Need Help - Issue after Bumper Swap

[Jesse1983]

Hi - I installed an ADD bolt on bumper the other day. Everything seemed to go well; I relocated the ACC module with the Bajamod. Ran to Starbucks to show off the bumper and noticed the CEL. The Ford Pass app shows 8 alerts, the first being:

"The powertrain control module lost communication with the vehicle active grill shutter module for a period of time. Additional alerts may accompany this alert when this fault is present."

And they sure did. The additional 7 alerts referenced the cabin heater coolant pump control circuit, the engine coolant bypass valve control circuit and its associated wiring, the A/C control circuit and its associated wiring, the engine cooling fan control circuit, the charge air cooling fan, the turbocharger/supercharger control system, and the engine oil pressure control solenoid.

I took the truck to Advance Auto and they saw only one fault code: P0034. They cleared the code for me and it came back on the next start. I can definitely notice the truck driving differently, ie less power. It's not like gimpy, but certainly different. I have a feeling it all ties back to the lower shutter motor that I zip tied per the instructions. The motor is definitely plugged in as I can access it without removing the ADD. But, I plan to remove the grill tomorrow and get back in there and see if maybe I forgot to plug something else in that I can't see. Wanted to start this thread in the meantime to see if anyone ever experienced anything like this and/or could offer any advice.

Thanks in advance!

Jesse

 

[FordTechOne]

The scanners at Autozone typically can only pull PCM DTCs, so there may be additional faults set in other modules.

P0034 indicates an open or short to ground in the turbocharger bypass valve, which is located on the driver’s side of the charge air cooler. Start by making sure the harness is plugged in.

 

[Jesse1983]

The scanners at Autozone typically can only pull PCM DTCs, so there may be additional faults set in other modules.

P0034 indicates an open or short to ground in the turbocharger bypass valve, which is located on the driver’s side of the charge air cooler. Start by making sure the harness is plugged in.

Thank you! Do you think this code could be triggered because of something to do with the shutters, either lower or behind the grill?

Would this code being present have some effect on performance?

 

[FordTechOne]

Thank you! Do you think this code could be triggered because of something to do with the shutters, either lower or behind the grill?

Would this code being present have some effect on performance?

That DTC is unrelated to the grille shutters. Any faults with the bypass valve will cause the truck to enter a failure mode that will reduce performance.

 

[Jesse1983]

That DTC is unrelated to the grille shutters. Any faults with the bypass valve will cause the truck to enter a failure mode that will reduce performance.

Well shit. I wasn't even accessing anything in that area. But I'll definitely start there. Thanks again!

 

[2020FordRaptor]

Hi - I installed an ADD bolt on bumper the other day. Everything seemed to go well; I relocated the ACC module with the Bajamod. Ran to Starbucks to show off the bumper and noticed the CEL. The Ford Pass app shows 8 alerts, the first being:

"The powertrain control module lost communication with the vehicle active grill shutter module for a period of time. Additional alerts may accompany this alert when this fault is present."

And they sure did. The additional 7 alerts referenced the cabin heater coolant pump control circuit, the engine coolant bypass valve control circuit and its associated wiring, the A/C control circuit and its associated wiring, the engine cooling fan control circuit, the charge air cooling fan, the turbocharger/supercharger control system, and the engine oil pressure control solenoid.

I took the truck to Advance Auto and they saw only one fault code: P0034. They cleared the code for me and it came back on the next start. I can definitely notice the truck driving differently, ie less power. It's not like gimpy, but certainly different. I have a feeling it all ties back to the lower shutter motor that I zip tied per the instructions. The motor is definitely plugged in as I can access it without removing the ADD. But, I plan to remove the grill tomorrow and get back in there and see if maybe I forgot to plug something else in that I can't see. Wanted to start this thread in the meantime to see if anyone ever experienced anything like this and/or could offer any advice.

Thanks in advance!

Jesse

Time to take it to a dealer. They have the right software to find out what's wrong. That's why I don't like messing with software and sensors.

 

[Jesse1983]

That DTC is unrelated to the grille shutters. Any faults with the bypass valve will cause the truck to enter a failure mode that will reduce performance.

So I retraced my steps to see if I could recall doing anything dumb (during the install) and something came to mind. I shut the hood before putting the grill or cover back on and slammed some wires in there. I went back and found that the wires leading to the upper grill shutter motor were mangled. Very likely I blew a fuse but don't know which fuse or fuses may be impacted. Any advice?

 

[James O]

Ouch! Glad you found the possible problem.

 

[Idaho]

So I retraced my steps to see if I could recall doing anything dumb (during the install) and something came to mind. I shut the hood before putting the grill or cover back on and slammed some wires in there. I went back and found that the wires leading to the upper grill shutter motor were mangled. Very likely I blew a fuse but don't know which fuse or fuses may be impacted. Any advice?

View attachment 361271

To at least get you going, a soldering iron, solder, and some heat shrink tubing with a heat gun / hair dryer.

To me, it appears there is a enough slack to cut the wire at the damaged point, strip, twist, and solder back together. This option should get you operational and give you some time to decide if you’d like to buy and install replacement wiring or not.

 

[FordTechOne]

So I retraced my steps to see if I could recall doing anything dumb (during the install) and something came to mind. I shut the hood before putting the grill or cover back on and slammed some wires in there. I went back and found that the wires leading to the upper grill shutter motor were mangled. Very likely I blew a fuse but don't know which fuse or fuses may be impacted. Any advice?

View attachment 361271

Yea that’ll do it. As Idaho mentioned, the damaged section of the wires will need to be cut out and the wires will need to be soldered back together. It’s critical that the solder penetrates the strands; it can’t just be on the surface of the wires or there will be high resistance. If your not skilled in wiring repair you may want to bring it to a shop to have them fix it. Also note that generic heat shrink tubing from an auto parts store can allow water to migrate into the joint; only use Ford/Motorcraft heat shrink tubing, which contains a glue that seals the ends of the tubing when heated.