power cuts in higher rpms?

[M3sparky]

How high of RPM's? Are you by chance bumping up against the rev limiter?

as i just replied to the last message , i have been driving it in auto mode 99 percent , so the auto mode never went to the rev limiter. it would do the jerks anywhere between 4k rpm to 6k

 

[signalbobby]

wonder if the stock tune is also overly aggressive. might be picking up detonation and retarding quickly. i am experiencing the same issue and wonder if putting a step colder plugs would help.

 

[M3sparky]

The reason the OEM (all OEMs) say no fuel additives is due to the catalytic converter performance. If you run it every tank continuously it will cause some deterioration in cat efficiency which will likely set a OBD fault. The OEM is on the warranty hook for I think ~8 years, so they don't want the cat to fail "early".

This said, the ONLY octane booster additive that works is MMT. The best (contains the most MMT) on the market today is the NOS brand. There are several others that include a small amount of MMT so they can include it on the label, but not enough to make a difference. If you have the 36 gal fuel tank, it will take at least two bottles of even the NOS booster, so around $25 worth!

I live in Virginia with great 93 octane fuel, but it has 10% ethanol. Fresh ethanol is great for boosted engines, BUT it evaporates pretty quickly which will turn a tank of 93 into a whole lot less octane after a while of sitting. If the station doesn't sell much premium 93, you may even buy a tank of "bad" 93 occasionally. I've had it happen several times and it makes you think something is wrong with the engine. I have one toy tuned right to the limit of pump gas and a tank of bad gas can result in significant detonation event(s) and catastrophic damage.

i dont really care for my cats, i actually wanted to replace them with non catted pipes if there was a good enough power gain from doing it, still deciding and doing my research on them though if i will go that route. i had a can of NOS additive at home so i dumped it into my half a tank of gas thats left in there last night, and was driving it to work today on my stock filter as well, seems like the jerks are still there but it seems like they got more faint, meaning not as hard of a power surge as it was before, so il drive the rest of the tank and see if it doesnt go away il take it to the dealer and have them recheck it all to see if its all ok before i do any mods with tuning.

 

[M3sparky]

Others may chime in on the filter issue, but the answer is YES, the AEM dry-flow is "better" than the OEM filter. I bought into the K&N filter is the best advertising for years until I found out for myself just how bad they are. After I did more research into K&N I found that even the off-road racers sponsored by K&N and thusly HAD to run K&N filters ALWAYS run a closed cell foam "pre-filter" to catch the real small dust-sized particles. If not the engine would grind itself into junk in short order.

The bottom line is that when you can see light clearly through the filter, it isn't going to filter anything other than rocks and sticks...

i had put my oiled up K&n in the box and will return it today and probably order the dry version, as from what i have seen so far on this forum the intakes are a waste of money, they might get a better sound of turbo whisle which is nice but if thats all im getting from it , its def not worth getting the intake changed just for that.

 

[M3sparky]

How big of a power cut are we talking about? Are you revving and it cuts out or is it when it 1st shifts? There is a little turbo lag on initial hard tip in from low revs. I have noticed on hot day under hard prolonged acceleration and flutter feel from the turbo pressure like the ECM is protecting the motor from heat.

its not a big cut, only once yesterday in manual mode it was a rough cut but just for a very short half secont before it went back to normal , and no i havent been reving it or feeling it in the first 3 gears or so, its the higher 4 or 5th gears when you press the gas all the way to accererate that it has these hicups sometimes 2 or 3 times in the same gear , kinda feels like your hitting a bump on the road in a way but ive done the testing on smooth roads so i know its not the road or shifting. i added some fuel additive last night and it seems to help a little but their still there just not as noticable now.

 

[M3sparky]

I did not take it on, almost. Instead I plugged in a scanner and looked at the knock voltage, sure enough it was pulling timing at high RPM and boost not to mention a ton of misfire codes on multiple cylinders.

I added a bottle of VP booster that will jack the whole tank 2 octane (80 points for 10 gallons) and topped with 93 from Mobile, problem gradually went away.

Sometimes gas stations cheat and don’t actually give you 93, the ratio is cut with 87 or even worse just straight 87! The one time I needed fuel and went to XYZ instead of making the U - turn for name brand.


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ah i see, to bad i dont have 93 here, and i def dont want to keep buying a couple bottles of additives for each fillup, if it wont go away with my next fillup il have the dealer look into it.

 

[M3sparky]

wonder if the stock tune is also overly aggressive. might be picking up detonation and retarding quickly. i am experiencing the same issue and wonder if putting a step colder plugs would help.

glad im not the only one. once this tank of gas is gone il try chevron 91 next since i think i been only on shell and mobile so far, if it does the same with chevron il just take it in to ford and see what they say about it, i was also thinking it may be tune or software related, i had the same problem when i bought my gtr, it would have a very bad power loss on 91 and it even said on my fuel cap that it needs 93 octane, i took it to the dealer 5 years ago and they said yes this is a common problem we have to reflash it to work with 91 octane, after they did that , it was night and day difference much more power was released with the right software for the right type of gas.

 

[smurfslayer]

what you’re describing does not sound like timing retard alone, it may be timing retard with some misfires, or some other issue, but by itself timing retard is “more” linear in feel than an abrupt cut. It’s not completely linear, but not binary.

You’re 100% correct not to mod the truck while it’s exhibiting this behavior and correct to remove the k&n before going to the dealer because they will absolutely point their crooked little fingers at the filter as the cause.

Just to clarify, @Fordza1 said the k&n was the worst -at filtering- that is, keeping debris out of engines, but they typically flow as good or better than the stock piece, but you sacrifice filtration to get more flow and that flow may not help if the air filter isn’t a choke point in the intake system. I would think it would be a poor choice for off roading, especially in super dusty/dirty environments.

 

[signalbobby]

glad im not the only one. once this tank of gas is gone il try chevron 91 next since i think i been only on shell and mobile so far, if it does the same with chevron il just take it in to ford and see what they say about it, i was also thinking it may be tune or software related, i had the same problem when i bought my gtr, it would have a very bad power loss on 91 and it even said on my fuel cap that it needs 93 octane, i took it to the dealer 5 years ago and they said yes this is a common problem we have to reflash it to work with 91 octane, after they did that , it was night and day difference much more power was released with the right software for the right type of gas.

everyone says its bad gas. the likely hood of it being gas is slim to none. i also live with very very high IAT's. its pinging/knocking and retarding the timing. the raptor supposedly can take 87 and readjust the tune on the fly. but ford is not very reassuring right now.

91/93, shell, chevron, 76, sunoco didnt matter. the truck is knocking and retarding from what it feels like to me. i havent pulled any logs, but ive been around the tuning block for a good country minute (18 years+) to know it when i feel it.

i can almost GUARANTEE IT!!!!!!!!! that it wont do it when it gets really cold round these parts. we should totally get NOS foggers on our FMIC's and purge. funny part is it would help our power chopping and purge a shit ton of nitrous.

 

[signalbobby]

what you’re describing does not sound like timing retard alone, it may be timing retard with some misfires, or some other issue, but by itself timing retard is “more” linear in feel than an abrupt cut. It’s not completely linear, but not binary.

You’re 100% correct not to mod the truck while it’s exhibiting this behavior and correct to remove the k&n before going to the dealer because they will absolutely point their crooked little fingers at the filter as the cause.

Just to clarify, @Fordza1 said the k&n was the worst -at filtering- that is, keeping debris out of engines, but they typically flow as good or better than the stock piece, but you sacrifice filtration to get more flow and that flow may not help if the air filter isn’t a choke point in the intake system. I would think it would be a poor choice for off roading, especially in super dusty/dirty environments.

do we know if the ferd performs just a ignition retard or a combination of timing and fuel?