Help please-Turbos just quit

[Adopo]

2018 Raptor 120,000 miles
Cam Phaser issue x 2
Turbos just quit

So last night I passed a vehicle, and I sort of blipped the throttle at the end for some reason, and the wrench light came on. I quickly noted the turbos were dead. No smoke, noise, etc, just quit. No problem, was close to home anyway. Today I did the easy thing, disconnected the negative ground, nothing changed. I have done a search on this forum where I did see where there may be an air or vacuum hose leak, but I have no idea where that would be-which hose and location.

1-If this is a possible issue, can someone please provide a diagram that I can use to find this?

2-What else could it be since there was no noise, smoke etc? It's not like they "grenaded".

I will say this, the local Ford Dealership, Keowee Ford, changed the cam phase prior to 50k, and it started doing it again. They would not change it a second time, after much back and forth said the warranty was out, and that sucks. I just live with the noise, will never do business with them again. If I let it sit for days at a time, it might take a longer turn over to start due to the known cam phaser issue.

Any help would be appreciated, more than likely will take to a local dealership on Monday.

 

[EricM]

My advice is to take a slow video walk around of the truck in when you drop it off.

That way you can easily prove the ding wasn't in the door when you brought it in.

 

[thatJeepguy]

Sounds like limp mode. Timing is likely out of acceptable range. Waste gates are electronic and fully open. They put in shit old part # phasers .

 

[Adopo]

Sounds like limp mode. Timing is likely out of acceptable range. Waste gates are electronic and fully open. They put in shit old part # phasers .

I was afraid of that, you would think that they would have put the correct part in, meaning the corrected version. So now I have to find out when they did it, and if the corrected part was available, and prove to Ford they made a mistake putting the shit part in. Replace a bad part with a bad part. Just aggravating. I was quoted some crazy number for the repair. I've watched the videos, so I know it's a big job.

It's been a fun truck, but maybe I'll go diesel so I can haul my TL6R and boat. Not a Ford thou. I think the only Ford I would want now would be a 65-66 Shelby, 289, 427 Cobra, or Ford GT or GT 40.

 

[GCATX]

Did you pull the codes?

 

[Adopo]

Did you pull the codes?

No, but that would be the logical start right? I will either take it to a parts provider on the way to the dealership, buy one at a parts shop (I assume you can) or see if my friend has one.

What is interesting is that it runs normal, sans the turbos not kicking in. I can cruise at 60 to 70 no problem. When I try to kick in the turbos it's like I am hitting a rev limiter.

 

[Adopo]

Did you pull the codes?

So my friend brought by his blue driver, and it pulled this. Then when I cleared the code it seemed to have pooffffffeddddddd, gone away, no more problem. Hmmm......

Runs normal again.

Here's a photo of the diagnostic

 

[smurfslayer]

check your oil level.

 

[Adopo]

check your oil level.

It’s about half way on the stick between low and full. I was surprised by how burnt looking the stick is. I always have had my oil changed at the dealership. Btw, the manual I think said to change every 10,000 miles? Is that right?

 

[nealhoney]

It’s about half way on the stick between low and full. I was surprised by how burnt looking the stick is. I always have had my oil changed at the dealership. Btw, the manual I think said to change every 10,000 miles? Is that right?

That looks like almost no oil…. It should be near the top of the hashed area.