IWE tips/tricks/diagnosis??

[rschap1]

Feeling suspicious of an IWE on my 2011 Raptor.
What I thought was a slight rattle in the front end or even wind/road noise getting past door seal, I now suspect may be being made by an IWE while driving.
It is very faint, but I am hoping to take care of it before it becomes worse if it is an issue.
I did do some searching, reading and found some awesome threads

Search results

www.fordraptorforum.com

IWE Gen I issues

I had a place R n R the OG 6.2L for a new stroker 400 with a Whipple 2.9L Supercharger !! Started n tuned great. However, apparent now the axels weren’t spinning in 2wd and heard grinder of some sort ! Was the cv joint spinning around axel. there’s a vacuum line to the wheels which with the...

www.fordraptorforum.com

Along with:

Everything You Wanted To Know About The IWE System...And Then Some - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

2004 - 2008 F150 - Everything You Wanted To Know About The IWE System...And Then Some - After my recent experiences with the complete IWE system i decided to write up a description of the system and troubleshooting. Hope this helps out some people! Maybe this can become a sticky! When the system...

www.ford-trucks.com

Seems to describe everything very well.
(Much appreciated)
Just wondering if any other info, tips, tricks, experiences; that I might be on the look out for.
Sounds like I will start checking the vacuum set up and plumbing, raise the tires and spin to see if anything is going on...
go from there.
Once I noticed and thought it might be IWE, I tried to listen closer while driving and went into 4HI.
Like I mentioned, it is quiet and faint, BUT seemed to stop and go away when in 4WD.
Of course, that makes me extra curious if IWE trouble.

I did have a 2004 Expedition that had issues with 4wd not engaging in cold weather.
Had a few times where I wondered if moisture would freeze in the vent possibly?
Throwing that in too in case there is anything relevant that I should look out for or check that might cause an issue like that too.
Since I never really did figure out the Expedition's problem. Replaced the vacuum solenoid, a few lines, but don't know if it was ever REALLY fixed since only happened when really cold.
Appreciate any help, THANKS !!

 

[bwep]

Vacuum pump is your friend. I found the hose connecting to the IWE on the drivers side leaking (visually it looked fine). Cut half inch off the hose and stuck it back on, problem solved.

 

[rschap1]

Lifted the front end off the driveway yesterday and checked it out a little more.
Driver's side which I was most concerned with seemed OK at first.
Spun tire and wheel forward a bunch and silence.
But when I rotated backwards...click, click, click.
Checked passenger's side to compare, both directions quiet.
Started looking at the vacuum lines to see if anything obvious, but all "looked" OK.
Pulled the dual line off driver's side and it took a LOT of pull to get loose.
To the point of worrying I was going to wreck something.
I will be looking closer and checking more thoroughly before getting to carried away.
Guessing a small vacuum leak could allow what I have happening.
One of my Expeditions did have a broken line under the radiator support years ago.
So I am hoping something easy like that was.
BUT, it is working enough to function.
Engaged and disengaged 4WD a bunch of times.
Both lock and un-lock, just the minimal reverse rotating click click on driver's side.
Time for more detective work.
Appreciate the advice, THANK YOU

 

[rschap1]

I am sure I know this answer, but...will ask anyways.
Anything that can be done to "help" or band aid one of these things?
I have never had on apart or even had to replace one yet.
I am imagining a vacuum diaphragm like a small engine fuel pump moving the splined ring in and out.
Solvent/carb cleaner free things up?
Any Lucas treatment/Slick 50 to lube things up?
Stop Leak to seal things up?



Guessing I am out there a ways, but wondering what next if I do not find any leaks or faulty pieces in the vacuum system.
Again, THANKS

 

[Primez]

Easiest way to diagnose is to lock the IWE. Vacuum is present to disengage the IWE.

There are two simple ways to do this: 4H or pull the vacuum lines.

For the 4H trick, on a straight (or dirt road), just put the truck in 4H.

If you are on pavement and/or can’t get into 4H for whatever reason, pull the hose off the IWEs right at the hub.
This will keep the truck in 2H but will engage the IWEs. Not an issue to do this for diagnostics because that is effectively what the IWE eliminator kits do. (Just be careful with braking, you’ll lose your brake booster too.)

If your noise stops with either of these, then you most likely have an IWE issue. What is not clear, despite this diagnosis, is the source the IWE issue. This confirms an issue but not where… Pulling and plugging the hose will also give you the flexibility to “buy some time” for some more diagnosis and repair.

To determine if it’s a vacuum issue or IWE issue, you’ll need to get a gauge hooked to that same hose. I believe there should be about 14 psi of vacuum pressure. IWE is supposed to engage around 8psi. If you have 8 or less than 8, then it’s a vacuum issue. Most likely check valve. Those are cheap and also easy to test (plug one side with your finger, suck the other. You shouldn’t be able to get any air). Hopefully not a vacuum line issue. I had to replace mine. Wasn’t fun.

 

[rschap1]

I do have a vacuum gauge in my old school tune up kit of tools.
Will have to see if I have correct connectors/adapters to hook up.
Appreciate the specs. and info.
I am used to hearing about this issue as pretty drastic, loud, and damaging.
Mine is so quiet it has been hard to notice.
Hoping I can get something done before it gets real bad.
Winter is coming to my area and I have a list of stuff I want to do while the Raptor is away for the season.
Will have to see if the list gets longer.

THANKS again !!

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

I do have a vacuum gauge in my old school tune up kit of tools.
Will have to see if I have correct connectors/adapters to hook up.
Appreciate the specs. and info.
I am used to hearing about this issue as pretty drastic, loud, and damaging.
Mine is so quiet it has been hard to notice.
Hoping I can get something done before it gets real bad.
Winter is coming to my area and I have a list of stuff I want to do while the Raptor is away for the season.
Will have to see if the list gets longer.

THANKS again !!

mine was quiet or so i thought. it wasnt until after driving along side some k rails on the highway that i could fully hear it. once the sound had something to bounce off of, it was very audible. i would check the hose first. just trace it up the control arm and over the shock. they tend to break in that spot first. one hose is the vacuum line, the other is the vent. trace them both up around the top shock area and you will see one line just ends. first time was just age and heat. i broke one line againwhen replacing the shocks on my truck. they get brittle over time and heat so any movement can cause them to crack. then of course the bonehead i am, was replacing springs on tirinas truck and pinched the line when i bolted the shock back in. im not sure why they used different types of tubing when making these, but i cut back a good amount and ran new rubber lines all the way so as to avoid junctions and reran to avoid my not smart donkey, pinching a line with the shock bolts since it seems im always taking shocks off my truck. if the hoses are ok, then i wonder if you could do a smoke test of some sort? i have always wondered if it would work. that would identify the leak right away, but im sure @FordTechOne will call me an idiot for thinking so because i would probably screw something up by doing a smoke test, or have technical info as to why it wouldnt work. but he probably has the best answer, so dont listen to me. i would always take his advice for tracking it down.

 

[rschap1]

Sounds pretty similar.
I have to pay attention and the echo is what I really catch.
When I detect it I have been shifting into 4WD if just driving straight and not worrying about binding or anything.
Planning to check the hoses out as best as I can when I am able.
Thinking fixing a leak has to be easier than replacing IWE.
Some threads and leaks I have breezed across do mention smoke tests.
Haven't looked into detail too deep yet, but will before tearing the IWE out to replace.
Appreciate the tip on hoses around shock top.
Will start there.
THANKS ! ! !

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

Sounds pretty similar.
I have to pay attention and the echo is what I really catch.
When I detect it I have been shifting into 4WD if just driving straight and not worrying about binding or anything.
Planning to check the hoses out as best as I can when I am able.
Thinking fixing a leak has to be easier than replacing IWE.
Some threads and leaks I have breezed across do mention smoke tests.
Haven't looked into detail too deep yet, but will before tearing the IWE out to replace.
Appreciate the tip on hoses around shock top.
Will start there.
THANKS ! ! !

easier? yes. time consumming? sometimes not. i have dealt with this a few times. one time was the passenger side and i couldnt find the leak anywhere. i spent a very long time searching and searching. finally i found it. it was the hardline that ran across the front of the truck down below the radiator. damn rock gouged it out. while it was an easier fix, i could have replaced 2 iwe in the time it took me to find the effin leak

 

[rschap1]

Hope it doesn't go like that.
I did buy an Expedition that had line leak under radiator.
Looked like it was burnt or melted.
I put a larger diameter hunk of tubing over the bad spot and it worked OK for a long time.
Fingers crossed.