ICON Vehicle Dynamics - Ford Raptor RXT Rear Suspension System

[ntm]

just installed my rear kit and I'm waiting on the fronts apparently they are on back order for about a week. Once they are all installed what do you recommend for the adjustment for off road use for the front and rear?

Run the fronts with no sway bar, softest setting, and take it easy on the preload. They're overly stiff.
The rear you will have to play with as not many people have the rxt setup yet.

 

[ICONRep]

just installed my rear kit and I'm waiting on the fronts apparently they are on back order for about a week. Once they are all installed what do you recommend for the adjustment for off road use for the front and rear?

Run the fronts with no sway bar, softest setting, and take it easy on the preload. They're overly stiff.
The rear you will have to play with as not many people have the rxt setup yet.

I would not suggest taking the sway bar off at all, that is not a good idea for safety reasons. We have been working hard hard over the last year with the 600lb spring and valving we currently run, and you should be very pleased with the results of these efforts. We run our truck at 26.5" in the front and 27" in the rear (measuring from center hub to stock fender lip) which has worked out well and offers good on and off road manors with lots of adjust-ability. We generally run our front coil overs on S-1 around town and then move somewhere up to 6 off road depending on the type of terrain (bigger g-out terrain will require more damping capability) Regarding the rear tuning there is a guide in the instructions that explains the function of each tube, and set-up recommendations for a few driving scenarios. From there were are always here to help and glad to help you out any time, never hesitate to give us a call.

Let me know if you need any help pm me or call at the shop 951-689-4266

Brad

 

[ntm]

I would not suggest taking the sway bar off at all, that is not a good idea for safety reasons. We have been working hard hard over the last year with the 600lb spring and valving we currently run, and you should be very pleased with the results of these efforts. We run our truck at 26.5" in the front and 27" in the rear (measuring from center hub to stock fender lip) which has worked out well and offers good on and off road manors with lots of adjust-ability. We generally run our front coil overs on S-1 around town and then move somewhere up to 6 off road depending on the type of terrain (bigger g-out terrain will require more damping capability) Regarding the rear tuning there is a guide in the instructions that explains the function of each tube, and set-up recommendations for a few driving scenarios. From there were are always here to help and glad to help you out any time, never hesitate to give us a call.

Let me know if you need any help pm me or call at the shop 951-689-4266

Brad

I found no sway bar and the icon coilovers had less body roll than the stock coilovers with the sway bar.
With the sway bar and icons it was out of control on short square edged braking bumps and whatnot, especially when taken off axis.
Unless you've changed the valving substantially in the last year ?

On a side note, my rear icon 3.0's have been the longest surviving shocks on my truck. I've had to rebuild first a fox 3.0 coilover and now a king 2.5 bypass and the icon 3.0 bypasses are still leak free and maintaining nitrogen pressure.

 

[MTUH3]

I run the Icon 3.0 Coilovers on my truck, set near where @ICONRep suggested on the height. I don't have the number handy, but it would be mid perch, if not a little above. I run everywhere (street, RX course, dirt) with the setting all the way to the H. Personally I did not like the way the front end felt on the S settings. Hard to describe besides "a little spongy or laggy." I am very happy with the feedback the coilovers provide. I have not considered taking off the front sway bar, and do not intend to. Again, I feel it would take away from the feedback I want / feel in the truck.

I have added the Hellwig Rear Sway bar to my truck to. I mention that only to give you an idea of where I want my truck to perform and the feedback I expect.

Each driver has their own expected feedback from the vehicle based on road conditions, expectations, and asselorometer. To each their own. What further drives me from wanting to disconnect the sway bar, on the front, goes back to one of the Robert Racing (IIRC) broke a front sway bar, twice, and both times resulted in lost time during a race. Granted a TT is a different animal, my opinion is that the sway bar is just as important of a performance part, as it is a potential safety part.

 

[ICONRep]

I found no sway bar and the icon coilovers had less body roll than the stock coilovers with the sway bar.
With the sway bar and icons it was out of control on short square edged braking bumps and whatnot, especially when taken off axis.
Unless you've changed the valving substantially in the last year ?

On a side note, my rear icon 3.0's have been the longest surviving shocks on my truck. I've had to rebuild first a fox 3.0 coilover and now a king 2.5 bypass and the icon 3.0 bypasses are still leak free and maintaining nitrogen pressure.

Def have worked hard at it and yes different with a slightly lower spring rate. Never was any big issue at all considering the number of shocks that are out there, but we are always looking to improve and are very happy with what we are putting out.

 

[ntm]

I run the Icon 3.0 Coilovers on my truck, set near where @ICONRep suggested on the height. I don't have the number handy, but it would be mid perch, if not a little above. I run everywhere (street, RX course, dirt) with the setting all the way to the H. Personally I did not like the way the front end felt on the S settings. Hard to describe besides "a little spongy or laggy." I am very happy with the feedback the coilovers provide. I have not considered taking off the front sway bar, and do not intend to. Again, I feel it would take away from the feedback I want / feel in the truck.

I have added the Hellwig Rear Sway bar to my truck to. I mention that only to give you an idea of where I want my truck to perform and the feedback I expect.

Each driver has their own expected feedback from the vehicle based on road conditions, expectations, and asselorometer. To each their own. What further drives me from wanting to disconnect the sway bar, on the front, goes back to one of the Robert Racing (IIRC) broke a front sway bar, twice, and both times resulted in lost time during a race. Granted a TT is a different animal, my opinion is that the sway bar is just as important of a performance part, as it is a potential safety part.

A linked trophy truck is considerably different than a leaf sprung raptor with a shock swap, lol ! Like in no way does anything suspension related translate over.
I can tell you for 100% certain that your truck would be faster offroad with no front sway bar, and a whole bunch faster with no rear sway bar.
As I mentioned, it's not a safety concern at all, as there is less body roll with icons and no sway bar vs the stock shocks with a sway bar.

 

[never_summer]

With the rxt rear suspension and 37's should the rear pinch weld need to be cut/rolled? Is there any interference with over axle exhausts with the up travel?

 

[timmyr]

I bought the springs! Can't wait!

 

[Blackhawk]

any recommendations?

Any recommendations on which leaf to change for a supercharged raptor to reduce wheel hop? I've heard that you want to replace #5 for 10% higher spring rate but I wanted to see what you all thought of this.

I would not suggest taking the sway bar off at all, that is not a good idea for safety reasons. We have been working hard hard over the last year with the 600lb spring and valving we currently run, and you should be very pleased with the results of these efforts. We run our truck at 26.5" in the front and 27" in the rear (measuring from center hub to stock fender lip) which has worked out well and offers good on and off road manors with lots of adjust-ability. We generally run our front coil overs on S-1 around town and then move somewhere up to 6 off road depending on the type of terrain (bigger g-out terrain will require more damping capability) Regarding the rear tuning there is a guide in the instructions that explains the function of each tube, and set-up recommendations for a few driving scenarios. From there were are always here to help and glad to help you out any time, never hesitate to give us a call.

Let me know if you need any help pm me or call at the shop 951-689-4266

Brad

 

[Blackhawk]

Icon engineer response

"The higher rate configurations of the spring are intended for vehicles that are set up with constant additional load such as chase racks, dual spares, ect.

With an unloaded truck going to a higher rate will also make the truck taller by about ½” per 10%rate change. This may make the vehicle taller than you want and the additional height may exacerbate the wheel hope tendency.

The spring however is designed to reduce axle rap in two ways: by removing the stock block the leverage on the spring pack is reduced. And the pack incorporates an additional forward leaf on the top of the pack to reduce axle wrap. The leaf pack in its low rate as shipped will give a big improvement in axle wrap over the stock pack.

Additionally you can experiment with the rebound settings of the rear bypass shock when on the street to further control the wheel hop. By adding rebound control (******** knob in) to the rear shock you can slow the recoil of the spring and dampen the hop. Don’t over do this in the dirt however or the suspension will move to slow and pack up."

Any recommendations on which leaf to change for a supercharged raptor to reduce wheel hop? I've heard that you want to replace #5 for 10% higher spring rate but I wanted to see what you all thought of this.