Shakin' while Brakin'

[dleclerc27]

Ok....The rotor is held in place with the lug nuts. and is sandwiched between the hub and the wheel. An uneven surface on the wheel, front if the rotor, back of the rotor, or the spinal all being held by the lug nuts. Can cause the rotor to warp, once they are warped there is nothing you can do except replace them. make sure all your surfaces are clean and true.
I didn't want you to think you clean up the back of the wheel and it will go way. LOL that is not the case.

Haha, thank you for the clarity. I knew the brake setup well enough but that you were inferring that gunk could've pooled somewhere and unbalanced it somehow. It happened to my sister's Audi when she got snow stuck between a few spokes of the rim and it was enough to make her car shudder. Thanks again for the guidance!

 

[Beinkounter]

I make it a habit to always change the rotors along with the pads. It's only a couple of hundred bucks extra but saves you from a whole lot of trouble down the road.

 

[dleclerc27]

I make it a habit to always change the rotors along with the pads. It's only a couple of hundred bucks extra but saves you from a whole lot of trouble down the road.

Thanks! Have you had specific ones you like? Looks like I'm about to be in the market!

 

[Beinkounter]

Thanks! Have you had specific ones you like? Looks like I'm about to be in the market!

Here is the long answer. My truck has 55k miles on it. I recently decided to change the front brakes myself at 55k, and to my surprise the stock pads had at least 40% left in them and the rotors were flawless. I could have gotten easily another 20k miles out of these stock pads and probably 100k miles out of the rotors. I was honestly impressed with the OEM quality. For a truck this heavy to have the pads last this long was impressive. Wife has a range rover full size and the brake pads on those barely last 20k miles. Same with my GMC yukon, they never last more than 25k miles. So I changed both the pads and rotors and went with OEM. I heard other members talk about Power Stop being a good brand, but based on the mileage I got out of the OEM brakes, they appear to be very high quality.

 

[scpete24]

Went through everything you are describing and just replaced pads and rotors with the powerstop kit. Shakes all went away. I wont try to track down or question the issue again I'll just replace rotors and pads. Easy peasy couple hours and some beers in the driveway

 

[dleclerc27]

Went through everything you are describing and just replaced pads and rotors with the powerstop kit. Shakes all went away. I wont try to track down or question the issue again I'll just replace rotors and pads. Easy peasy couple hours and some beers in the driveway

Most excellent! I just ordered the powerstop rotors today and I will report back! Glad you got your issue sorted and more glad that you cranked brewskis. Thanks for the input!

 

[scpete24]

Good luck, easy job just might want to hit the caliper bolts with some PB blaster a couple days before you plan to tackle the job. Those bolts are TIGHT. Replace all the rubber boots/seals on the guide rails and pack them with grease. I used more grease than what was supplied. Torque everything down to spec's, should be good to go.

 

[EricM]

Aftermarket wheels (no cutouts around lug) with the factory rotor retainer? I've seen it...

 

[dleclerc27]

Long overdue, butttt - replaced the front rotors with Power Stop AR85108EVC (currently on sale on Amazon for ~$50 less than I paid when I got them a month or so ago), and that solved the issues after a nice bedding and some testing. Of note, though I’m likely preaching to the choir - PB Blaster worked well, but it ended up being a 10lb sledge in tandem with PB that solved what a few hammers and a deadblow could not in several attempts. Interestingly, a wheel stud came loose (or was loose) in the process, despite making no direct contact with it. I’m shocked that modern rotors would warp like that, but here we are. Solved. Thank you all for your time, tutelage, and thoughtfulness.

 

[Jeff Oldham]

yep, take the clips off the studs, but if that caused a vibration it would also cause a vibration while driving.