it before it hits 65 k.

 

[TomDirt]

That hydraulic fluid has been absorbing metal particles, clutch material, bits of plastic and rubber from all the fittings for over a decade. And heat-cycling all of it.

Whatever the drain pan magnet can't grab gets passed around like a Kardashian in Hollywood. I've never had one of them on a lift, but I expect they need their fluids tested regularly; (The Kardashians, in this case).

 

[Cody Templeton]

It is not worth upgrading the pan, you are better off upgrading the transmission cooling. The extra pan fluid will in truth hold more heat and the pan is not a cooling device and will hold more heat as there is more fluid to hold heat.

Almost like I've already done that, weird.

 

[Cody Templeton]

Update -

Finally had some time to get the truck on the hoist and tear into it. Pulled the pan and gasket, filter, dipstick cover and dipstick, disconnected the lead frame harness and removed the connector sleeve, disconnected the shifter cable to put it into neutral, pulled the valve body/lead frame assembly, and pulled the thermal bypass valve.

Anyone who says these things should be lifetime fluid is full of crap. There was plenty of gray material in the bottom of the pan and stuck to the magnet, and the fluid was definitely dirty and very brown. It wasn't burnt, but it definitely was shot. Gasket surface got cleaned on the trans and the rest got brake cleanered to Hell. After pulling the lead frame the valve body got the same treatment.

Installed the new thermal bypass valve to allow full cooler flow, installed the new lead frame isolator and lead frame onto the valve body and reinstalled it into the truck, and installed a new lead frame connector sleeve. I considered re-using the trans pan gasket as they are re-usable, but decided it was worth just getting a new one, but I did install a new filter. Installed the fittings and magnet into the B&M pan, and got it installed with the new hardware. Installed the knockoff B&M dipstick fittings and flex hose into the trans as well. Only thing I added is that I made a bracket for the upper dipstick mount out of flat steel, and painted it black. I was easily able to fill the trans through the flexible dipstick tube as well. I think I ended up somewhere around 12 quarts, so the pan and Full Race cooler definitely added a fair amount of fluid to the system. Also, the larger pan had no issues clearing my long tube headers and the Y-pipe either.

Cleared faults from all modules with my scan tool and took it on a road test. Trans shifts perfectly again with no limp mode issues, and the fluid definitely stays a lot cooler, somewhere around 1/4 of the way up the gauge instead of 1/2 during normal driving, and no leaks either. Should be ready to pile the miles on.