Rebuilding a 6.2 Engine
- Thread starter PD1744
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Yep, agreed. That was with the Manley rings. I checked the gaps and didn't see any need for any further 'fitting'. Now when I went back to the stock stuff, everything is just being re-used. Including rings. And yes, I know experienced builders like you guys will have your opinions on that, and that's fine too.
B E N
FRF Addict
If you mean reusing the original rings that might not be the best, they are a wear item. If you are talking about just using a new OEM ring then 
letsgetthisdone
Full Access Member
You should not be re-using rings on a fresh hone. You're begging for excessive oil consumption and possibly even smoking if you do that. You should be able to order new rings from Ford.
CoronaRaptor
FRF Addict
I think he is using new rings, but I think he put them on the forged pistons and then Returned those pistons and is using stock pistons, so that’s why they are being reused, not “used” lol.
No actually, I was planning to re-use the rings that were already on the pistons. The Manley rings don't work with the stock pistons (different thicknesses). But since you guys noob shamed me so much (kidding, I appreciate the feedback and makes me thankful that I'm taking it slow), I'm ordering the rest of the rings, a ring grinder, a new torque angle thingy because the one I bought was garbage. I'll also resurface the block after I get everything pulled back out. Guess I'll also record my current skirt to bore clearances. Whenever I can get to it that is. Folks busy these days.
B E N
FRF Addict
You get the ultimate car guy experience of file fitting rings! Take the time to set up a comfortable working area, nice swivel chair and get you a big, cold drink in an insulated cup 
. Make sure you use the correct gap formula for boost or NA, and clean the burr off of each ring when you are happy with the fit. If you haven't already: label each piston for the bore, that way you can put the rings on the pistons as soon as the fit is setup and they don't get their locations confused.
It will all be worth it when you hear your engine roar to life.
. Make sure you use the correct gap formula for boost or NA, and clean the burr off of each ring when you are happy with the fit. If you haven't already: label each piston for the bore, that way you can put the rings on the pistons as soon as the fit is setup and they don't get their locations confused.It will all be worth it when you hear your engine roar to life.
Hell yea it will. Put some long tubes on it while you are at it!
Don't forget to stagger the gaps radially in the top/bottom rings before you stick them in the holes too. They might rotate in time, but you want them separated as best as possible at startup.
Use motor oil for your assembly lube when it comes to doing the pistons and rings. You don't the sticky stuff for much of anything really.
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I appreciate all of you guys advice, guidance, and feedback through this. Got to tinker a little bit this past Saturday.
Yanked the pistons out and took a shot at re-surfacing a block face for the first time. Was pretty therapeutic. Just pulled the dowels, plugged the cylinders, jackets, and passages up, and went to town. I used a decently heavy piece of metal that was wide enough to span the face that I trued up and some sand paper (3 progressive grits) and made several passes. Then vacuumed and shot air through everything. Turned out pretty good:
Checked the face with a straight edge and feeler gages after and was satisfied.
Next was to start fitting the rings and came across my next issue. So I intentionally ordered oversized rings so that I would be forced to grind and fit. Ordered a set of Mahle rings from Summit that was their next size up which is .020" over. Which in my head should have been good to go on the freshly honed cylinders. Well these guys were HUGE. They didn't fit in the bores (without overlapping) and when measured up next to a stock ring was .200" bigger. I would have been grinding for years with this little crappy grinder. The stock rings measure at the top of the spec, but within spec. I'm sending these back and ordering stock size. Might not be much fitting to do, but at least I have the tool now if I need to fine tune them.
So that's where we're at. Have done a little work on the truck since my last post, but nothing too exciting. I'll update the build thread (link in sig) shorty.
Yanked the pistons out and took a shot at re-surfacing a block face for the first time. Was pretty therapeutic. Just pulled the dowels, plugged the cylinders, jackets, and passages up, and went to town. I used a decently heavy piece of metal that was wide enough to span the face that I trued up and some sand paper (3 progressive grits) and made several passes. Then vacuumed and shot air through everything. Turned out pretty good:
Checked the face with a straight edge and feeler gages after and was satisfied.
Next was to start fitting the rings and came across my next issue. So I intentionally ordered oversized rings so that I would be forced to grind and fit. Ordered a set of Mahle rings from Summit that was their next size up which is .020" over. Which in my head should have been good to go on the freshly honed cylinders. Well these guys were HUGE. They didn't fit in the bores (without overlapping) and when measured up next to a stock ring was .200" bigger. I would have been grinding for years with this little crappy grinder. The stock rings measure at the top of the spec, but within spec. I'm sending these back and ordering stock size. Might not be much fitting to do, but at least I have the tool now if I need to fine tune them.
So that's where we're at. Have done a little work on the truck since my last post, but nothing too exciting. I'll update the build thread (link in sig) shorty.
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