SCARY "almost" no start...

[MTF]

I never did the fuse #27 relocation; I simply changed the micro fuse to the mini 12 years ago.
The micro fuse is too narrow to properly seat in the fuse holder prongs, that's why it overheats and melts.

 

[rschap1]

Hoping to get the fuse relocated tonight or over the weekend.
I cracked open the fuse box a couple nights ago and have seen just about everything I need to do, I think.
Planning to use a low temp solder shrink connector rather than trying to get at it with a soldering iron.
I have a compact heat gun/soldering iron that uses butane.
Pretty small end with a wrap around heat deflector that works good on the low temp connectors and should not have to worry about anything close by.
I have not seen anything in any instructions as far as removing much of the old original #27 stuff.
Just clip the red/blue that you run to #70 and leave the rest of old #27 in place.
Remove the old original fuse?
Anyone do anything beyond just setting up the new (#70)?
Wouldn't imagine any harm or anything by just leaving the remaining original in place, but wondered what everyone has done, or if I am missing anything?
Try to keep similar to what is common, rather than doing something that would be different.
Earlier comments about not surprising a future owner or indulging my inner MacGyver comes to mind

 

[xtela]

Instructions say to remove fuse 27 from the holder. Also to place heat shrink around the cut off end that goes to fuse 27 holder. You should be able to pull the red/blue out of the way and solder and heat shrink to the wire provided in the kit. Use a piece of aluminum foil to protect other wiring. Before you cut make certain that the red/blue wire goes to fuse 27 in the holder.

 

[WNCHSTR96]

I’m not sure it’s the same thing or if you have replaced your key, but sometimes when I turn the key I get the no crank. It’s been doing for so many years now that I’m completely use to it. A couple of things to note about it for me. 1 it always cranks by the third try and 2 if it no cranks and I take the key out and flip it it will crank. I’m sure it’s some kind of security chip thing, but like I have said, it’s very random and not really a big deal for me. Also, I have had my fuse 27 kit in my truck behind the back seat since 2019ish because I’m scared to death I’ll screw it up. Of course @Gumby said he would help if I needed it I just haven’t taken him up on it. Perhaps when I’m on the side of the road with a burned out fuse, I’ll do it. (I know not funny but I’m over 265k so what’s a little more mileage going to hurt?)

 

[rschap1]

Appreciate both of those.
I will shrink the cut wire and remove fuse #27.

Thanks for the tip on the key.
When it wouldn't start, it sure seemed like a security issue or something along those lines.
It would crank but not fire at all.
I would have expected at least a gasp or one or two fires from fuel in lines, manifolds, ports, or residual vapors...there was none of that. Guessing crank but no spark.
I do think it was two twists of the ignition, then I got out with key and looked at fuse box.
Back in truck re-inserted key (no idea if same orientation or flipped 180 degrees) and all was good again... HHMMM

 

[ThirtyAughtTex]

I don't have experience with this specific issue, but I have seen some wierd shit happen when the capless fuel systems are messed with even while the vehicle is off. I remember when first getting our old Escape my wife was intrigued by the fuel flap and poked at it while the engine was off. The car didn't like that shit and threw a CEL on next start.

 

[rschap1]

Had thoughts about that since I did open and close the fuel door while washing it...

 

[WNCHSTR96]

Appreciate both of those.
I will shrink the cut wire and remove fuse #27.

Thanks for the tip on the key.
When it wouldn't start, it sure seemed like a security issue or something along those lines.
It would crank but not fire at all.
I would have expected at least a gasp or one or two fires from fuel in lines, manifolds, ports, or residual vapors...there was none of that. Guessing crank but no spark.
I do think it was two twists of the ignition, then I got out with key and looked at fuse box.
Back in truck re-inserted key (no idea if same orientation or flipped 180 degrees) and all was good again... HHMMM

I’m still leaning on your fuse 27 because yours cranked over. The key issue will give you a no crank at all. My understanding is the fuel inlet will also cause it to shut off at idle. Cleaning the fuel inlet flapper valve usually will correct it for a while. I use some Lucas fuel conditioner and that little funnel for manual refueling. Just work it in and out like a teenager who doesn’t know what he’s doing, lol!

 

[Meat2022]

Only crank issue I ever have randomly out of the blue ...remote start....crank sound then nothing.... no idea why this happens but that's literally the only issue I've ever had cranking my truck....odd for sure.. maybe fuse 27.....no idea on the fuel flap....I put a bottle of fuel treatment in with a funnel about every 10k miles..sometimes every other fill up....no issues ever using a funnel...let us know if you figure it out

 

[rschap1]

I did try using the remote start after twice not starting with key.
It just cranked and no fire also.
Plans are to do the fuse relocation today or tomorrow.
After seeing the discoloring on the little fuse leg, I am guessing/hoping that was it.
Hasn't been an issue again yet.
We'll see soon.