@MurderedOutSVT and maybe @The Car Stereo Company , though it's probably a bit of a haul for you, I found this browsing FB marketplace this morning. I realize that link won't work forever, so for those that read this in the future, it's a complete powertrain pulled from a 2014 F250, with 13k on it. Engine, Trans, T-Case, Harness, Gauges and Steering Column. Located in Bennet, NC. Oh yeah, $2,800.
Rebuilding a 6.2 Engine
- Thread starter PD1744
- Start date
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Didn’t visit my engine today but did spend time prepping the valve covers for install.
The shiny new one showed up Monday. If you order one, they come with screws/grommets, grommet for the VVT actuator, and new gasket.
Primed:
Ford Racing Blue base coat:
Cleared:
Need to order a few exhaust manifold studs and flex plate bolts. Will probably order an intake manifold as well. Getting there.
The shiny new one showed up Monday. If you order one, they come with screws/grommets, grommet for the VVT actuator, and new gasket.
Primed:
Ford Racing Blue base coat:
Cleared:
Need to order a few exhaust manifold studs and flex plate bolts. Will probably order an intake manifold as well. Getting there.
Damn somebody needs to snap this up. F250 has a transmission dipstick that's not 2" long and is easily accessible from the engine compartment?! Thanks Ford.
Gorgeous. Thinking I'll try the same on my composite covers next time I have them off, sans the clearcoat I kinda like the almost matte look there.
Spent a lot of time out there but not much progress. Doing behind the scenes stuff.
Freeze plugs knocked in:
Absolutely could not wait to see what this thing would look like with the valve covers on:
Turned the dip stick tube around and inserted a new dip stick. Installed the water pump and pulley.
Water Pump:
S1 - 177 lb-in
S2 - 60 degrees
Pulley gets 18 lb-ft
Waiting on exhaust manifold studs (18 lb-ft) so that I can install the manifolds and gaskets.
Need to put the crank pulley/damper on (129 lb-ft + 90 degrees).
I'll be ordering an intake manifold/plenum soon.
I'm at a point where first I'll have to start drawing a line on what I plan to put new on this engine and what I plan to swap over. Things like accessories, oil filter adapter and cooler, thermostat housing, alternator cradle, etc. All things that are missing on this one. Then I've got to decide what I'm actually going to do with it.
Freeze plugs knocked in:
Absolutely could not wait to see what this thing would look like with the valve covers on:
Turned the dip stick tube around and inserted a new dip stick. Installed the water pump and pulley.
Water Pump:
S1 - 177 lb-in
S2 - 60 degrees
Pulley gets 18 lb-ft
Waiting on exhaust manifold studs (18 lb-ft) so that I can install the manifolds and gaskets.
Need to put the crank pulley/damper on (129 lb-ft + 90 degrees).
I'll be ordering an intake manifold/plenum soon.
I'm at a point where first I'll have to start drawing a line on what I plan to put new on this engine and what I plan to swap over. Things like accessories, oil filter adapter and cooler, thermostat housing, alternator cradle, etc. All things that are missing on this one. Then I've got to decide what I'm actually going to do with it.
CoronaRaptor
FRF Addict
It looks like an engine for sure. I wonder if after it's complete, or what it would take for an engine shop to do a test run on the engine and break it in for you, then you would have the confidence to sell it for some good money.
At the machine shop, we discussed them doing a simulation test which really only verifies that the engine makes compression and builds oil pressure from my understanding. But he was saying, that he could do it only if he had the correct hookups to feed oil to it. So me having to figure out a way to haul it all the way back up there, however long it would take them to get it done (if they can get it done), whatever it would cost, etc. is deterring me from going this route. Alternately, I could find a shop to dyno it, but I would be faced with all of the aforementioned challenges and then some. I've not found any yet, but then again, I haven't looked too hard either.
I believe what I'll do when I get to that point is just essentially 'bench test' it with just a starter and battery set-up. I should be able to get a good idea of compression and possibly even leak down from this test. Also, plan to pre-oil everything with one of those pressurized tank set-ups. I think this should give me sufficient enough information for me to know what I've got.
Very good and showing the working organs of an combustion engine. Not gay batteries!
Installed the thermostat, o-ring, and water outlet:
New (used) intake manifold with all fresh gaskets:
Throttle body:
Harmonic balancer with fresh bolt:
Oil filter adapter and oil cooler showed up the next day. I believe that’s the last of the parts before I call this thing done. At install it’ll probably be new injectors, maybe fuel rail, plugs, coil packs etc. who knows if/when that’ll be. But for now I can focus on other things. It’s been a really fun process full of tons of learning and frustration. Happy that I chose to take it on. Would I do it again? Maybe.
New (used) intake manifold with all fresh gaskets:
Throttle body:
Harmonic balancer with fresh bolt:
Oil filter adapter and oil cooler showed up the next day. I believe that’s the last of the parts before I call this thing done. At install it’ll probably be new injectors, maybe fuel rail, plugs, coil packs etc. who knows if/when that’ll be. But for now I can focus on other things. It’s been a really fun process full of tons of learning and frustration. Happy that I chose to take it on. Would I do it again? Maybe.
MTF
FRF Addict
Are you sure about the O-ring?
There are plenty of auto parts websites that say the O-ring part number has been replace.
It could be that Ford did do something but just guessing at this point.
Most of us 6.2L guys need the thermostat ring that goes around the thermostat.
These are aftermarket Hi-Performance full 1" opening 160, 170, 180
and the stock one on the right is 195.
Ford owners parts website doesn't show it right either!!!
And some guys get away with the O-ring not leaking.
But that Thermostat Housing Gasket is what you need #8255
https://www.tascaparts.com/auto-parts/2011/ford/f-150/svt-raptor-trim/6-2l-v8-gas-engine/cooling-system-cat/cooling-system-scat
Last edited:
Are you sure about the O-ring?
There are plenty of auto parts websites that say the O-ring part number has been replace.
It could be that Ford did do something but just guessing at this point.
Most of us 6.2L guys need the thermostat ring that goes around the thermostat.
View attachment 346159
These are aftermarket Hi-Performance full 1" opening 160, 170, 180
and the stock one on the right is 195.
Ford owners parts website doesn't show it right either!!!
And some guys get away with the O-ring not leaking.
But that Thermostat Housing Gasket is what you need #8255
https://www.tascaparts.com/auto-parts/2011/ford/f-150/svt-raptor-trim/6-2l-v8-gas-engine/cooling-system-cat/cooling-system-scat
Yeah, I'm not really sure man. I looked into it and I seem to keep seeing different information. I see P/N's discontinued and superseded. Some thermostats with that gasket, some without. I'm certain I ordered Motorcraft parts. Hell, I stared at the set-up for a good bit before install trying to make sense of it. Then still installed it wrong, before coming up with a way that makes sense in my head to keep it from leaking. I'm gonna take another peak. Seems like for the price of just ordering that gasket, I can have one of those MotoRad pieces. I may go that route or may just roll the dice with what I've got. Won't be a big deal to change out if I have an issue. Perhaps our good buddy @FordTechOne might be able to shed some light here. Appreciate you looking out though brother!
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