power cuts in higher rpms?

[signalbobby]

Well for sure the sensor you have pictured is NOT an air temp sensor or any temp sensor at all. That is the Throttle Inlet Pressure sensor, essentially a MAP. Not the actual manifold pressure, just the pre-throttle pressure. There is another T-MAP sensor for the IAT2 and a simple temp sensor for IAT1/intake air temp. So you have proved for sure that you have no idea WTF...

I stand corrected.

For a supposed over 65 year old (based upon your published 50 years of automotive experience/knowledge) you sure do tell alot of people that no one has a ******* clue and try to swing **** size around here. Literal half dozen posts from you saying the same thing. Your stories dont add up and your demeanor sure doesn't either.

Another note, not sure at 65+ how you are riding ducks.

 

[signalbobby]

My truck feels like it cuts power on long hard pulls in hot humid temps. I’m running 89 and now am going to try 91. I leave my turbo gauge up on my dash and have noticed it drops a little in pressure when I get this feeling. My guess is it pulls boost when it heats up on a long hard pull. Since it has cooled off here in NH the motor feels like a different animal! Heat over 75 to 80 definitely effects the power of this truck.

Ambient and humidity raises the intake temps high enough that it is probably pulling timing/fuel or whatever other mechanism to protect itself.

 

[signalbobby]

heat affects every car, but yes ecp the turbo cars, i have noticed a day a night difference from hot summers to cold winters the power difference is huge . the heat soak is always a issue that affects the power output. ive noticed the cuts mostly between 3.5 to 5k rpm in higher gears. although after i dumped some of the additives the other day, and its also cooler now in the mornings and afternoons 60s to 70s , i dont notice it right now. i wont add any additives on my next tank to see if it will come back again, dont want to waste time at the dealer when they cant see or feel the issue.

I made some harder pulls on 91 in so cal with ambient temps at low 70s and dont notice the timing pulls or stuttering anymore. Now that I'm back in Arizona back. Happens when peak torque band on a hot day. It was 109 on the way home.

 

[1roadking]

Bingo!

 

[FORZDA 1]

I stand corrected.

For a supposed over 65 year old (based upon your published 50 years of automotive experience/knowledge) you sure do tell alot of people that no one has a ******* clue and try to swing **** size around here. Literal half dozen posts from you saying the same thing. Your stories dont add up and your demeanor sure doesn't either.

Another note, not sure at 65+ how you are riding ducks.

My tolerance for stupid people is quite low. It’s not worth the extra effort to be “nice”. That’s what your mom does. Never underestimate “old” people. We’re a whole lot smarter, skilled, and experienced than the majority of the (usually younger) and stupid population. I have discovered some old stupid people on this forum though. Maybe it’s a truck thing? Anyway, if you’re going to argue or dispute someone or something, it’s best to have your shit together. Otherwise you’ll be trounced upon. If something I’ve said or done doesn’t “add up” to you, maybe it’s because your “calculator” is on the fritz. See previous stupid people comment.

I love my Ducati’s (Ducs not ducks although it is pronounced “ducks”) for sure. My 1198SP Superbike will still wheelie at 130+ if you bang it into 4th real hard at WOT.

 

[smurfslayer]

<merciful snippage of elderly chest thumping>

I love my Ducati’s (Ducs not ducks although it is pronounced “ducks”) for sure. My 1198SP Superbike will still wheelie at 130+ if you bang it into 4th real hard at WOT.

Are you sure? I don’t even think Checa’s SP superbike was wheelieng at 130 just banging gears, For sure, entering the front straight on some of the faster tracks, but the 1198 is running out of steam pretty quick after about 100. Sure, the liter bikes can wheelie over Ago’s leap (Isle of Man) at 130 1198s wheelie nicely through the first 2 gear changes laughably easy, 3rd gear isn’t a guarantee though but by that time, other liter bikes in the class from Suzuki, Honda, Kaw, brand-b, ... they’re leaving the 1198 for dead. I know; I’ve had both. The duc is nice, super light weight and handles better than anything of its era, but it’s prohibitively expensive to get the 1198 crankshaft hp equal to the rwhp of even the lowly Honda, much less the euro spec 10r, or brand b superbikes.

Plus, the fueling on the Duc superbikes is atrocious, owing to them not being willing to properly sort out the emissions compliant fueling at all and barely consider anything below 4500 rpms.
- are they still getting away with delivering their press fleet bikes with the race maps and aftermarket exhausts installed? The moto-rags don’t let other manufacturers do that and get away with it without comment, but Ducati gets a free pass for some reason. Probably because their bikes are gorgeous.


But anyway, I was suspecting something like @03Darin was reporting with the steady state throttle making micro adjustments, along with the timing being pulled or some other outside factor. I don’t think the Rap cuts out that aggressively for timing retard, but it does with stability control/traction control. It tries really hard to keep you from getting sideways

 

[FORZDA 1]

Are you sure?

…...

But anyway, I was suspecting something like @03Darin was reporting with the steady state throttle making micro adjustments, along with the timing being pulled or some other outside factor. I don’t think the Rap cuts out that aggressively for timing retard, but it does with stability control/traction control. It tries really hard to keep you from getting sideways

LOL, yes am I quite sure... My 1198SP makes 182whp and 105wtq and weighs only 400lbs wet full of fuel, so yes it is quite capable and will indeed wheelie at the 4th gear change. You can lessen/prevent it by getting well up over the fairing/tank, but it's a lot of fun. The engine drops right into the torque peak (8k rpm) and is accelerating like a rocket. I can easily out accelerate any period superbike all the way to ~170 mph. I'm geared just a bit lower for mostly street/backroads riding vs track. The 2011 (Checa's Championship year) WSBK bikes are/were limited in preparation by WSBK rules where my personal bike(s) are only limited by my wallet. My particular bike also has DLC coated valve gear. You won't see that on anything other than maybe another 2011 SP version. The only weak point in the 1198 engine is the crank bearing preload. The factory didn't take the time to set them all up properly. Some of the engines are set up perfectly and some well..., are not. Needless to say mine is literally perfect. My local shop Ducati Master Tech has/had a 2009 1198S that he prepped and my bike still out-powers it by 5-6whp & wtq on the dyno. He did the prep on both engines, so he was real concerned. Mine is much faster than his on the road, but much of that is his higher weight/size compared to me.


To your Raptor comment, YES the Advance-Trac system will do unexpected things to thwart your party fun. I've had it shut off the throttle when doing a brake-boost drag launch with traction control off, short button poke. If you're in weather mode and go around a corner a bit to fast, it applies the brakes and cuts throttle to try and straighten it out. To get a really good feel for how the drive modes work, everyone should go and try them all out in several different conditions. Don't go into Baja mode on pavement because it puts you in 4WD HI.

If you're going to ask for maximum fun, you need to put it in Sport mode and hold the button until the message comes up the Advance-Trac is OFF.

 

[smurfslayer]

182... not much less than my 10R put down with the Euro map, before mods. I’m sure you can out accelerate any -stock- period superbike, but as a Ducatisti, you realize that you’re paying somewhere between 1.5-2.5x the dollar for the same hp and, you’re starting from about a 20hp deficit. That era 10R was putting down 170 rwhp stock, the Honda was putting down 160. The R1 in stock trim wasn’t brilliant the first year or 2 either in stock trim when they changed the crank - but the engine does sound good.
But a Gixxer with $2000 in mods would leave a 119x sucking rice burning fumes by gear change 2 and never look back.

Which just serves to illustrate how well the Duc handles, even stock. Wasn’t it like 2 seconds a lap faster than the 458 Italia? On just about any track, regardless of giving up 10-20 hp, the Duc put power down better, transitioned side to side better, and would be first or very close at pretty much any track compared to the other liter bikes.

back to the Rap; my big objection is an obvious power cut accelerating out onto a road; a 90 degree turn onto a road. I can feel the electronics pulling power to keep the truck straight. Not rev limiter abrupt, but like traction control cut. I don’t think that’s what OP is getting though, I’m getting that low in the power band, and she’s obviously trying to preserve traction and the tires.

 

[FORZDA 1]

...as a Ducatisti, you realize that you’re paying somewhere between 1.5-2.5x the dollar for the same hp …..

Yes, I fully understand the Ducati costs. Kind of like a Ferrari. Yes, you can buy more power, etc., etc., etc., but well, it's a Ferrari. So..., it's a Ducati. If I was only concerned about costs, I certainly wouldn't have my sig list of vehicles, not counting the 36ft Class A RV in my drive, etc. I rode Japanese bikes for decades, until I was secure enough financially for pretty much anything I want and in 2011 I fell in love with the 1198SP. It was the first time I had ever even stopped in to a European bike shop. I have no desire for the later Superbikes, even the new badass V-4 as they veered away from the classic 90 deg V (or L) twins, trellis frames, and dry clutches. I know why they did and the new bikes are faster, etc., but that doesn't matter to me. Kind of like the guys who rag on the new Raptor with the V-6. They like the old V-8s and that's ok, just don't **** and moan about it. As for the new bikes vs my "old" one, you won't pass me on the road and likely not on the track, unless you're a VERY good rider. "I'm not as good as I once was, but once, I'm as good as I ever was"...

Went by the Heavy & Dangerous shop today just for grins and they're still selling their ancient shit for more $$$ than my Ducatis and that H&D shit is literally ancient junk. Their newest hotrod bike weighs about 900 lbs and all of it is high on the bike. To sit on it feels like your balancing a lead ball on a knife blade. It just falls over. H&Ds are for fat-assed old men (and women) who have no class and want to be part of a class-less group. You know, the wild HOGs. Oh well, I still have a Yamaha scooter for my granddaughter to ride.

 

[xrocket21]

LOL, yes am I quite sure... My 1198SP makes 182whp and 105wtq and weighs only 400lbs wet full of fuel, so yes it is quite capable and will indeed wheelie at the 4th gear change. You can lessen/prevent it by getting well up over the fairing/tank, but it's a lot of fun. The engine drops right into the torque peak (8k rpm) and is accelerating like a rocket. I can easily out accelerate any period superbike all the way to ~170 mph. I'm geared just a bit lower for mostly street/backroads riding vs track. The 2011 (Checa's Championship year) WSBK bikes are/were limited in preparation by WSBK rules where my personal bike(s) are only limited by my wallet. My particular bike also has DLC coated valve gear. You won't see that on anything other than maybe another 2011 SP version. The only weak point in the 1198 engine is the crank bearing preload. The factory didn't take the time to set them all up properly. Some of the engines are set up perfectly and some well..., are not. Needless to say mine is literally perfect. My local shop Ducati Master Tech has/had a 2009 1198S that he prepped and my bike still out-powers it by 5-6whp & wtq on the dyno. He did the prep on both engines, so he was real concerned. Mine is much faster than his on the road, but much of that is his higher weight/size compared to me.


To your Raptor comment, YES the Advance-Trac system will do unexpected things to thwart your party fun. I've had it shut off the throttle when doing a brake-boost drag launch with traction control off, short button poke. If you're in weather mode and go around a corner a bit to fast, it applies the brakes and cuts throttle to try and straighten it out. To get a really good feel for how the drive modes work, everyone should go and try them all out in several different conditions. Don't go into Baja mode on pavement because it puts you in 4WD HI.

If you're going to ask for maximum fun, you need to put it in Sport mode and hold the button until the message comes up the Advance-Trac is OFF.

Start truck, switch to Baja mode, change back to 2wd, hold button for advance trac off and traction control off, then put it in manual, and then that's the money shot, IMO