How Long Can/Will Your Gen1 Last?

[602Raptor]

I ordered mine new in 2013. As of today I've got 50,500 miles and plan on keeping it. Mine has been used. Not as hard as some and harder than others.

I've had the following, common, issues:
New Steering Rack
Entire new rear glass and slider
Replaced all the IWE hose with Silicone after break
Broken green wire in rear door

Overall, and after 7 years, I really like the truck. I've driven a few 2nd Gen's and I just don't really like them as much, although I do like the ease in which they make more power vs a 1st gen.

 

[lka]

I put 120k on the 14 before swapping it. Only issue was the rear end going out but ford put a new one in. Besides that just leaky shocks and one battery lol. Solid truck.

 

[Nesc204]

Very SOLID TRUCK. Mine is a 2011 6.2L. 160, 000 miles and still going. No issues. Had 1 coil pack go out on me at 90, 000 miles and that's it as far as drive train. The plastic parts in the sun roof dry rotted out on me so will be replaced. Rear window defroster crapped out long time ago so I just made a jumper wire to by pass it so I can still get heat to my mirrors

 

[Canuck714]

Its a funny question, since the truck will last a lifetime if you want it to.
I listed mine for sale on Race/Dez a month ago for $46 and immediately got people wanting it...It was more just a feeler, as I have moderate mods and 110,000 miles. After some heavy thought, I decided to keep it for good, knowing that there is no replacement for a gnarly forced induction 6.2L.

In the list of things that I have had to fix or replace so far.
1. Ring and Pinion on Ford warranty at 80k (twice) First time ford installed a 3:73! I knew immediately that something was not right, took it back, had to argue with service cuz the parts tag they had matched a 4:10. Popped the cover and counted teeth...sure enough, wrong gear-set.
2. Replaced shocks with Fox 3.0 dsc set up. Stock shocks were due at 50k
3. Fuse 27 left me dead at the MX track. This forum saved me.
4. Brakes at 88,000 miles. Could have kept going but I had upgraded rotors/pads waiting in garage.
5. U-Joints.. Replaced both 1410 joints with Spicer grease-able units at 105k. No issues, but its a serviceable part and thought it was time.
6. Transmission rebuilt at 88k. Torque converter stopped locking up, i had trans shop rebuild the whole thing with better stuff where we could. Warranty covered.
7. Deavers added at 90k. Stock Raptor lean was getting to me
8. Spark plugs and wires. I had to change heat range for the JDM tune so did the wires as well
9. 1 LED light in grill
10. Replaced 3rd brake light. 2 leds shorted due to water. 100,000 mile before it died

Still on the stock power steering rack, no blend door issues, no headlight or taillight issues, all around this has been a great truck. I use it as a daily, but it also gets used at TRR events as well as the short course that I built for my Raptor buddies here in TX.
#shesakeeper

 

[Nesc204]

Yep. It's an Awesome truck. I read so many problems with Gen 2s but alot of these people have crazy mods so I think just leave it stock and all you have to do is maintain it. All I did was shock rebuilds from Forged Off Road and mid Perch setting. Everything is stock except K&N Filter.

 

[Nesc204]

I plan on restoring mine someday. Hopefully I be able to do it for around 20 grand. I rather put that into it than go to a Gen 2 and have a huge payment for 6 to 7 yrs

 

[Anthony k]

Very SOLID TRUCK. Mine is a 2011 6.2L. 160, 000 miles and still going. No issues. Had 1 coil pack go out on me at 90, 000 miles and that's it as far as drive train. The plastic parts in the sun roof dry rotted out on me so will be replaced. Rear window defroster crapped out long time ago so I just made a jumper wire to by pass it so I can still get heat to my mirrors

Jumper isn’t needed. they still work. The light just doesn’t come on, on the button

 

[Sozzy12]

Jumper isn’t needed. they still work. The light just doesn’t come on, on the button

Good to know

 

[Nesc204]

I will double check that. But the rear window defroster and the heat for the mirrors are in the same loop, with the rear window defroster showing as an open, I'm pretty sure the mirrors didn't heat up. Its been yrs when I did it but within a day or 2 I will reconnect and let Yinz know

 

[Nesc204]

Anthony K is rt. Mirrors got heat. But I reconnected the Jumper cause I dont want the rear window exploding. I was lucky that the contacts burned out before window exploded like what has happened to so many F150 owners