M3sparky
Full Access Member
thanks for the tip i didnt think of itDeflate the rear tires. I deflated about 18 psi to beat a Corvette back in my mustang days. Hooked great. Traction is everything
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thanks for the tip i didnt think of itDeflate the rear tires. I deflated about 18 psi to beat a Corvette back in my mustang days. Hooked great. Traction is everything
Very interesting. This pretty much confirms my suspicions that the Cobb tunes w/o the tranny tuning gave power on dyno but didn’t equate to much in terms of actual improvement in acceleration since the tranny was still acting on stock parameters. Your 0-60 #s WITH their trans tuning- which, no offense I’m just going to guess is no where near as dialed-in/complete as MPT/Gearhead for example- are behind the OPs & while respectable are basically about where a good stock run could be. I’m sure more repeatable w/ the other mods + tune.
Just to be clear- not knocking your tune/mods just stating that, essentially, I feel like cobb was selling “1/2 tunes” before & w/o any adjustment to the TCM didn’t really translate to tangible significant improvements in real world acceleration. I had called em out on this they refused to offer up any before/after 1/4 mile results & the results they did show w/ ECM tune only were nothing to write home about.
You’re def on right track to disable TC, but I think locking that rear might not be best idea on pavement while simultaneously going Wot balls to wall....
I’d love to see how the OPs draggy device compares to actual times @ the strip.
While I’m not really that concerned about running Baja trucks down the drag strip it’s cool to see how much a tune transforms these things. High 12’s in 1/4 from a 5600 lb flying brick on 35”s is just nuts.
4WD launch?
I get a driveline "clunk" if I switch from 4A to 2H on throttle. Doesn't seem like it would be a good idea to switch it at WOT.
SAME HERE!! i switched to to Awd on the stop sign, then i took off and it made a bang bang bang i left of right away, now when i go wot on the freeway in awd there is a pretty good vibratrion so i made a service appointment for thutsday for them to get iy all checked out
NEVER switch drive modes or 4WD modes under power! You must let the vehicle coast while switching or if stopped you must let it roll a bit to let the front hubs lock in. The front hubs slipping across the splines is what causes the noise. You have likely damaged the locking hubs causing the vibration.
I dunno bout that...while it’s a different system (lacks the wet clutch packs which would be a negative but I think the hubs engage magnetically instead of vacuum actuated like ford so a positive) BUT all GM dudes who run trucks @ strip start in 4A then switch to 2wd once hooking