random stalling issue

[Gryphon313]

shit that was one of my favorite games. i was never good at it though. always hit the red line and blew up.

how is the fuse and the relocation kit? have you double checked that? also the broken wires in the drivers side wheel well, did you cut back the wires to make sure there is no corrosion when doing the repair?

I cut out about 12” of wire for each, so hopefully I got it. The fuse relocation is good to go. It’s a real head scratcher.

 

[BenBB]

It is. Sounds like it's leading to fuel pump and checking the connector/wire loom branch going to it...

 

[red_mr2]

I cut out about 12” of wire for each, so hopefully I got it. The fuse relocation is good to go. It’s a real head scratcher.

sounds like you are on the right track. my truck randomly gets the wrench light followed by the p2111 or p2112. if i turn the truck off and turn it back on the light goes away and drives like nothing happened the code clears up pretty quickly. its funny you also get a random blip because i get the same thing at times when driving the truck. at first i thought it was the transmission slipping because it kinda felt like it dropped down a gear but it was super quick like maybe within a second and went away. a friend of mine was using IDS to graph what was going on and when the "blip" happened it was like i turned off the truck and the throttle position lines went flat and randomly picked up where they left off all within a second. we were not graphing the fuel line, and we could not get it to blip out again. i have tried 3 different throttle bodies and the issues all continued. im also leaning to maybe a bad fuel pump or maybe the fpdm.

 

[Gryphon313]

@red_mr2 Are you doing a full re-learn after swapping throttle bodies?

The one and only time I have ever gotten that P2111 code is with a non-OEM new throttle body. I swapped my original back on after letting the truck sit overnight. I disconnected both the + and - battery terminals and put a jumper between them while I was doing the swap.

Once everything was hooked back up I started the truck and let it idle for 15 minutes. Then I turned the A/C on and let that go for a bit. Then I pushed the brake pedal with the A/C on and held that for a couple minutes. After that I went for a 30 minute test drive. All the drivability issues went away. Only the stall at idle remains.

 

[red_mr2]

@red_mr2 Are you doing a full re-learn after swapping throttle bodies?

The one and only time I have ever gotten that P2111 code is with a non-OEM new throttle body. I swapped my original back on after letting the truck sit overnight. I disconnected both the + and - battery terminals and put a jumper between them while I was doing the swap.

Once everything was hooked back up I started the truck and let it idle for 15 minutes. Then I turned the A/C on and let that go for a bit. Then I pushed the brake pedal with the A/C on and held that for a couple minutes. After that I went for a 30 minute test drive. All the drivability issues went away. Only the stall at idle remains.

yes i have done relearn. using Ford IDS we clear the Keep alive memory and let it idle and relearn everything. all throttle body's were OEM motorcraft. when we tried putting the aftermarket one from standard it would automatically set off the wrench light and turns out the tps readings were totally wrong from the throttle body. im thinking the stalling, the p2111 and p2112 and the random blip are all related. we also put in a different MAF and we still get the same issue.

 

[Gryphon313]

I did a BMS reset the other day because it dawned on me that the battery had been installed recently. Guessing that some random outlet car dealership wouldn’t know to do the reset.

The truck definitely runs better, but it still stalls at idle. It will idle up when the a/c clutch kicks in, so that appears to be working correctly. All of the communication signals between the FPDM and the PCM seems to be valid.

I am switching gears to look for mechanical drag on the engine, specifically the power steering pump. It’s the only thing that causes the engine rpm to drop with no reaction from the PCM.

I returned the “new” throttle body, so I am only out the $$ for the FPDM and evap purge valve. I’ll update when and if I find anything.

 

[Gryphon313]

If the idle were too low then every truck produced would have the same issue, which of course they don’t. Have you removed the drive belt to check for any binding pulleys/components?

@FordTechOne Just compared the Raptor’s a/c clutch engagement to my ‘14 F150 5.0L. Night and day! The ‘14 is smooth and quiet and the Raptor is noisy and causes the tensioner to deflect when it kicks in.

And the power steering fluid has a red metallic look to it. So I will address that.

Hmmm… Did I just find the smoking gun? The a/c blows cold, so I think I will start with the clutch/pulley assembly and check for drag. Is there anything else I can do to assess the condition of the a/c compressor? Thanks again for the pointers.

**edit to add** The truck stalls even when the HVAC controls are powered off, so if it’s a drag issue, then I don’t think it’s the compressor itself. If it’s not the a/c clutch/pulley could a bad PS pump cause stalls at idle, with no steering input, but not whine or cause hard steering effort when driving?

Brad

 

[Gryphon313]

I ran out of time last night, so I didn’t get a chance to pull the belt and check the a/c clutch and pulley. It looks like there is a bunch of dirt and corrosion in there, so maybe the air gap is not sufficient, and it’s dragging. Or the pulley could be bad. I’ll check it when I get home from work tonight.

On the power steering side of things, I had already planned on upgrading to a Lee Power Steering setup, so I have that ordered. I wasn’t going to do any upgrades on this truck until I had it all sorted, but it seemed like a worthy investment.

As I dive deeper under the hood, all evidence points to the fact that this truck has been driven into a deep mud puddle. I’m surprised it doesn’t have more issues.

 

[red_mr2]

i havent replaced the FPDM but all readings from the fuel seem to be constant. my power steering pump has no noise and is smooth. also did an evap check and it still died. when we clear the KAM or disconnect the battery, the truck runs alot smoother but eventually goes back to how it was driving prior to disconnecting the battery. im assuming the computer relearns its values and starts to adjust to what it thinks it needs. my AC does make some noises but even when its turned off, the truck still dies.

 

[Gryphon313]

my AC does make some noises but even when its turned off, the truck still dies.

@red_mr2 Pull the 10A a/c clutch fuse in the power distribution box under the hood. It was in position 30 on my truck. Drive around for a couple days, and let me know if it makes a difference.

Brad