making these old shocks look new again

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

FN-2187

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2015
Posts
200
Reaction score
340
Location
Bay area, CA
the set of 3.0s i've got on the raptor now are looking really rough. the bodies are in need of some serious loving, the internals could use better valving and a full rebuild. a few years of living by the ocean has taken its toll on this poor thing.

What are my options for re-coating? I've heard the new thing with shock bodies are cerakoting them for a more durable finish. anybody have experience with cerakoting theirs? as they sit currently, they are badly rusted and I assume they will need to be totally stripped of their zinc before either re-plating or cerakoting. (see pics)

the springs will need to be powder coated when its all disassembled.

they also are a very stiff ride. I'd like to get them re-valved to get better performance off road. as it sits, bumps are more "jaring" and it doesnt seem like the suspension really works as it should. ive ridden in other raptors with Icon 3.0s and its a much different/softer ride.

suggestions on what I should do?

is there a solution for protecting the rear shocks from flying debris being kicked up by the front tires?

42291928204_14a07bca73_b.jpg

42291927974_4ecba05bd8_b.jpg

42291927804_fa8d456a46_b.jpg

42108587055_db367cbcb5_b.jpg

42291927364_6b1169399d_b.jpg
 

Jhollowell

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2016
Posts
808
Reaction score
818
Location
Everett, wa
This is funny. I was just about to do a write up on the same thing. I’m in the process of refinishing some stock 2.5s now. I used some chemical paint stripper to remove the clear coat. Then used a scotch brite combi-s wheel and drill to polish them. Then i sprayed them with cerakote clear. I’m planning to replace the decals and then cover the whole body with clear 3m motorcycle number plate background vinyl

8840586aeeceb6c78ed5b975c7814a73.jpg
c82bc39419a1e2b01d96c83a0c0ddbc1.jpg

Paint stripper
7552045f20c167e9682f92795cd1c070.jpg

Polishing wheel
dd6f40f32a10823d43e0c93345aaa1f2.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
OP
OP
F

FN-2187

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2015
Posts
200
Reaction score
340
Location
Bay area, CA
This is funny. I was just about to do a write up on the same thing. I’m in the process of refinishing some stock 2.5s now. I used some chemical paint stripper to remove the clear coat. Then used a scotch brite combi-s wheel and drill to polish them. Then i sprayed them with cerakote clear. I’m planning to replace the decals and then cover the whole body with clear 3m motorcycle number plate background vinyl

8840586aeeceb6c78ed5b975c7814a73.jpg
c82bc39419a1e2b01d96c83a0c0ddbc1.jpg

Paint stripper
7552045f20c167e9682f92795cd1c070.jpg

Polishing wheel
dd6f40f32a10823d43e0c93345aaa1f2.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

good idea to wrap them after spraying. It would certainly help protect them from rock chips and debris.

those look great. how hard was it to cerakote?
 

Jhollowell

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2016
Posts
808
Reaction score
818
Location
Everett, wa
I’m going to try to get the decals and vinyl on tonight. Will post up when they’re done. I still need to spray the perch retaining rings and the upper part of the front shocks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---------- Post added at 08:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:59 PM ----------

Cerakoting is pretty easy if you have all the stuff. I set up a make shift spray booth with some old bed sheets in the garage. Hang them from some webbing and spray. The key is to get them clean. So polish them then wipe with acetone before spraying. It goes on really thin so i only taped up the shaft I would have preferred to powder coat them clear but i would have had to take them apart and didn’t want to tackle that. I think cerakote and vinyl should be sufficient and if not I’ll just refinish them again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Jhollowell

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2016
Posts
808
Reaction score
818
Location
Everett, wa
I just cleaned the blue parts with acetone and a scrubby sponge. Then clear coat with cerakote. They ended up a lot more shiny than i was expecting. I really like it. My girlfriend has a vinyl cutter and makes decals so i just had her make a few for me. You can buy the oem ones from sdhq

Here’s a pic of the decals. I still need to add the clear viny
76701dc90330aaa7a674beb1b067fe80.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

downforce137

FRF Addict
Joined
Jan 5, 2016
Posts
2,132
Reaction score
3,033
Location
In Diana
hows the PC holding up to off road/regular use?

the powder is looking great, but I also just put them on in January and only did Snoball(1300mi round trip) and about another 3000 road miles. I keep them cleaned up and I've been spraying the heim ends with silicone. Haven't noticed any rock chips, powder is pretty resilient. I didn't coat the fronts due to the threaded perch, but looking back I should have called king and asked about it. I bet the perch would have clamped down just fine..
 

BenBB

FRF Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2016
Posts
1,810
Reaction score
2,461
Location
Lots of different places
they also are a very stiff ride. I'd like to get them re-valved to get better performance off road. as it sits, bumps are more "jaring" and it doesnt seem like the suspension really works as it should. ive ridden in other raptors with Icon 3.0s and its a much different/softer ride.

suggestions on what I should do?

is there a solution for protecting the rear shocks from flying debris being kicked up by the front tires?

How much time did you spend dialing in the compression and rebound? Icons will ride differently as the valving is designed to be softer the harder the hits get, and firmer on smaller stuff, where your Fox should soak up little hits smoother, largely dependent on how the bypasses (and bumps) are adjusted (sorry if this is redundant or anything, trying to learn myself). Ideally the rear compression damping would be a smooth transition over to the bump stops as they travel through the compression stroke and the bump stops absorb that final hit. IMHO time spent adjusting, testing, and documenting everything is time well spent. And doing it all over again for different conditions...

Aside from other's suggestions you could also look at some mid flaps and/or Rokblokz. Hard to tell what's doing more damage, moisture or impact, but were they mine I'd be washing them often and considering some Amsoil HDMP or something. Rust is evil.

This is funny. I was just about to do a write up on the same thing. I’m in the process of refinishing some stock 2.5s now. I used some chemical paint stripper to remove the clear coat. Then used a scotch brite combi-s wheel and drill to polish them. Then i sprayed them with cerakote clear. I’m planning to replace the decals and then cover the whole body with clear 3m motorcycle number plate background vinyl

That is bad ass, they look damn near new. WELL DONE!!!!
 
Top