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Just make sure you use a conductive anti seize, like copper. Don’t use nickel anti seizeAnti seize is not recommended for spark plugs, you want the plug to have a solid connection to the block as it is the ground the spark plug needs to work properly.
we are ralking spark plugs here. not búttplugsI change my plugs every 5k miles.
I get that, but in this case it's impossible, because I discovered all the broken plugs just when I tried removing the plug wire. I'm friends with the original owner and he said he's never changed the plugs so those were OEM ford from day 1.It's very possible those broke during removal if you used a spark plug socket with a rubber insert. The insert can side load the spark plug and break the porcelain and/or the electrode.
Wrong forum. What I get for having multiple tabs going.we are ralking spark plugs here. not búttplugs
Not too sure why you're saying this? I've used rubber insert plug sockets for 45+ years and many of that racing motocross several times a week, without ever, not even once, breaking a plug. One hand firmly holds the socket and ratchet hand centered and stationary, the other applies said torque spec. It's not the fiddle, but the fiddler. If this is chronic, then others would have this issue. Who else here besides letsgetthisdone have chronically broken spark plugs 'due to the rubber insert spark plug socket'Can't really zoom in on laptop screen.
Also said and/or, I've definetly had the electrode break and not the porcelain a couple times. Doesn't makes sense because the porcelain is more brittle, but it happened.
This is also why you should not torque new plugs with a rubber insert plug socket, you can break them.