Three BROKEN oem motorcraft spark plugs :O ?!?

[MadZeus Darknature]

Anti- seize is fine just use it sparingly like 1 or 2 threads and don’t booger it . Im surprised you were able to rebuild the coils half mine were smoked at 119k

 

[pat247]

Anti seize is not recommended for spark plugs, you want the plug to have a solid connection to the block as it is the ground the spark plug needs to work properly.

 

[FishFreak]

Makes me wonder what mine will look like. 218k and no idea if theyve been changed lol.

Is the Ruthenium worth the extra cost? (About $30 more) I was just gonna go with the iridium ones

Yea as all have said, if 140k is way too long, I can't imagine what 218k look like !!

The OEM plugs were Motorcraft Platinum, and they lasted that long. I used Ruthenium but it's my first time. I can let you know in another 100k miles and show you how they've fared ? The Ruthenium have a list of features that make them seem better than other precious metal plugs. They have two diff designs, and both have an odd little contact point that extends off the end of the ground electrode. If you get these, make sure you get the right one for n/a vs forced induction.


I did not know this, and the plugs I got for my n/a 6.2 were the PSPE design, and I should have gotten the DFE design. Oh well, truck is running great so there's that.



NGK claims Ruthenium has better high-temp stability, higher ignitability and more stable under pressure. If all this marketing hype is true than the Ruthenium is a worthwhile upsell. Since I do my work myself, I figure I can go with the best available and $30 more is a drop in the bucket vs paying the dealer $1,200-whatever to do this spark plug change.

But the worn and broken Motorcraft plugs makes me want to change out the plugs in my 'new to me' 2014 Raptor to Ruthenium before it reaches 15k miles so it'll have better performance and cleaner burn from the start. Anyone done that with a new engine, trashed their Motorcraft plugs for a better plug?

 

[FishFreak]

Anti- seize is fine just use it sparingly like 1 or 2 threads and don’t booger it . Im surprised you were able to rebuild the coils half mine were smoked at 119k

When you say half your coils were smoked, what do you mean? Broken or not working? Throwing 'bad coil' codes? I'm in the CA central valley so there's no road salt, hbu?

My truck ran great before. No codes. Coils were clean. None of the 8 resister pills were stuck in the coils, they all easily tapped out. They all had a little green fuzzy coating on them, like electrolysis, so I contact cleaned the pill port, wiped a little dielectric grease on the new pill ends and put 'em back together.

 

[MadZeus Darknature]

The inner plastic was deteriorating bad on half and one was so brittle it shattered removing the boots . The corrosion was expected but not the condition of the plastic. Ya it’s about $900 for new FoMo coils but it was worth it runs extremely smooth . No codes were being thrown and the one I duct taped together still worked till the new ones came in .

 

[Irregular F150]

Yea as all have said, if 140k is way too long, I can't imagine what 218k look like !!

The OEM plugs were Motorcraft Platinum, and they lasted that long. I used Ruthenium but it's my first time. I can let you know in another 100k miles and show you how they've fared ? The Ruthenium have a list of features that make them seem better than other precious metal plugs. They have two diff designs, and both have an odd little contact point that extends off the end of the ground electrode. If you get these, make sure you get the right one for n/a vs forced induction.

View attachment 490241
I did not know this, and the plugs I got for my n/a 6.2 were the PSPE design, and I should have gotten the DFE design. Oh well, truck is running great so there's that.

View attachment 490243

NGK claims Ruthenium has better high-temp stability, higher ignitability and more stable under pressure. If all this marketing hype is true than the Ruthenium is a worthwhile upsell. Since I do my work myself, I figure I can go with the best available and $30 more is a drop in the bucket vs paying the dealer $1,200-whatever to do this spark plug change.

But the worn and broken Motorcraft plugs makes me want to change out the plugs in my 'new to me' 2014 Raptor to Ruthenium before it reaches 15k miles so it'll have better performance and cleaner burn from the start. Anyone done that with a new engine, trashed their Motorcraft plugs for a better plug?

Lol right id think id notice something if they weren’t changed idk.

Since i piecing the plug change together so i guess an extra 30 now is fine. then getting oem coils and idk what wires yet . Unfortunately i have to have it done for me

 

[pcs]

Anti seize is not recommended for spark plugs, you want the plug to have a solid connection to the block as it is the ground the spark plug needs to work properly.

anti seize has soft metal suspended in grease. metals that conduct electricity. the tapered seat contacts the cylinder head and has metal contact. if it prevented the plugs from grounding to the engine, people would have stopped using it decades ago. anti seize was also patented by a spark plug company.

US2419144A - Antiseize and sealing compound - Google Patents

 

[pat247]

anti seize has soft metal suspended in grease. metals that conduct electricity. the tapered seat contacts the cylinder head and has metal contact. if it prevented the plugs from grounding to the engine, people would have stopped using it decades ago. anti seize was also patented by a spark plug company.

US2419144A - Antiseize and sealing compound - Google Patents

Anti seize is a feminine product but if you like it keep using it.

 

[FishFreak]

Lol right id think id notice something if they weren’t changed idk.

Since i piecing the plug change together so i guess an extra 30 now is fine. then getting oem coils and idk what wires yet . Unfortunately i have to have it done for me

If your truck is running good, don't get the coils, they're fine. They just need to be rebuilt by taking out the old corroded resistor and spring under the plug boot. Get 8 of those. It's easy peasy. Motorcraft coils are the only ones to use, yes they're expensive, but lesser are prone to fail, but if yours are working no point in throwing away money.

Boot, resistor and spring for under the 8 coils: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H4XMRSY/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

On my 'old' 2014 I used the MSD wire kit, they were thicker than oem, made in USA, looked and worked well. On my 'new' 2014, I'm going to find the best damn coil wires on earth, even if it means using msd again !

 

[FishFreak]

IMO that’s way too long to change the plugs.

Oh for SURE Johny, 140k is WAAAY too long! I've always changed 100k miles before their due date, but I bought this Raptor with 133k miles, so it's only been 7k for me and it ran great in that time.

a few decades ago I changed my '100k mi platinum' Chevy 5.7 plugs right about 95k miles, and boy were those suckers WORN OUT!! Learned my lesson, NEVER again, will I listen to spark plug marketing hype! And now I'll never reinstall Motorcraft plugs. It can't be a coincidence that 3 broke, in a place where they shouldn't. So in my 'new to me' 2014 with only 7k miles, I'm thinkin' of changing the plugs to the proper ruthenium NGK's right now, and I can see firsthand how they last over the next 50k miles.