Replace OEM sub with kicker?

[The Car Stereo Company]

i think its red and white. a simple way to check is to use a 9v battery and test them

 

[K223]

I have that, but the colors r different at the speaker itself .

what are you using the stock enclosure with a kicker driver? If so don’t use the factory wiring on the enclosure and run your own pair(s) of wire from the amp to the sub.

 

[greatone99]

im wrapping it and changing the woofer ,just to scrap it . phase 1 tweeters r in the pillars ,front door speakers r done ,need to sound deaden the doors . its just for the time being while I build the system on the rack ,run tweeter wires and power ground ,and pick and under the rear seat box and subs .the last thing to go into the truck will be the rack all wired up ,I want to do the change over in one day .I ordered a rack ,and the speaker wire adapter by pac for all the speaker wires by the b and o .next I need to pick an amp ,leaning towards a JL AUDIO 5 CHANNEL

 

[K223]

im wrapping it and changing the woofer ,just to scrap it . phase 1 tweeters r in the pillars ,front door speakers r done ,need to sound deaden the doors . its just for the time being while I build the system on the rack ,run tweeter wires and power ground ,and pick and under the rear seat box and subs .the last thing to go into the truck will be the rack all wired up ,I want to do the change over in one day .I ordered a rack ,and the speaker wire adapter by pac for all the speaker wires by the b and o .next I need to pick an amp ,leaning towards a JL AUDIO 5 CHANNEL

Cool! I’m just running this worked over factory sub for a little while myself. Curious to hear what sub you choose. I almost and should have just purchased the JL single 10 compact for under the seat. But held off. If I was going to do the whole system now, I would mostly likely get the JL RD900/5.

 

[JoeTSI]

Where are you guys pulling signal for the tweeters since the B&O amp harness doesn't contain that signal? Are you pulling speaker level inputs from the tweeters and THEN running new wire from the amp to the tweeter location?

 

[greatone99]

yes new wires need to be run amp to tweeters

 

[JoeTSI]

yes new wires need to be run amp to tweeters

Yes, I knew that. Where are you getting the signal for the tweeters? If you look at the B&O amp pinout, there is not output since it is coming from the headunit amp.

 

[greatone99]

I believe the get tied in the the output of the front channel 1 and 2 as the front channel is a component setup ,then to a crossover .then to the tweeter and mid bass speaker.so the signal for channel 1 and 2 is also for the tweeters

 

[goblues38]

Perhaps incorporating an $99 LC2i would solve that bass roll off problem.

Accubass.....gross (why would you did a processed high level input when a full digital source os there)

the only way to di it right is with a full zen a2b install...meaning you have to buy the zen and the amp...plus what ever speakers you are doing.

 

[K223]

Accubass.....gross (why would you did a processed high level input when a full digital source os there)

the only way to di it right is with a full zen a2b install...meaning you have to buy the zen and the amp...plus what ever speakers you are doing.

Stupid but maybe not a stupid question. Can you effectively utilize a Zen to grab signal for your sub at least for the time being until you build out the rest of the system later? Yes it’s initially 500 bucks or so to grab a pure signal for the subs to start. Not the most logical way to do it. But again a start.

But I have a feeling you will need to completely unplug from the B&O amp to feed the Zen?