Suspension mods for off-roading near payload capacity

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

FordTechOne

FRF Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2019
Posts
6,665
Reaction score
13,044
Location
Detroit
I might have to go this way, I carry to much shit because I fly solo.
Can you explain the Eibachs to me in simpleton terms. Is it just a replacement spring for factory ones, you did the rear only correct? And finally I have the 150k ESP will it effect that and give them a reason to deny claims? Thank you in advance

Any concerns related to the modifications would not be covered. Raising the ride height changes the suspension geometry and driveline angles. So issues with CV axles, ball joints, front differential, tie rod ends, steering gear, etc would not be warrantable if the issue is attributable to the increase in ride height.
 

John M BUNMAN

BUNMAN-Adventures, Rescue & Recovery
Joined
Sep 5, 2020
Posts
7,293
Reaction score
39,032
Location
Las Vegas NV
All the suspension stuff really adds up. $250 Eibach, $1500 Leaf Packs, $1800 Bump stop kit, $800-1000 install, $150 alignment, $150 live valve adaptation reset, freight shipping ($200-500) = $5kish.
Great Set up :)
I went with Eibachs ($250), Icon option 3 ($1500), Forged Offroad Bumpstop Pads ($175), Timbren ABS Bumpstops ($250), alignment ($150), Ride height adaptation ($150) = $2,475.

I installed them myself and I thought I was going to crush my chest while getting the leaf springs into place, but it worked out. They are also making a forscan option to reset your ride height so you don't have to go to Ford. If you don't want to do the front Eibachs then you could always leave them stock and do +3 Deaver HD or Icon Option 2. The Icons come with the stuff to swap the suspension however you want, but if you make a change and need to adjust it again then you will need to buy new hardware. With the Eibachs and Option 3 Icons I'm at 42" front, 43.25" rear with 600lbs in the back.
51121635283_227af4d8e8_c.jpg
51122518480_688017cd83_c.jpg
51121157652_4ea6550822_c.jpg

I originally did Option 2 on the Icons, but had negative rake and some sway when fully loaded with supplies, wife, and pups. I haven't gone camping since I swapped to option 3 but it already holds the weight so much better and flatter in the corners. If/when I get the money I'll probably get a full bumpstop system, but it's not necessary and I have other mods ahead of them in priority like a torque arm and rock sliders.
 

John M BUNMAN

BUNMAN-Adventures, Rescue & Recovery
Joined
Sep 5, 2020
Posts
7,293
Reaction score
39,032
Location
Las Vegas NV
Any concerns related to the modifications would not be covered. Raising the ride height changes the suspension geometry and driveline angles. So issues with CV axles, ball joints, front differential, tie rod ends, steering gear, etc would not be warrantable if the issue is attributable to the increase in ride height.
:( that’s what I figured. That’s why I try to leave it stock. It was all I could do to get ESP.
Thank You Sir.
 

John M BUNMAN

BUNMAN-Adventures, Rescue & Recovery
Joined
Sep 5, 2020
Posts
7,293
Reaction score
39,032
Location
Las Vegas NV
Don't listen to the sheeple that suggest Deaver/Eibach. Do yourself a HUGE favor and don't listen to anyone on this forum about suspension for anything other than brand. Call Deaver or Icon directly and ask to speak to a tech. Your suspension is personal and your use case is specific to you. ANYONE who comes out of the gate and tells you to go Deaver +3/+3 SD/HD Geiser is full of crap. I'm sure it worked fine for them but it may be completely terrible for you. If you do Geiser/Deaver to level the truck you will have an even harder time carrying a load without sag unless you stiffen the rear beyond reason. When I spoke to Deaver about my setup I wound up with a custom spring pack that cost less than the pre packaged stuff they offer. Call them and discuss all of your use cases and be realistic about your expectations then take their suggestion and perhaps cross check it with a local suspension shop. It really pays to do your homework. Suspension is one of the most personal mods you'll do to your rig and it pays to get it right the first time because having to redo it will be frustrating. Very few people on this forum understand suspensions...there are a few but you have no idea which one's you can trust. Call Deaver or Icon or both directly and go from there.
So Funny you should say that. I just watched a YouTube video by TFL on the Gen3. One of the designing engineers went over the Gen3-37 with the TFL guy.
One of his main points was they have spent years designing the suspension system which he says is the one of the Main Things that sets the Raptor apart from any other truck.
So I guess I’m still at, add a leaf or two but don’t touch anything else. There’s a lot of smart folks, designing and testing this truck for years and I shouldn’t F><k with it, unless I know what I’m going to do is better than all the work they put into it.
 

dixonk

HMFIC
Joined
Oct 14, 2017
Posts
960
Reaction score
1,588
Location
Oklahoma
So Funny you should say that. I just watched a YouTube video by TFL on the Gen3. One of the designing engineers went over the Gen3-37 with the TFL guy.
One of his main points was they have spent years designing the suspension system which he says is the one of the Main Things that sets the Raptor apart from any other truck.
So I guess I’m still at, add a leaf or two but don’t touch anything else. There’s a lot of smart folks, designing and testing this truck for years and I shouldn’t F><k with it, unless I know what I’m going to do is better than all the work they put into it.

They have to factor in price point and profitability. Just because it took them years to engineer it doesn’t mean it’s as good as it can be. It just means it’s good enough and meets their set price point. If they built these trucks as good as they can they would be 6 figures.

The stock leaf springs aren’t that great.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

GordoJay

FRF Addict
Joined
Feb 8, 2020
Posts
7,453
Reaction score
15,947
Location
Colorado
So I guess I’m still at, add a leaf or two but don’t touch anything else. There’s a lot of smart folks, designing and testing this truck for years and I shouldn’t F><k with it, unless I know what I’m going to do is better than all the work they put into it.

What kind of camping are you trying to do? National Forest/Park campgrounds? KOAs? Dry camping? Backpacking? What kind of conditions? Warm weather? Bugs? Rain? Are you trying to eat as well as at home or are you willing to compromise? I've gone for week long hikes with a 50lb pack, starting weight. Four people @175lb plus four packs @50lb is 900lb. You've got enough weight budget for a ginormous cooler full of beer. :) If you want to take bicycles, camp furniture, a grill, TV sets, generators, pogo sticks, firewood, charcoal, pool toys, game boys, refrigerators, washer/dryer, etc, you could just buy a cheap utility trailer to haul it in. 1000lb of crap plus 1000lb of trailer at 15% tongue weight is 300lb. With your 700lb of people, that's within your weight budget. The Raptor will pull that uphill at 80mph. There's a used one on our Craigslist right now for $400.
 

Ron Lanza

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2020
Posts
329
Reaction score
221
Location
Newnan, GA

John M BUNMAN

BUNMAN-Adventures, Rescue & Recovery
Joined
Sep 5, 2020
Posts
7,293
Reaction score
39,032
Location
Las Vegas NV
What kind of camping are you trying to do? National Forest/Park campgrounds? KOAs? Dry camping? Backpacking? What kind of conditions? Warm weather? Bugs? Rain? Are you trying to eat as well as at home or are you willing to compromise? I've gone for week long hikes with a 50lb pack, starting weight. Four people @175lb plus four packs @50lb is 900lb. You've got enough weight budget for a ginormous cooler full of beer. :) If you want to take bicycles, camp furniture, a grill, TV sets, generators, pogo sticks, firewood, charcoal, pool toys, game boys, refrigerators, washer/dryer, etc, you could just buy a cheap utility trailer to haul it in. 1000lb of crap plus 1000lb of trailer at 15% tongue weight is 300lb. With your 700lb of people, that's within your weight budget. The Raptor will pull that uphill at 80mph. There's a used one on our Craigslist right now for $400.
First, I thank everyone contributing their knowledge, expertise and personal experience. That’s exactly why I joined this Forum. The problem all you “Folks” are going to need to have a room at your house for me :) If I tell the boss I have to spend another $$$ on my $75k Raptor it could get Ugly! It’s not like when she glances in the Gun Safe and says “Is that a new gun???” I can get away with “Oh Noooo Honey, I’ve had that gun forever, I just moved things around, it was in the back!” ;) we r both public servants with Shallow Pockets, 5 kids we can’t get off the FNING Payroll and 3 grandchildren :)
#2 My wrench knowledge ended with my 79 F150. I could change the water pump fuel pump adjust the lifters etc. Now I can’t even find the fuel pump :(
#3 I am blessed to be living in a location that when I wake up I can go 50-200 miles into the desert or be stuck in snow 100 miles into the Mountains above St George. I mostly fly Solo, so I also must be able to Self-Rescue, hence I carry a lot of shit. Gordo my 50# Ruck days are pretty much over, 28 surgeries later, titanium in my back & neck. I’m happy to still be walking on the right side of the dirt. A good example of why the Raptor is superior to any of my Jeep’s. 10hrs in my Jeep’s Off-Road, I couldn’t walk the next day. The Raptors off-road and Hwy ride is incredible, so I’m trying not to F<>k that up.
#3 All that said, I think I’m loaded now at my EDC minus beer/food and a few other things that may add 50# for an extended adventure.
Right now the Rear sits 3/4” lower than the front. I’m concerned that when I drop the Winnebago, on my weight distribution hitch, it will drop the rear another 1- 11/2”
So do I add another leaf or go to a Deaver+3/+4?? Keeping in mind, I don’t know a Deaver from a Beaver....No I am well versed in “That” Beaver you perverts ;) Baaaahaaa
Thank y’all again for your help/advice.
Ps. Keep in mind, as mentioned above, I can’t F<>k my 8yr/150k ESP

43FE0892-6499-4E98-B777-553293BE51D9.jpeg

FD89ADE2-7037-4968-BE70-26B86D8E5011.jpeg

18BE7894-9D52-45F7-BF92-945496D8E73A.jpeg

EFE10AC8-5F24-47B9-92B5-A7F8F55FF8AF.jpeg

44B9FBA5-0AFA-4548-8676-538E789C4851.jpeg
 

GordoJay

FRF Addict
Joined
Feb 8, 2020
Posts
7,453
Reaction score
15,947
Location
Colorado
All that said, I think I’m loaded now at my EDC minus beer/food and a few other things that may add 50# for an extended adventure.
Right now the Rear sits 3/4” lower than the front. I’m concerned that when I drop the Winnebago, on my weight distribution hitch, it will drop the rear another 1- 11/2”

You're right to be concerned. When I load mine to the load limit, it sits level, down a half inch in front and two inches in back. I weighed everything as I loaded the truck. It adds up fast. I suspect that you've already fully loaded the rear springs(assuming that the front didn't sink at all) and adding more won't be pretty. There are scales which can tell you the weight on each axle. I'd measure that and then I'd do what @pbtjrlmrt suggested and call Deaver,. Tell them what you want to do and ask their advice. It's free to ask and they'll know what works and maybe keep you from wasting money. A lot of money. If you want to add four adults and camping gear on top of a full load, that's kind of a big deal. I'd make sure that the tires are rated for that much, too.
 
Top