SPD 170 Thermostat install today

[nikhsub1]

And today's cars/trucks running on the warm side is more about emissions than it is about 'running warmer is better'. Don't forget that good people.

 

[John Rathjen]

When I ordered my trans cooler from Mishimoto, I got their t-stat, but it’s a 160. Any issues with that? I would think it’ll just open up a minute sooner

 

[onthebrake]

When I ordered my trans cooler from Mishimoto, I got their t-stat, but it’s a 160. Any issues with that? I would think it’ll just open up a minute sooner

What part of the country are you in ?

 

[John Rathjen]

SoCal

 

[onthebrake]

160 seems low to me. Raptors come with a 195 F thermostat stock. I went 170 F but I'm sure 180 is ok too.

 

[zombiekiller]

When I ordered my trans cooler from Mishimoto, I got their t-stat, but it’s a 160. Any issues with that? I would think it’ll just open up a minute sooner

I'm not a huge fan of the 160s. "operating temp" for most new Ford vehicles is 180 degrees. In some cases, the PCM actually pulls power until this temp is reached. 10 degrees isnt really an issue, 20 degrees difference means that you have to be pushing a fair amount of heat to get from 160 when the tstat opens to 180 when you're seeing full power.

someone else may have a different opinion though.

Full disclosure, I've never tested a 160, so maybe I'm making something out of nothing.

 

[zemuron99]

Cross-posted in another thread, but putting it up here just to increase the number of eyeballs that see it:

Well, I (tried) installing my SPD t'stat today. Man that drivers' side bolt is a PITA. Didn't use a deep socket (my smallest 3/8 drive is 9mm) so had to use a long-handled 3/8 w/a universal joint on the end to get it loose enough to turn by hand. Don't ask how much fun that was. Anyway, put the new t'stat in, buttoned everything up (after remembering I have a 1/4" drive set that has an 8mm deep to do the drivers' side), fill the coolant bottle...and hear the waterfall. *&^%$#@!. Housing is leaking, looks like from the bottom, obviously I've not got the t'stat aligned properly, and the 3mm added length caused it. (Yes, I have the o-ring on, and yes I have the brass spring side in the block, so that's not the issue). Pissed out roughly half a gallon of my coolant concentrate, but that's a secondary concern, I still have a half-gallon left. Took it all apart, the O-ring looks okay, no pinched sections or break in it, so if I get it all together correctly it should work ok...right?

BIG question: Hints and tricks to get it back together properly aligned from those that have done it? I saw one thread where the member replaced the stock bolts w/some threaded studs and nuts on those, and used those as the guide to getting the housing back, but c'mon there has to be a way to do it w/the stock bolts. So help a brother out here, and give me your best trick for getting it all lined up and back together!

 

[onthebrake]

Cross-posted in another thread, but putting it up here just to increase the number of eyeballs that see it:

Well, I (tried) installing my SPD t'stat today. Man that drivers' side bolt is a PITA. Didn't use a deep socket (my smallest 3/8 drive is 9mm) so had to use a long-handled 3/8 w/a universal joint on the end to get it loose enough to turn by hand. Don't ask how much fun that was. Anyway, put the new t'stat in, buttoned everything up (after remembering I have a 1/4" drive set that has an 8mm deep to do the drivers' side), fill the coolant bottle...and hear the waterfall. *&^%$#@!. Housing is leaking, looks like from the bottom, obviously I've not got the t'stat aligned properly, and the 3mm added length caused it. (Yes, I have the o-ring on, and yes I have the brass spring side in the block, so that's not the issue). Pissed out roughly half a gallon of my coolant concentrate, but that's a secondary concern, I still have a half-gallon left. Took it all apart, the O-ring looks okay, no pinched sections or break in it, so if I get it all together correctly it should work ok...right?

BIG question: Hints and tricks to get it back together properly aligned from those that have done it? I saw one thread where the member replaced the stock bolts w/some threaded studs and nuts on those, and used those as the guide to getting the housing back, but c'mon there has to be a way to do it w/the stock bolts. So help a brother out here, and give me your best trick for getting it all lined up and back together!

The same thing happened to me when I installed the SPD 170 T-Stat. I put everything back together and started to fill it back up and it went everywhere. I had to pull it all apart again. The o-ring they give you with the thermostat is not the right size. You have to reuse the stock o-ring. At least that was my case with my '17. Not a leak since.

 

[zemuron99]

The same thing happened to me when I installed the SPD 170 T-Stat. I put everything back together and started to fill it back up and it went everywhere. I had to pull it all apart again. The o-ring they give you with the thermostat is not the right size. You have to reuse the stock o-ring. At least that was my case with my '17. Not a leak since.

Mine didn't even have an o-ring, I re-used the stock one, hopefully a fresh attack on it today will give better results. Appreciate the reply though!

 

[onthebrake]

Mine didn't even have an o-ring, I re-used the stock one, hopefully a fresh attack on it today will give better results. Appreciate the reply though!

Oh jeez I didn't realize you were already using the stock o-ring. It is a pain getting it back on. Make sure there is no debris in the mating surfaces when you tighten it back down and slowly, evenly, tighten all the fasteners going around the housing so they all tighten down evenly and straight. Like tightening up cam shafts on a motor. Hope that makes sense.