SnoBall 500, as seen by "The Puzzler" truck #30

[AdkRaptor150]

Awesome video- next year I gotta make this.

 

[wiz1500]

Although super cool, seems like a lot of work for a hand brake. I feel like this should be a lot easier though, like a reflash, or a "dumber" abs solenoid. Maybe find one from an older truck? The late 90's ones didnt really do anything, and they look similiar, I have no idea of something like that would even work.

Obvioulsy i am just guessing here, but this seems like its getting very complicated, and complicated lends to issues down the road.

Nothing good happens with out hard work..
We are actually talking about 2 different cool things here...The T.C. ABS work around will be usable to anybody that wants to shut the systems down "COMPLETELY" and still have a working E-Locker at all speeds regardless of wheel engagement. I have all ready run the truck with the systems disabled (no E locker) for many miles..I know all to well what you mean about things getting complicated and then having issues later...I take all mod's to heart and spend to much time looking at the "what if's" and testing.. So far most mods I have deemed not except-able have not made it on to the truck..I can point out my remote batt. box... The mount was made but when put in the truck I seen possible problems with it's location. Even though it sat even with the frame I just seen it being ripped off on the trail...

The battery's now sit in the nose of the truck not under it..
I do understand the some people don't get the "Hand brake thing".
So here is the deal.. It is not about show boating at all... It is to help the truck rotate and help set the point of rotational inertia. As most of us have seen these trucks like to push into a turn. There are lots of things that cause this (another thread) but the point is when trail braking in to a corner the truck becomes very unhappy when you have to stab the brake peddle so the front "sets".. By initiating a "Scandinavine Flick" when first coming in to a turn the truck is a lot smoother and feels more controlled back to me...
These is why I have gone this route..It's about comfort and feel for my driving style..
My build follows 2 trains of thought..
K.I.S.S.
Keep It Simply Stupid ...
And
3 F's
Form Follows Function.....
She might not be a show winner but it is fast and fun....It dose look good from 10" away..LMAO
Anyway I do appreciate your feed back Jim.

I asked a few friends about shutting things off. Now since the system talks to all the different modules you need to somehow fake a signal to them all ...

You (your friends) are absolutly correct. All systems become disabled with this...Hill desent, Off road mode and all the rest are gone... BUT from my testing so far I have managed to keep critical (to me) systems on line..
Full function of the Transfer Case, Trans and all engine management is still on line..I.E. the truck has not gone into limp mode and all rev limiters and speed limiters are still correct..
The only system I need to work out is the rear diff. as stated before..
I have to careful here as the electro mag in the diff. doesn't want to see 100% duty cycling after initail engagement and I don't like back feeding in to a system that has been shut down...So I need complete separation when I over ride the control module...
Please stay in this loop with me. your opinion and expertes is appreciated.
Thanks John

You can only have so many dummies in the loop.. Lol
-Greg (aka squatting dog)

LMAO No shit..... To many cooks spoil the chilly ....lol

 

[Hockster]

You (your friends) are absolutly correct. All systems become disabled with this...Hill desent, Off road mode and all the rest are gone... BUT from my testing so far I have managed to keep critical (to me) systems on line..
Full function of the Transfer Case, Trans and all engine management is still on line..I.E. the truck has not gone into limp mode and all rev limiters and speed limiters are still correct..
The only system I need to work out is the rear diff. as stated before..
I have to careful here as the electro mag in the diff. doesn't want to see 100% duty cycling after initail engagement and I don't like back feeding in to a system that has been shut down...So I need complete separation when I over ride the control module...
Please stay in this loop with me. your opinion and expertes is appreciated.
Thanks John

If only I was still up there...

 

[Wilson]

well I actually am a dummy but like to think I have some good points or thoughts or I can stand in the corner and drink beer like crazy. ok that is my only expertise and I don't do that any more so I'm just a dummy.

---------- Post added at 07:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:03 PM ----------

is it a cable break? and would it work to just put two calipers on one disk?

 

[Squatting Dog]

Thank you Keith (wiz) these mods might not be for everyone, but everyone benefits from your work.

-Greg (aka squatting dog)

 

[wiz1500]

well I actually am a dummy but like to think I have some good points or thoughts or I can stand in the corner and drink beer like crazy. ok that is my only expertise and I don't do that any more so I'm just a dummy.

---------- Post added at 07:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:03 PM ----------

is it a cable break? and would it work to just put two calipers on one disk?

There are no dumby's on here Wilson.. Some times the most obvious solutions come from someone on the out side looking in..
Case in point.
My co-dog and O.P. of this thread came up with the greatest plan for me during our time together..
For months now I'v been bitching about the fact my entire build has been in the driveway..My garage is so full of equipment that I can't pull a car in let alone the truck.
So during our time together I had mentioned that my neighbor had recently passed away and the house was empty. I also mentioned that we were helping the family clean the house and take care of the place for them.. I even mentioned that the family brought over a gift certificate to a restaurant as an appreciation.
Blue saz why don't you ask to pull your truck in over there and work on it?
I looked at him with disbelief and amazement........ I couldn't believe I didn't come up with this .
Needless to say I know have a nice cozy garage to work on my truck for the winter....

The system is tyed into the factory brake lines... This might be changed and a second set of calipers will be put on the truck. More testing is needed..
The problem is the truck "HAS" to be trail braked into a corner for the handle to work. What it does is amplify brake PSI to the rear but the down side is PSI has to be established so there is something to amplify.. I.E. you need to be on the brakes.. This is some times not the quickest way around the corner. Radius, speed, camber all come into play....
Thanks for asking...

 

[Wilson]

do you have the trailer break on your truck? hint hint if you do hook it up to that and you can control the amount of pressure you want.

 

[wiz1500]

No My truck was ordered by me with no options but the 6.2 and the L.P. (it's a "10").
The trailer brake is electric different deal ..

 

[All The Way]

Not sure if this was brought up, have you tried using the e-brake system?
Cable driven and separate from the ABS.

 

[Wilson]

I thought you could hook up the 6 pin to the extra calipers and make it work. would it matter if it's electric? I know if you pull the slider nob it will lock up the wheels on a trailer. If you hook one up you could just put your stick onto the trailer module, put it down by your seat you should be able to use that. ? have you ever used a trailer hook up? basically it's to run an extra set of breaks.

---------- Post added at 09:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:08 PM ----------

if I'm bothering you just tell me.