Jack Type / Lift Points for Gen2?

[Zeusmotorworks]

Where do you guys jack these things up? My former rig was higher, but had aftermarket engine skid that served as a center point for the front. Does a standard 2/3 ton jack have enough reach to do this on a Raptor? Just for garage maintenance?

 

[Badgertits]

Any other place to buy the 2 ton version? Seems out of stock o pro eagle website

 

[K223]

It is NOT safe or wise to "jack up by the pumpkin" or "the lower control arms"....IMO

Are you referencing the safety of the person doing it or the vehicle because if breakage? I am pretty much saying if your doing this on a driveway let’s say and utilize jack stands as well. I have used these two points as necessary many times in the past on trucks and cars as needed.

 

[BroncoAZ]

It is NOT safe or wise to "jack up by the pumpkin" or "the lower control arms"....IMO

I know there was a warning in the manual on one of my trucks not to jack it by the pumpkin, I can’t remember if it was a Ford or Dodge. Many axles have the tubes pressed in to the center section and then rosebud welded in just a couple spots, making them relatively weak there since normally it doesn’t support weight. I still see many tire shops jack the rear there.

As for the lower control arms, they better be able to support the weight without issues, but they could be scratched or gouged. I use a chunk of rubber horse mat I cut to fit the top of my HF floor jack to prevent damage to LCA or the pinch weld jacking points on any vehicle I’ve had.

I see many people online doing install videos using the trailer hitch to lift the rear, I think this is a bad idea. With as weak as the hitch is reported to be, and the fact it’s only rated for a tongue weight lower than the rear half of the truck, I think it could bend.

I have two floor jacks in rotation, a $80 HF grey jack for most things, and a HF long frame jack for my Bronco and now Raptor. The long frame jack takes up a ton of space and it heavy as hell, but it lifts to 36” without extensions. I bought it back in probably 2003 and it’s out of production now. Here it is being used to flex out my Bronco. I should probably replace it with the Pro Eagle just to save the space in my garage.

 

[K223]

I know there was a warning in the manual on one of my trucks not to jack it by the pumpkin, I can’t remember if it was a Ford or Dodge. Many axles have the tubes pressed in to the center section and then rosebud welded in just a couple spots, making them relatively weak there since normally it doesn’t support weight. I still see many tire shops jack the rear there.

As for the lower control arms, they better be able to support the weight without issues, but they could be scratched or gouged. I use a chunk of rubber horse mat I cut to fit the top of my HF floor jack to prevent damage to LCA or the pinch weld jacking points on any vehicle I’ve had.

I have jacked up cars to various truck by the Pumkin and never had any problems. Many do too. Just wondered if there was something about these rears to consider. But the beating these trucks are meant to take, it wouldn’t be a good design if Ford did not really secure the tubes well to the diff section.

I agree, and use a rubberized jack head if I’m lifting from a sensitive area that could get scratched up.

 

[nikhsub1]

Where do you guys jack these things up? My former rig was higher, but had aftermarket engine skid that served as a center point for the front. Does a standard 2/3 ton jack have enough reach to do this on a Raptor? Just for garage maintenance?

I usually jack from the frame, it’s plenty big and lots of it.


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[jintro]

I originally bought a hi-lift to go in the new truck, but after some thought sold it and decided I’ll go with a floor jack on a skid (no casters) instead. That’ll work better in the sand/softer environments I usually drive offroad in. I also believe that whatever I carry should work well for both myself and whoever else might be in need of those tools - the floor jack + factory scissors gives decent versatility for most vehicles/situations IMO. I also occasionally tow a boat or other trailers and the hi-lift would be pretty useless for them.

 

[two24studios]

Another happy Pro Eagle customer here. I went with the 2 ton “OG” version since I really only plan on using it in my garage and likely won’t need the off road tires. It’s the nicest jack I’ve down and built like a beast. Definitely get what you pay for.

 

[Nimrod]

I have a $99.00 aluminum 1.5 ton floor jack from orielly that is small, works great everytime, and easily stores in my tool box. I’m thinking about an RV scissor lift jack. Peeps make brackets for them to mount on the lifting point for a more secure lifting platform and with a socket welded on to the screw part an electric impact can run them up and down pronto. I’m not a fan of adding huge heavy stuff to my truck just because someone said it’s the schnizzle.
Extra weight=bad

ps. The little jack and when needed a block of wood has never let me down.

 

[Nimrod]

FYI. If you keep your hydraulic jack mounted on your truck it’s smart to check them and bleed them occasionally. I’ve more than once had to get my little goofy jack out cause the big Pro-Eagle hasn’t been properly maintained while spending lots of time out in the weather and getting jostled all over Baja