IWE tips/tricks/diagnosis??

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

OP
OP
rschap1

rschap1

FRF Addict
Joined
May 5, 2022
Posts
1,312
Reaction score
1,483
Location
Lowell MI
DAMN
Don't know what to say.
What an AWESOME call ! ! !
Long distance diagnosis :)
Went out to the truck and as soon as I touched the hose(s) running from the IWE upwards...
all the small diameter hard black plastic line/hose snapped, broke, crumbled like potato chip.
Saw a hanger/fastener undone unhooked and thought I would look around that area.
All I had to do was move stuff slightly and it all broke into pieces.
Cobbled things up enough with hoses I had on hand, electrical tape, and zip ties to get things to unlock.
The vent tube is about 8-10 inches shorter than should be, but not planning to submerge soon.
WIll have to do something better soon, BUT...
lifted front end up again and spun tire forward AND backward without and click, noise or anything.
Still have to do a better job on the hoses/plumbing but know I am not going to have to tear the front end apart so much.

:)
:)
:)

When I said BIG thanks before, EVEN MORE now
BIG THANKS !!!
 

The Car Stereo Company

aka grumpy car stereo guy and frf rolodex
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2012
Posts
32,612
Reaction score
23,660
Location
here, on frf
DAMN
Don't know what to say.
What an AWESOME call ! ! !
Long distance diagnosis :)
Went out to the truck and as soon as I touched the hose(s) running from the IWE upwards...
all the small diameter hard black plastic line/hose snapped, broke, crumbled like potato chip.
Saw a hanger/fastener undone unhooked and thought I would look around that area.
All I had to do was move stuff slightly and it all broke into pieces.
Cobbled things up enough with hoses I had on hand, electrical tape, and zip ties to get things to unlock.
The vent tube is about 8-10 inches shorter than should be, but not planning to submerge soon.
WIll have to do something better soon, BUT...
lifted front end up again and spun tire forward AND backward without and click, noise or anything.
Still have to do a better job on the hoses/plumbing but know I am not going to have to tear the front end apart so much.

:)
:)
:)

When I said BIG thanks before, EVEN MORE now
BIG THANKS !!!
glad i was acrually helpful and not a not smart donkey for once.

cant believe not smart donkey is censored(dum)bass)

i cut the plastic hoses off and ran the rubber/silicone lines from the top of the shock area down. theres 2 different sized hoses however the oem has the hoses molded togther side by side. so i went to the hardware store and matched them up and just ran 2 seperate hoses. just dont zip tie them tight or you will pinch the soft line. mine are just tight enough to be held in place.
 
OP
OP
rschap1

rschap1

FRF Addict
Joined
May 5, 2022
Posts
1,312
Reaction score
1,483
Location
Lowell MI
I was shown Forged Off Road replacement kit. Looks awful nice. Looks like it would be easy to replace the whole set up that way.
BUT, saw price @ $200.
Don't really know if I can justify that for my truck.
See factory replacement set @ $50 or so.
Going to try and see how bad the rest of the stuff is between wheel ends and check valve, which is where the kits go to.
I have a pretty good selection now of different hose and tube close to the vacuum and vent sizes.
If I can duplicate enough of the hard crumbling stuff to where factory looks good enough to keep, I will try to just replace what I need to.
SURE DO APPRECIATE the tips and help.
Nice not having to wonder at least.
:)
:)
:)
 

The Car Stereo Company

aka grumpy car stereo guy and frf rolodex
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2012
Posts
32,612
Reaction score
23,660
Location
here, on frf
I was shown Forged Off Road replacement kit. Looks awful nice. Looks like it would be easy to replace the whole set up that way.
BUT, saw price @ $200.
Don't really know if I can justify that for my truck.
See factory replacement set @ $50 or so.
Going to try and see how bad the rest of the stuff is between wheel ends and check valve, which is where the kits go to.
I have a pretty good selection now of different hose and tube close to the vacuum and vent sizes.
If I can duplicate enough of the hard crumbling stuff to where factory looks good enough to keep, I will try to just replace what I need to.
SURE DO APPRECIATE the tips and help.
Nice not having to wonder at least.
:)
:)
:)
anytime. i share when i can..... had this truck since 2013. been through most of what everyone is posting problems about....... except rust. havent had to deal with that.


the rubber lines i got from the hardware store cost me $10-$12 total. i got 4ft of it. used 2ft per side. you could splurge and get 5ft. cause you know...... extra 12inches
 
OP
OP
rschap1

rschap1

FRF Addict
Joined
May 5, 2022
Posts
1,312
Reaction score
1,483
Location
Lowell MI
I think I have the tubing and plumbing OK.
Checked it all over and can't find any other issues now.
A couple "couplers. splices, and repairs and I think it is all sealed up and no leaks.
Dug out my old cheap vacuum gauge and checked all over.
Saw 18" wherever I checked.
In the driveway idling, everything seems to be doing what it is supposed to.
Lift the front end, spins tires, and all good.
BUT...
Still hearing some clicking noise that I am guessing is the driver's side IWE.
Seems to hear it more while suspension is traveling like after a bump in the road and/or turning to the right.
Took another look above the master cylinder yesterday.
Had thoughts of the check valve...?
Puller everything apart up there.
Applied a little suction to the check valve, seemed OK.
All those hoses and tubes seemed alright.
And, I am guessing that the reservoir is OK, but didn't remove that or anything.
All seemed good about 1/2 way to work this morning, though maybe just messing with stuff had helped.
BUT...
started hearing same noise again.
Formerly, as soon as I engaged 4WD, noise would stop.
Took a couple times back and forth today.
???
Getting to wonder more about the check valve....? ? ?
So much fun:)
 

The Car Stereo Company

aka grumpy car stereo guy and frf rolodex
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2012
Posts
32,612
Reaction score
23,660
Location
here, on frf
clicking noise would be something diffrent. a vacuum leak will sound like a tin can rattle. hollow and higher pitch. check your sway bar and ball joints would be the next step i think
 
OP
OP
rschap1

rschap1

FRF Addict
Joined
May 5, 2022
Posts
1,312
Reaction score
1,483
Location
Lowell MI
When it does it and I can hear it, it does have the sound, speed, and rhythm that makes me think it is the splines.
BUT you are correct, I do need to spend a LOT more time and dig into a LOT of stuff on this truck.
Have not dug into a whole since getting it.
Driving it a couple hundred miles home from picking it up across state on Michigan's P.O.S. highways, both caliper mounting bolts rattled off driver's side front, which is same wheel I am suspect of.
I got new bolts and been driving with slightly warped rotor there since (new brakes on the "list").
But, that shows how much time I have really not been able to devote to it.
(Still haven't got to sliding the console back and replace the HVAC blend door actuator either :( )

Heading home from work yesterday, and all the way in this morning, SILENCE.
So not sure what to think or mess with next.
I hate to spend time and $$ repairing something that doesn't need fixing.
My luck doesn't let anything go away or heal itself, I know better than that.
But if this becomes intermittent and has to need more to track down, ARRGG
You would think I should be used to such things.

Keeping an eye on it, well an ear open.
:)
VERY much appreciating the help and advice (
need all I can get)

THANKS again ! ! !
 
OP
OP
rschap1

rschap1

FRF Addict
Joined
May 5, 2022
Posts
1,312
Reaction score
1,483
Location
Lowell MI
One thing that got me curious...
Does the solenoid open up and allow vacuum past to the IWEs for a short time (like a few seconds at start up in 2WD) and then close off with the check valve holding the vacuum and IWEs open?
OR
Is it a constant draw as long as engine is running and 2WD activated?
Most of the diagrams of the system I see show check valves upstream of the solenoid, so I don't think my idea of opening for a few seconds is correct, but I started wondering.
(and that is where trouble usually starts)
:)
 
Top