Kooks header install issue

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donk_316

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Today I finished tightening the passenger side header, remounted motor mount and reinstalled the starter.

All that's left now is 2 clamps and installing all 4 O2 sensors.

The story is that the headers, Y pipe and cat back / intake and tune is worth around 40hp.
 
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donk_316

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Well I'm officially done. Rebuilt the catback today after a quick run to JB Auto.

Truck actually runs and idles on stock Tune. No check engine light also! Very nice.

Still hoping the SVC tune shows up Monday (?)
 

bsimms89

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I know I'm resurrecting a dead thread, but to be clear you guys unbolted the passenger and driver side engine mount (the instructions only mention the passenger side, but I'm seeing it won't raise too much while still attached on the drivers side)? And completely removed the passenger side. Did you have to unbolt the steering at the u-joint to move that out of the way?
 

bsimms89

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Thanks, good to know, I'll put the bolt back in the steering(it was too rusted to separate anyway) and now I'll take out the drivers side mount. I also took your advice and ordered a set of Torx sockets that should be here tomorrow and am going to try that method for the nuts that I can't quite get free. I actually had one nut that as i was turning it I got it out to find the whole stud came with it, the nut was stuck to the stud.
 
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Pk64f100

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I am debating this also but I am eventually going to install a whipple SC so I think I need the aders for best outcome. Anyone have SC with what type exhaust are you running? TY
 

Anthony k

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I found you have to have the correct length socket/extension combo, but the starter bolts can be removed pretty easily. As far as lifting the enigine, I found removing the lower mount bolts on the driver side and lifting the whole engine up by a block of wood and jack under the oil pan. Be very very careful not to lift the engine too high and lift the truck up with it. I found out the hard way. The instructions don't say this, but I made my life easier. The driver side pipes are pretty easy to manipulate in but on the passenger side, lower the engine back down. Another words I found the higher the engine was jacked up the worse it was to manipulate the pipes up in. The passenger side motor mount is going to be a pain to put back in, but just be patient with it.

I forgot to also mention, I removed the wheel well liners. Made life easier as well

Trust me, it's going to be a marathon
For the love of god. Do NOT lift any motor by the oil pan. Good lord
 

mpk1996

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Bringing this back up. Again.

For these motors, whats a better way to lift the engine. I have an engine lift, but have only ever pulled engines with are carb style intake that I could bolt a plate too. Just looking at it, not sure where I’d hook the hoist to on the motor since I’m not actually pulling the whole thing.
 
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