Live Valve delete ride quality

[MattACK]

How did you bleed the assembly to ensure there wasn’t any air inside? I would think in that type of setup you’d almost have to assemble it submerged in a tub of fluid, or at least have it full to the point where you’re squeezing it out as you assembled the pieces. I used to rebuild the Fox shocks on my brother’s Tacoma and my Swayaway 2.5 on the Bronco regularly. Both has their own procedure to remove all the air.

There is a bleeder screw at the bottom of the reservoir. One thing I didn't mention above, but RPG covers in their video, is the bleeding of the nitrogen and install of the schrader valve.

The shock retains all the fluid as long as you leave it with the solenoid valve facing up.

 

[BroncoAZ]

There is a bleeder screw at the bottom of the reservoir. One thing I didn't mention above, but RPG covers in their video, is the bleeding of the nitrogen and install of the schrader valve.

The shock retains all the fluid as long as you leave it with the solenoid valve facing up.

I was talking about bleeding the hydraulic fluid, not purging for the nitrogen. On my Swayaways you invert the shocks and there is a bleeder screw on the top so you squeeze fluid out as you fully tighten the cap on the body.

 

[MattACK]

How did you bleed the assembly to ensure there wasn’t any air inside? I would think in that type of setup you’d almost have to assemble it submerged in a tub of fluid, or at least have it full to the point where you’re squeezing it out as you assembled the pieces. I used to rebuild the Fox shocks on my brother’s Tacoma and my Swayaway 2.5 on the Bronco regularly. Both has their own procedure to remove all the air.

Unsure. I did not add any fluid and RPGs video didn't cover a bleed down procedure.

 

[MattACK]

I was talking about bleeding the hydraulic fluid, not purging for the nitrogen. On my Swayaways you invert the shocks and there is a bleeder screw on the top so you squeeze fluid out as you fully tighten the cap on the body.

I plan on taking it to a shop to charge them back and hope this is part of the procedure.

 

[slater]

updates?!?

 

[MattACK]

updates?!?

Not yet. I'll try and get the fronts done this weekend.

Been having a hard time finding a shop that will charge them. Some see it as a liability that they need to be bled and don't want to be held liable for anything that may happen to them. It's fair, don't blame them.

So, I may bleed them myself with compressed air and take them to a shop to fill with nitrogen when done. I'm assuming it isn't too different from how the 2.5 shocks are bled, but will need to pull apart the shroud and find the bleed screws. No hydraulic fluid was really lost in the process so we should be good?

I'm stumbling through this so if anyone has any tips that would be great.

 

[MattACK]

Here is a video that I'm using for inspiration. It's for the older year model shock, but I expect the procedure to be the same.

 

[slater]

10-4, dang stinks your hitting a few snags. However that is the price you pay when on the bleeding edge of things! Mine will go on the 17th.

 

[MattACK]

All it is costing me is time right now. I was just notified that my brake rotors are shipping, so I have at least a week to figure it out.

 

[alphatwox]

I have my take-offs w/live valve deletes being installed for me (along with some Deavers) starting on Monday, picking my truck back up sometime Wednesday. I’ll let y’all know how it all feels after the fact.

They will be swapping over my Eibachs to front my current shocks over to the take offs too, so my ride quality may “differ” but overall I should at least be able to let you know how it all feels from original to take-offs with live valve delete.