IWE vacuum system upgrades

[Squatting Dog]

I hate vacuum lines period.. If I am going to do it, might as well go all out.. Then master Corey reminded me that unless new fittings or IWE actuator housing are made to accept new flex line fittings. I could be creating potential leaks at the hubs with modifying stock connections.

I was thinking out loud on here after reading the issues with IWE all across the Ford forums. Couldn't sleep one night and mind was racing. This happened to be what I was dwelling on. How to improve this vacuum system..

-Greg

 

[Donk74]

IWE options

Greg

Really like your idea on this. I fought the old version of this system on my Excursion for years till I gave up and installed manual Warn hubs. I think your upgrades will go a long way towards keeping the IWE system on the Raptor working for years.

I must be missing something though. I always though this system works backwards from how you and pirate air are describing??? I thought when the 4X4 is activated the solenoid valve and Check Valve work to blocks off the vent and pulls a vacuum on the hubs through the lines by connecting them to the vacuum reservoir. The vacuum on the actuator diaphragm is what engages the locking ring connecting the axel shafts to the wheels. No vacuum = free wheel, Vacuum = Locked. If I understand pirate air correctly though if there is no vacuum to the hubs they are lock? But I swear when I had my truck up on stands to rotate the tiers the fronts spun freely which to me meant the hubs were not locked even though there was no vacuum (engine off)???? Educate me some more pirate, please

Anyway, I’ve attached a copy of the vacuum line routing of the system for reference. And either way the system works it’s a bad idea to relocate the vent tubes anywhere near the intake track, either air box or CAI tube. So I retract my previous suggestion about tapping into the CAI tube lines. The vacuum of the intake might just be enough screw with the system (oops).

After looking at the microfiche (yea I’m fricking old you young punks, PULL UP YOU DAMN PANTS!!!) of the tube and crawling under my truck, bending up SS tube using the semi ridged OEM plastic crap as a template would be sweet and it would give you the option of using Swagelok compression fitting which would pretty much negate any leak concerns. If you really want to go hog wild you can even get custom flex braided tubing from Swagelok (or others) with the NPT fitting for the hub on one end and the right compression fitting on the other end to connect to the SS tube.

The other think I came across is another option for your vent. McMaster-Carr carries Submersible Breather Vents that will prevent water/liquids from entering the system as well as filtering out particles down to 3 microns. I’ve used these at work on a few NEMA enclosures and they have done their job. Mount one of these on the vent port of the solenoid and your done.

Thanks All

 

[pirate air]

Greg

Really like your idea on this. I fought the old version of this system on my Excursion for years till I gave up and installed manual Warn hubs. I think your upgrades will go a long way towards keeping the IWE system on the Raptor working for years.

I must be missing something though. I always though this system works backwards from how you and pirate air are describing??? I thought when the 4X4 is activated the solenoid valve and Check Valve work to blocks off the vent and pulls a vacuum on the hubs through the lines by connecting them to the vacuum reservoir. The vacuum on the actuator diaphragm is what engages the locking ring connecting the axel shafts to the wheels. No vacuum = free wheel, Vacuum = Locked. If I understand pirate air correctly though if there is no vacuum to the hubs they are lock? But I swear when I had my truck up on stands to rotate the tiers the fronts spun freely which to me meant the hubs were not locked even though there was no vacuum (engine off)???? Educate me some more pirate, please

Anyway, I’ve attached a copy of the vacuum line routing of the system for reference. And either way the system works it’s a bad idea to relocate the vent tubes anywhere near the intake track, either air box or CAI tube. So I retract my previous suggestion about tapping into the CAI tube lines. The vacuum of the intake might just be enough screw with the system (oops).

After looking at the microfiche (yea I’m fricking old you young punks, PULL UP YOU DAMN PANTS!!!) of the tube and crawling under my truck, bending up SS tube using the semi ridged OEM plastic crap as a template would be sweet and it would give you the option of using Swagelok compression fitting which would pretty much negate any leak concerns. If you really want to go hog wild you can even get custom flex braided tubing from Swagelok (or others) with the NPT fitting for the hub on one end and the right compression fitting on the other end to connect to the SS tube.

The other think I came across is another option for your vent. McMaster-Carr carries Submersible Breather Vents that will prevent water/liquids from entering the system as well as filtering out particles down to 3 microns. I’ve used these at work on a few NEMA enclosures and they have done their job. Mount one of these on the vent port of the solenoid and your done.

Thanks All

The hubs default to lock in the event you lose vacuum you still have 4x4. With the engine off/no vacuum the hubs are engaged/locked. It takes vacuum to unlock. The tires will still turn free because the tcase is still in 2x4 (unless you turn the truck off in 4x4), but if you notice the cv shafts will turn when rotating the tire.

Greg, even if all you do is add a filter to the exsisting lines, I think its a worth while mod.

 

[Squatting Dog]

Greg

Really like your idea on this. I fought the old version of this system on my Excursion for years till I gave up and installed manual Warn hubs. I think your upgrades will go a long way towards keeping the IWE system on the Raptor working for years.

I must be missing something though. I always though this system works backwards from how you and pirate air are describing??? I thought when the 4X4 is activated the solenoid valve and Check Valve work to blocks off the vent and pulls a vacuum on the hubs through the lines by connecting them to the vacuum reservoir. The vacuum on the actuator diaphragm is what engages the locking ring connecting the axel shafts to the wheels. No vacuum = free wheel, Vacuum = Locked. If I understand pirate air correctly though if there is no vacuum to the hubs they are lock? But I swear when I had my truck up on stands to rotate the tiers the fronts spun freely which to me meant the hubs were not locked even though there was no vacuum (engine off)???? Educate me some more pirate, please

Anyway, I’ve attached a copy of the vacuum line routing of the system for reference. And either way the system works it’s a bad idea to relocate the vent tubes anywhere near the intake track, either air box or CAI tube. So I retract my previous suggestion about tapping into the CAI tube lines. The vacuum of the intake might just be enough screw with the system (oops).

After looking at the microfiche (yea I’m fricking old you young punks, PULL UP YOU DAMN PANTS!!!) of the tube and crawling under my truck, bending up SS tube using the semi ridged OEM plastic crap as a template would be sweet and it would give you the option of using Swagelok compression fitting which would pretty much negate any leak concerns. If you really want to go hog wild you can even get custom flex braided tubing from Swagelok (or others) with the NPT fitting for the hub on one end and the right compression fitting on the other end to connect to the SS tube.

The other think I came across is another option for your vent. McMaster-Carr carries Submersible Breather Vents that will prevent water/liquids from entering the system as well as filtering out particles down to 3 microns. I’ve used these at work on a few NEMA enclosures and they have done their job. Mount one of these on the vent port of the solenoid and your done.

Thanks All

The vacuum line diagram is incorrect (at least it is different from my truck) Same basic principal... The vent lines come directly from IWE up the spindle to the frame rail right above upper control arms on both sides. these are the open vent lines I am talking about. The vacuum from IWE module holds the diapham against return spring until the driver switches to 4wd. At which point the IWE solenoid changes state and the vacuum is removed. The spring in the IWE presses the diaphram the opposite direction while engaging the cv shafts to the hubs. This movement pulls unfiltered air and everything else into the IWE.. Which in time degrades the IWE diaphram and causes grinding and eventually loss of 4wd.. Once the diaphram is compromised, the crap travels up the vacuum line and trashes the IWE solenoid..

-Greg

 

[Donk74]

Thanks guys

 

[Hockster]

After reading this I agree with Pirate Air. The addition of a filter is a real smart mod IMO. I also think extending the vents higher is a good idea. I haven't looked at many of these systems I think the vents open, meaning there is nothing to stop water or crap or a spider making a nest in it? I remember the older style fuel evap systems had a troubles with the open end vents. Spiders made a nest in and plugged them...

 

[Squatting Dog]

After reading this I agree with Pirate Air. The addition of a filter is a real smart mod IMO. I also think extending the vents higher is a good idea. I haven't looked at many of these systems I think the vents open, meaning there is nothing to stop water or crap or a spider making a nest in it? I remember the older style fuel evap systems had a troubles with the open end vents. Spiders made a nest in and plugged them...

There is nothing except flimsy vacuum line attached to IWE.. Granted it is mounted on top of frame rail. There are no check vales/filters inbetween open end and IWE..

Filter restriction shouldn't matter that much because of the spring on the diaphram. If it was just relying on ambient air pressure to engage the hubs, then filter restriction would be a bigger deal.

Also, I was reading that you can bypass the system by capping off IWE solenoid. This would leave the IWE locked all the time, but wouldn't be in 4WD until you switched the knob and engaging transfercase. I wonder if it would be the same with our trucks (especially 2012s with front torsen). They said Ford/borg warner IWE are just fuel saving devices and save 0.5-1 mpg by not turning front drivetrain.

-Greg

 

[Hockster]

There is nothing except flimsy vacuum line attached to IWE.. Granted it is mounted on top of frame rail. There are no check vales/filters inbetween open end and IWE..

Filter restriction shouldn't matter that much because of the spring on the diaphram. If it was just relying on ambient air pressure to engage the hubs, then filter restriction would be a bigger deal.

Also, I was reading that you can bypass the system by capping off IWE solenoid. This would leave the IWE locked all the time, but wouldn't be in 4WD until you switched the knob and engaging transfercase. I wonder if it would be the same with our trucks (especially 2012s with front torsen). They said Ford/borg warner IWE are just fuel saving devices and save 0.5-1 mpg by not turning front drivetrain.

-Greg

Yep by not turning it you would save mpg's. My biggest concern here would be wearing of parts over the mpg loss...

 

[Squatting Dog]

I was just thinking outloud again... Upgrading/filtering IWE vents should help... Save parts, save gas (woohoo), and increase reliablity..

-Greg

 

[Ruger]

I thought that routing the lines into the cab was a pretty smart idea. With filters on the ends hidden under the dash, you could keep the lines of equal length and nothing would ever get in there.

I don't understand the save gas connection.