Higher mileage Raptors, it's time to start checking front hubs/bearings.

[Granelli]

My truck has 82k well used miles on it. It's been maintained, doesn't burn oil or drip or anything. Over time, it's lost some of the sharpness, started to vibrate, and handle a little poorly. I swapped out both front hubs and she's back to new feeling in the front. Easy to do in your own garage and well worth it.

To note: Neither hub had any play at all. but upon inspection, both sides had leaked grease out of the sealed bearings.

 

[Sunchild714]

Have you ever experience any IWE issues that could have contributed to some of the issues you were experiencing?

 

[Granelli]

I did update the $15 check valve with the blue one (The factory 18' one was black) just for the heck of it. It did not ever have issues with awd or 4wd and i've used it a lot living in Lake Tahoe. I attribute the wear to being driven more like a sports car then a truck, the mileage, and just general use. The truck has been stage 2 for 50k miles, uses a set of tires a year.

 

[Granelli]

I also found a great benefit (after the cam phaser repairs were completed) to have the truck reflashed by ford. The truck just didn't run as smoothly as it did before the cam phaser issues began and my dealership was able to get it right.

These trucks in my opinion should be very smooth running even on literally bald tires. If it's not, something else is off in the programming, alignment, or front end.

 

[nikhsub1]

I had a wheel bearing eatshit at 32k miles. Swapped it out, smooth as silk.

 

[skidmarcx]

I’ve seen IWE issues in the regular F150s at low mileage (50k and under), I figure it’s just a matter of time before I have to replace mine (I’m currently at 37k miles)

 

[Granelli]

Aside from measuring the poke of the axle shaft. It's very straight forward typical. I just remove the hubs and when one is ready to install, I start the truck to disengage the iwe and slip the new hub on and bolt it in.

 

[nikhsub1]

Aside from measuring the poke of the axle shaft. It's very straight forward typical. I just remove the hubs and when one is ready to install, I start the truck to disengage the iwe and slip the new hub on and bolt it in.

Not needed. At least, not when I did it. I greased the shit out of the gears - slipped the new hub on went all the way on, finger tightened the bolts and that's it. I see no need to apply vacuum to retract the hubs, it's easy to get it on without doing that.

 

[Old-Raptor-guy]

Not needed. At least, not when I did it. I greased the shit out of the gears - slipped the new hub on went all the way on, finger tightened the bolts and that's it. I see no need to apply vacuum to retract the hubs, it's easy to get it on without doing that.

Having replaced over 100 IWE (ironically none on any raptors) I agree 100%. Vacuum not needed and I fail to see the actual point in doing so.

I see the idea behind why, but in practical application I dont see the requirement.

 

[Win Seeker]

On these trucks the hub assembly interfaces with the Integrated Wheel End (IWE). It is critical that the IWE is compressed with vacuum during hub installation to avoid damage to either component. Once the axle shaft is inserted into the wheel bearing, the threaded end needs to be measured for depth within the wheel bearing. It it's too shallow, the splines are not aligned and damage will occur. If CV depth is correct, the axle nut then needs to be torqued to 30 lb.ft. That is of course much lower than a typical axle nut torque spec, which is often 150-300 lb.ft.
^ comment from FordTechOne concerning the wheel hubs. Seems like all of you haven't ran into issues yet, right? Thinking about doing mine soon.