Heated Wheel Retrofit

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xlover

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Download software from here…


Buy Forscan tool from here or Amazon…


Forscan advise…be sure to backup your modules BEFORE you make any changes.

Last but not least, posts pics of the beast you’re gonna be working on.
Get this forescan tool i mistyped in my post above (now edited)
 

Wolf_Racer

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If you aren’t going to use a new hvac module with the button
-can skip hvac changes (I am 95% sure on this one)
-Need to make apim changes to tell it that the vehicle now has a heated wheel
-Need to make sccm changes to tell the vehicle it has a heated wheel
(can steal these both from the pdf instructions posted in this thread)
-also need to make some additional changes to apim for the soft button: change to unreal theme, enable climate bar, enable heated steering button on climate bar (will need to find those scatted through this thread and forescan thread)
Thanks for your response.

I got my heated steering wheel working tonight! I just put in the clockspring part and soft button. This forum and people were invaluable. Thank you all!
 

MZRaptor

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I wanted to compile everything that I learned about the heated steering wheel retrofit - including some things I thought to be true but that I now know are not true (regarding the digital read out HVAC). Hopefully this post can/will serve as a repository of information for anyone looking to tackle this. I'll try to update this post (or delete it) if the information in it becomes obsolete or inaccurate.

Abbreviations
MY = Model Year
HSW = Heated Steering Wheel
SCCM = Steering Column Control Module
HVAC = Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning (for purposes of this retrofit, refers to the HVAC control module in the dash)
APIM = Accessory Protocol Interface Module
BGGD = Boosted Grey Goose Designs (https://www.boostedgreygoosedesigns.net/)
FDRS = Ford Diagnostic and Repair System
Ford PTS = Ford Professional Technician Society
PN = Part Number
AB = As-Built


What is my truck actually missing?
Nobody can speak for your specific truck with certainty except for Ford. But there are some observed norms seen by multiple people who have done this retrofit:
  • Steering wheel in MY23 Raptors will typically have the heating element. This can be verified after removing the air bag by looking for a particular connector. See photo (screenshot taken from @Andrews video - credit to him)
View attachment 396168
  • Harness is present.
  • The clockspring in MY23 Raptors is the part that was on backorder resulting in the feature delete. There are some reports of people ONLY needing the clockspring and being able to swap it into the stock SCCM. However, most of us have found that the SCCM that came in our trucks was missing pins on the back to connect to the HSW harness. It is safest to replace the entire SCCM, unless you first disassemble your steering column and check for the presence/absence of the pins on the back of the SCCM.
  • The HVAC installed in MY23 Raptors lacks the HSW button. It also lacks the digital temp readout present on previous MYs. There are two Gen3 compatible HVACs that have a HSW button: one has digital temp readout, the other does not.

What do I need?
Again, I can't speak for everyone's specific truck with certainty, but the following parts list should be sufficient for 100% of people trying to do this retrofit. It's possible you may be able to do it with different/fewer parts, but this list *should* always work.
  • SCCM: ML3Z-3F791-BB
  • HVAC (with digital readout): ML3Z-19980-K/ML3T-18C612-D
  • HVAC (without digital readout): NL3Z-19980-S/NL3T-18C612-TB
  • OBDLink EX (or other FORScan compatible OBDLink cable)
  • Latest FORScan software with license
  • Tools needed for dashboard disassembly
  • Tools needed for steering column disassembly (I should note that my steering wheel bolt was actually Torx PLUS TP-50 and not standard Torx T-50. Important to minimize risk of stripping).
  • Steering wheel bolt: W721079-S437 (thanks to @Chop96 for the PN). Technically, Ford PTS states that the steering wheel bolt is single use and should be replaced with a new one. However, I had the help of someone with deep knowledge (significantly higher than dealer technician level) and he said reuse is completely fine as long as it is torqued to spec - 46 foot-pounds per PTS).
Obviously you only need one of the HVAC modules. See below for a discussion as to which one you should buy.

Also, it should be meantioned that instead of sourcing the SCCM and HVAC separately, you can purchase them together (at a really good price) from BGGD as a bundle. They also include a harness that is not needed in the MY23 Raptor. The HVAC included in this kit is NL3Z-19980-S, without digital readout.


Do I need the HVAC/which HVAC should I buy?

Good question.

The answer to question 1 is, NO, the HVAC is not necessary, but you will have to enable the soft buttons on SYNC using Unreal SYNC theme.

Assuming you want a hardware button: there have been many of us, myself included, that have had issues programming the digital readout HVAC. No such reports with the non-digital readout part. Unfortunately, the non-digital readout HVAC is significantly more expensive. That said, if you want to be sure that there will be no issues getting the HVAC programmed with FORScan, I suggest the non-digital readout HVAC.

I did ultimately get the digital readout HVAC programmed, however, it required access to FDRS and a compatible cable (such as a Mongoose cable). Note that the cable and access to FDRS are not cheap. FDRS was able to reprogram the digital readout HVAC to as-built values, after which I was able to make the necessary modifications with FORScan.

Some people have been able to get the digital readout HVAC to accept programming from FORScan directly (using both versions *.50 and *.51), but this was not my experience, and I believe others had similar issues as well. The reason for the inconsistency isn't totally clear to me, but it may have to do with software version on the HVAC. If you have access to FDRS and a compatible cable, I would say it is extremely likely be able to get the digital readout HVAC working. If not, I'd say it's a bit of a crapshoot.


What about programming?

Programming is done with Forscan. It’s imperative that you back up your original as built data for the APIM, HVAC, and SCCM before starting. For good measure, I made backups of all modules and saved them somewhere. Yes you can download your AB data using Forscan but better safe than sorry.

After installing the SCCM and HVAC you’ll want to write your original AB values to those two modules. Then you’ll have to make modifications to HVAC, SCCM, and APIM in order to enable HSW functionality. The best resource for programming is the BGGD spreadsheet. See below.


Has anyone put a guide together to help me pull this off?
  • @Andrews made a video that's extremely helpful. See here: #66
  • Another great video from @SuperSafety here. (He also did the interior ambient light retrofit): #221
  • If you buy from BGGD, you will get a PDF with step by instructions that is extremely helpful. It is particularly helpful for FORScan programming. I've attached those pages to this post. Not sure they'd be happy with me posting the entire PDF.
  • Other users in this thread have done the retrofit successfully and I'm sure would be willing to help - myself included!
  • Some tips from @xlover:
    • Use a cheap craft felt sheet from Amazon to lay over the console and move around as needed to protect parts from scratching.
    • Before disconnecting battery, move seats as far back and down as they go, steering column as far out as it goes, put shifter in down position.
    • Consider a second set of hands when replacing steering wheel bolt, hard to simultaneously get leverage on the torque wrench, hold the wrench in place, and stop the steering wheel from rotating.
    • Triple check the thigh trim pieces (otherwise called "hockey stick" trim pieces). There are three slots to ensure it sits flush to the dash/hvac panel, ensuring the top slot grabs while lining up the lower ones took a few tries. Mistake here leaves an obvious gap next to the hvac panel.
  • Also with regards to the long trim piece that goes the entire length of the dash from the ignition button to the passenger side AC vent, there is a clip that has a tendency to fall out, creating a gap between the trim piece and the "Flag" accent beneath the AC vent. This was identified by @Wichadicha. He also identified a suitable replacement part that you can get from Amazon here. See photo below:

screen-shot-2023-03-09-at-9-24-01-am-jpeg.396708



Miscellaneous
  • While you've got the dash all disassembled, you may want to tackle the ambient light retrofit. It's beyond the scope of this thread, but you can find a great 3 part guide posted by user @FoxNotch in the Gen3 interior forum. Part 1 Part 2 Part 3


Can't edit any more - but want to point out that ML3Z-3F791-HB should be used instead of ML3Z-3F791-BB as multiple users have pointed out problems with the BB PN. Otherwise I think my roundup post remains fairly accurate.
 

ToadSmasher2K1

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So if I’m reading this correctly all I need is ML3Z-3F791-HB and reprogram forscan to get the heated wheel soft button to work?
 

5280Raptor3

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Download software from here…


Buy Forscan tool from here or Amazon…


Forscan advise…be sure to backup your modules BEFORE you make any changes.

Last but not least, posts pics of the beast you’re gonna be working on.
Haven't messed with any Ford programming, but have done a good amount on the VW/Audi platform. Should be just a small learning curve. Thank you for the advice! This is the beauty I just traded my Gen 2 in for.
 

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5280Raptor3

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Got everything installed, just need to do the programming. Does anyone by chance have step by step instructions for the programming? Not too Familiar with Forscan.
 

forbin42

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I just got home from the local Ford dealer parts department and picked up my new housing assembly, and know what I will be doing this weekend. I cannot wait to get heated steering wheel in my new truck! I think I have all the codes ready, and instructions on dismantling things.
 

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