Suspension mods for off-roading near payload capacity

[Bracamonte]

Advice on simplest mods needed on suspension for off-roading in mountains with near payload capacity?

Will be using my Raptor for off-roading in remote areas of mountains and will be filling up the bed with camping/overland gear. I bought the truck with the idea of doing the least amount to it to be off-road capable, but I realize loading it to capacity might make it sag.

I'm not looking for a huge lift or anything to necessarily look aesthetically intimidating, just want it to be sturdy enough to take the logs/rocks/bumpy trail abuse with weight.

I'm not that knowledgable about truck suspensions. Any pics to go with advice would be great, especially if they are pics of your truck.

 

[GordoJay]

I regularly carry 1000lb payloads and go off road. As long as I have the bulk of the weight low and forward, things are good. Handling is mildly compromised. I’m not flying off jumps or rampaging through corners, but I can leave my buddies in the dust at will and I haven’t de arched my springs. It works great for moderate crawling with that weight, too. If it sags past level, you’ll need to move weight forward. I put the coolers and the water on the floor in the back seat and the heavier gear in the front of the bed. The back of the bed behind the axle gets light stuff like sleeping bags.

Edit to add: This thread is relevant. In post #46 I load my stuff and measure what happens. https://www.fordraptorforum.com/threads/math-behind-overlanding-exceed-truck-weight-limit.76259/

I was originally planning to go with Deavers and Eibachs but delayed because I couldn't get good numbers on whether I wanted +3HD or +4HD Deavers. +4HD turned out to be the one. In the end I decided to leave it stock until I ran into limitations or broke something. So far, so good.

 

[John M BUNMAN]

This is my EDC, every day carry. Not sure of the weight, but it’s Not Light. I added a leaf in the back, mainly for the Winnebago. I rock crawl, Sand, Snow 100mph across Death Valley in the Sand and no problems. Other than the add a leaf it’s stock.

 

[Bracamonte]

GTG. Both posts are helpful. Thanks guys.

 

[wweaver]

+4 HD Deavers and Eibachs buy once cry once. Had three different setups I like this one the best for 1000/800ish pounds Total including me.

 

[John M BUNMAN]

+4 HD Deavers and Eibachs buy once cry once. Had three different setups I like this one the best for 1000/800ish pounds Total including me.

I might have to go this way, I carry to much shit because I fly solo.
Can you explain the Eibachs to me in simpleton terms. Is it just a replacement spring for factory ones, you did the rear only correct? And finally I have the 150k ESP will it effect that and give them a reason to deny claims? Thank you in advance

 

[Bracamonte]

I might have to go this way, I carry to much shit because I fly solo.
Can you explain the Eibachs to me in simpleton terms. Is it just a replacement spring for factory ones, you did the rear only correct? And finally I have the 150k ESP will it effect that and give them a reason to deny claims? Thank u you oh in advance

I’ll 2nd that, if you can explain the Eibachs. Just rear, or front work too? Cost?

 

[wweaver]

For the Eibachs ($250 ish dollars) you remove/swap the factory spring but keep the factory shocks. They raise the front about 1 3/4 inch. The front shocks have to be taken off the truck do this. If you don’t have the skills or tools a shop will do it for about $400/500ish. Get an alignment after of course.
The rear Deaver +4HD springs $1450 ish, is simplistic but you need a buddy really. Front spring bolt on Driver, gas tank side, has to be cut off. You also need the frame brace bump stop kit from SVC or Stage 2 RPG, prices vary I have the RPG with the 1inch pads on the bumps for the higher springs. The brake line mounts have to be ground off and rewelded for the strike plates to fit right. Not that big deal. The rear can be done with The right hand tools and sweat, front is best to have a shop do it if your questioning it at all.
pics truck has about 700/800 pounds in it.

 

[JAndreF321]

All the suspension stuff really adds up. $250 Eibach, $1500 Leaf Packs, $1800 Bump stop kit, $800-1000 install, $150 alignment, $150 live valve adaptation reset, freight shipping ($200-500) = $5kish.

I went with Eibachs ($250), Icon option 3 ($1500), Forged Offroad Bumpstop Pads ($175), Timbren ABS Bumpstops ($250), alignment ($150), Ride height adaptation ($150) = $2,475.

I installed them myself and I thought I was going to crush my chest while getting the leaf springs into place, but it worked out. They are also making a forscan option to reset your ride height so you don't have to go to Ford. If you don't want to do the front Eibachs then you could always leave them stock and do +3 Deaver HD or Icon Option 2. The Icons come with the stuff to swap the suspension however you want, but if you make a change and need to adjust it again then you will need to buy new hardware. With the Eibachs and Option 3 Icons I'm at 42" front, 43.25" rear with 600lbs in the back.




I originally did Option 2 on the Icons, but had negative rake and some sway when fully loaded with supplies, wife, and pups. I haven't gone camping since I swapped to option 3 but it already holds the weight so much better and flatter in the corners. If/when I get the money I'll probably get a full bumpstop system, but it's not necessary and I have other mods ahead of them in priority like a torque arm and rock sliders.

 

[pbtjrlmrt]

GTG. Both posts are helpful. Thanks guys.

Don't listen to the sheeple that suggest Deaver/Eibach. Do yourself a HUGE favor and don't listen to anyone on this forum about suspension for anything other than brand. Call Deaver or Icon directly and ask to speak to a tech. Your suspension is personal and your use case is specific to you. ANYONE who comes out of the gate and tells you to go Deaver +3/+3 SD/HD Geiser is full of crap. I'm sure it worked fine for them but it may be completely terrible for you. If you do Geiser/Deaver to level the truck you will have an even harder time carrying a load without sag unless you stiffen the rear beyond reason. When I spoke to Deaver about my setup I wound up with a custom spring pack that cost less than the pre packaged stuff they offer. Call them and discuss all of your use cases and be realistic about your expectations then take their suggestion and perhaps cross check it with a local suspension shop. It really pays to do your homework. Suspension is one of the most personal mods you'll do to your rig and it pays to get it right the first time because having to redo it will be frustrating. Very few people on this forum understand suspensions...there are a few but you have no idea which one's you can trust. Call Deaver or Icon or both directly and go from there.