Strange noise and clunk at highway speeds

[PTobias]

Did the issue start after hub replacement? There a specific procedure to follow when replacing a hub or IWE.

can you direct me to the procedure? I basically just disassembled, reassembled, torqued and left it at that.

I did not change the vacuum hub side

The issue started about a month after I replaced the wheel hub. I did not replace the IWE at the same time, but based on one of the responses, started researching IWE issues. and found folks describing "playing cards in a bicycle wheel" and that is a better description than my paper crumpling reference.

I've just ordered an IWE solenoid and check valve from AMAZON cheap and easy

It may be likely that the vacuum hub it's self is no good due to heat/etc. when the wheel bearing failed. I had to drive on it for 6 weeks while ford tried to locate one - eventually gave up and ordered from Amazon

 

[FordTechOne]

can you direct me to the procedure? I basically just disassembled, reassembled, torqued and left it at that.

I did not change the vacuum hub side

The issue started about a month after I replaced the wheel hub. I did not replace the IWE at the same time, but based on one of the responses, started researching IWE issues. and found folks describing "playing cards in a bicycle wheel" and that is a better description than my paper crumpling reference.

I've just ordered an IWE solenoid and check valve from AMAZON cheap and easy

It may be likely that the vacuum hub it's self is no good due to heat/etc. when the wheel bearing failed. I had to drive on it for 6 weeks while ford tried to locate one - eventually gave up and ordered from Amazon

The IWE needs to be compressed with a vacuum pump at 24 in-hg before the hub is installed into the knuckle. Then the depth of the axle needs to be verified to ensure the splines are fully engaged. The axle stub should protrude 15.5mm from the center of the hub. Axle nut torque is 30 lb-ft.

 

[PTobias]

OK, very frustrated here.

I have vacuum to the solenoid

the lines to the IWE hubs hold vacuum

It appears the the check valve is good

i have now tried 3 different solenoids, and when i put the truck in 2WD, i don't get any vacuum to the IWE hub lines, no clicking in the solenoids, nothing

I've measure the voltage at the Solenoid connector in both 2WD and 4WD, but don't know what i should be getting in either state,

any guidance here would be appreciated

 

[FordTechOne]

OK, very frustrated here.

I have vacuum to the solenoid

the lines to the IWE hubs hold vacuum

It appears the the check valve is good

i have now tried 3 different solenoids, and when i put the truck in 2WD, i don't get any vacuum to the IWE hub lines, no clicking in the solenoids, nothing

I've measure the voltage at the Solenoid connector in both 2WD and 4WD, but don't know what i should be getting in either state,

any guidance here would be appreciated

If your truck has the latest TCCM calibration, the IWEs will remain engaged until the vehicle warms up. Therefore, there will be no voltage supplied to the IWE solenoid on a cold start.

 

[PTobias]

noted,

I'll make sure it's good and warm and re-test

do you know what voltage i should see on the leads when it is warmed up and in 4WD vs 2WD mode

 

[FordTechOne]

noted,

I'll make sure it's good and warm and re-test

do you know what voltage i should see on the leads when it is warmed up and in 4WD vs 2WD mode

The solenoid receives 12V power (hot at all times) from the BJB, and the TCCM then provides the ground to activate the solenoid and disengage the IWEs. You shouldn’t have any voltage reading between the two pins at idle in Park, since the TCCM will not activate the solenoid until the vehicle is in gear and moving. To see if the system is working, your best bet would be to install a vacuum gauge at the solenoid output side and monitor the reading while driving.

 

[PTobias]

Update,

With FordTechOne's guidance, using one of the new Solenoids, i rigged up a vacuum gauge and just as he predicted, drove around in 2WD for about quarter mile, and ****, vacuum came up. Switched to 4A and vacuum went away. Switched back to 2WD and the vacuum came back up.

Thanks for all the help everyone.

 

[WillieFlo]

Update,

With FordTechOne's guidance, using one of the new Solenoids, i rigged up a vacuum gauge and just as he predicted, drove around in 2WD for about quarter mile, and ****, vacuum came up. Switched to 4A and vacuum went away. Switched back to 2WD and the vacuum came back up.

Thanks for all the help everyone.

PTobias, did all your issues go away? I just started experiencing the same exact sounds happening to my truck about 2 weeks ago. However, I replaced my hubs about 15,000 miles ago.
Check out my thread and it sounds very similar to what you were experiencing
https://www.fordraptorforum.com/thr...buffeting-highway-speeds.100178/#post-1965993

 

[WillieFlo]

PTobias, did all your issues go away? I just started experiencing the same exact sounds happening to my truck about 2 weeks ago. However, I replaced my hubs about 15,000 miles ago.
Check out my thread and it sounds very similar to what you were experiencing
https://www.fordraptorforum.com/thr...buffeting-highway-speeds.100178/#post-1965993

UPDATE: changed the IWE check valve assy this evening, and it seems as though my issue is fixed. Thanks for the info everyone.

 

[PTobias]

@WillieFlo , apologies, i'm just seeing this. Looks like you got your issue fixed with the IWE check valve so Cheers!