Oil pressure while driving

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GunMonkeyINTL

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... I have a ‘19 and at 6200 miles on original oil... They call me a day later and said oil level was 2-3 quarts low. They give me a free synthetic oil change and we agree that I will monitor oil level by checking dipstick.

You put 6200 miles on a new engine without checking the oil???
Damn, man, you got balls.
 
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JasonSTL

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interesting enough, these types of concerns are the very reason that manufacturers stopped providing real time gauge readings in the 90's and substituted "dummy" gauges in their place. Only recently have real gauge readouts started to make a comeback. Not knocking you, because you posted on a forum asking for information. On the contrary, there are consumers that will analyze every gauge reading in their vehicle and end up at the dealership demanding repairs for their vehicle for which nothing is wrong. The dealership then bills the manufacturer under an NPF (No Problem Found) code. When the manufacturers tracks warranty spend and finds that a specific system/concern is driving cost - regardless of whether it's a design issue, defect, or normal operation - they implement changes to mitigate that cost.

These engines use a variable displacement gerator oil pump controlled by the PCM. The connector is right in the front cover, next to the crank damper. The purpose of the variable displacement system is to optimize oil pressure under all conditions. Under idle and light cruise, oil pressure is low because hydrodynamic lubrication can be maintained under these conditions without considerable pressure. This prevents oil aeration and extends oil and oil pump life. Under high load conditions, such as boost/heavy throttle, the PCM ramps up solenoid duty cycle to maintain the desired pressure. This is advantages, as older, non-variable systems can only produce pressure as a function of RPM, not load. The variable oil pump allows the PCM to ramp up pressure regardless of RPM, which is critical in an application such as the 3.5 HO that can produce and maintain max torque at a relatively low RPM.


Thanks for the explanation. I figured it was a variable output pump after doing some additional reading.
 

quikag

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Lol that literally happen to me as well, only I wasn’t flirting it. Checking that #dipstick monthly
BTW do you know the factory oil type they use? Is it Castrol? Or what brand ?


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I think they used the Ford synthetic, so not sure if it's rebranded Mobil or whatever. It's working good now.
 

quikag

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You put 6200 miles on a new engine without checking the oil???
Damn, man, you got balls.

Well, figured if I was buying a $72k half-ton brand new truck, that it wouldn't burn 2-3 quarts breaking in. That's foreign to me coming from GM trucks and Toyota SUV's which never burned a drop of oil. That said, I did check it a few times, but was checking it warm and it was showing oil in the range on the dipstick, so I didn't think too much about it. Plus, I figured if it got too low, I'd get a warning, which is what happened.

Just FYI, the pretty knowledgeable Ford tech at the dealer did tell me the truck cannot electronically determine low oil level, only low oil pressure.

I'm just glad the oil consumption issued has subsided significantly.
 

GunMonkeyINTL

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Well, figured if I was buying a $72k half-ton brand new truck, that it wouldn't burn 2-3 quarts breaking in.

If fairness, if you bought a $3,000,000,000,000 aircraft carrier, you’d probably check the propeller grease a few times during the first deployment. Grease the ******* seat hinges, and what-not.

Hell, maybe even install a ******* in the wheelhouse (warranty be damned)...and grease the hinges on its seat...

If an engine is going to exhibit excessive oil consumption, it’s most likely to show it in the first 1,000 miles, or the last 1,000 miles.

The first 1,000 miles potentially also being the last 1,000 because... well... oil’s kinda important.
 

quikag

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If fairness, if you bought a $3,000,000,000,000 aircraft carrier, you’d probably check the propeller grease a few times during the first deployment. Grease the ******* seat hinges, and what-not.

Hell, maybe even install a ******* in the wheelhouse (warranty be damned)...and grease the hinges on its seat...

If an engine is going to exhibit excessive oil consumption, it’s most likely to show it in the first 1,000 miles, or the last 1,000 miles.

The first 1,000 miles potentially also being the last 1,000 because... well... oil’s kinda important.

I don’t disagree with your sentiment but I bought the 8yr/125k warranty for a reason. ;)

I don’t abuse cars but if the car can’t protect itself from damage then Ford is going to fix it on their dime. That said, I am checking the oil periodically because I’m not a fan of mechanical abuse. I’m glad the consumption appears to have subsided.
 

FordTechOne

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Thank you for that detailed explanation. That makes way too much sense to have been something Ford would just tell us outright.

If the oil pump is not directly crank-driven, then, could there possibly be a way to let the battery drive the oil pump for a few minutes before/after shut-down?

I’d gladly dedicate my remote-start to running the oil pump over having the climate controls running before I get in.

The oil pump is directly driven by the crank; it’s a gerator type that fits over the crank snout. The pump output is varied by the solenoid which in controlled by the PCM.
 

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What is the normal engine oil pressure range maximum and minimum for Gen2?
Most of the comments are about minimum pressure at idle but what about engine oil pressure vs rpms?
 

Old-Raptor-guy

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What is the normal engine oil pressure range maximum and minimum for Gen2?
Most of the comments are about minimum pressure at idle but what about engine oil pressure vs rpms?
Read most the comments, the majority are about psi at speed/rpm not idle.

the newer (I would have to double check but believe 2017+, HO version maybe later) have electronically controlled oil pump bypass valve. Where older engines just had a 60 psi spring, the electronic version can vary oil pressure as needed.

It will vary by load on the engine, but shouldn't go below 20psi.

80% throttle or 1psi boost or 3200 rpm seems to trigger max oil pressure and I have seem max of about 70psi.

This is done for 1 reason and 1 reason only, to recover parasitic losses which lower MPG, which makes the .Gov happy.

I personally don't care for it, but I haven't seen one fail yet either.
 

FordTechOne

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Read most the comments, the majority are about psi at speed/rpm not idle.

the newer (I would have to double check but believe 2017+, HO version maybe later) have electronically controlled oil pump bypass valve. Where older engines just had a 60 psi spring, the electronic version can vary oil pressure as needed.
2017+ Gen 2 EcoBoosts all have the variable displacement oil pump design. The bypass/relief valve is still mechanical, the spec at which it opens is not provided but I’d suspect around 100 PSI.
It will vary by load on the engine, but shouldn't go below 20psi.

80% throttle or 1psi boost or 3200 rpm seems to trigger max oil pressure and I have seem max of about 70psi.

This is done for 1 reason and 1 reason only, to recover parasitic losses which lower MPG, which makes the .Gov happy.

I personally don't care for it, but I haven't seen one fail yet either.
Fuel efficiency is definitely a significant factor (pumping losses) but I think it’s also advantageous in that the system can increase oil pressure instantly based on load, regardless of engine RPM. With the torque these engines put out on the low end, being able to ramp up oil pressure before the peak torque is reached ensures the bearings have adequate film strength.
 
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