Gen2 shocks/springs/struts non-livewire Roush TAKEOFFS ***VERY LOW MILES****

[PoolManRaptor87]

I have toyed with this Idea for a while.

The reason for me Is there different in length. I don't know how that effects down travel? (Fronts) will there be possible binding? Do they need to be limited with a binder? (If you off-road) Not that any of this is negative just questions that it is tough to get answers too. There is not a good Clear"'how to" on the subject.
I believe @pat247 has had his gen2 on his gen1 running gen1 springs and hat for a while.
So possibly you could tell us a clear "How to" I might be first set sold here.
The rears seem to be Pretty straight forward. "How to"

So at full droop, front wheel hanging in the air, with Gen2 shock AND Spring, my upper control arm ALMOST touched the spring. And I mean 1 or 2mms away. I've gotten the front end off the ground and they don't BANG together or anything, but they are extremely close, much closer than if you were to use the gen1 spring on the Gen2 shock. If you were to use your truck for rock crawling, jumping, extreme off reading, I'd advise at the very least limiting straps, but if you really ride her hard (like a weekend toy not a daily), the Mira Gen2 shock conversion I think is the best route. However there is the option of replacing coil buckets as well, however I'm not crazy about that personally.

 

[PoolManRaptor87]

I'm one of the 8 sets sold locally.
Good seller

Appreciate you chiming in bud! Glad your enjoying your set!

 

[pat247]

So at full droop, front wheel hanging in the air, with Gen2 shock AND Spring, my upper control arm ALMOST touched the spring. And I mean 1 or 2mms away. I've gotten the front end off the ground and they don't BANG together or anything, but they are extremely close, much closer than if you were to use the gen1 spring on the Gen2 shock. If you were to use your truck for rock crawling, jumping, extreme off reading, I'd advise at the very least limiting straps, but if you really ride her hard (like a weekend toy not a daily), the Mira Gen2 shock conversion I think is the best route. However there is the option of replacing coil buckets as well, however I'm not crazy about that personally.

Like you I have looked at the clearance between the spring and UCA, no marks on spring to indicate it has ever touched but it looks close. Many miles over many different road conditions and the Raptor has handled it with ease.

 

[PoolManRaptor87]

Like you I have looked at the clearance between the spring and UCA, no marks on spring to indicate it has ever touched but it looks close. Many miles over many different road conditions and the Raptor has handled it with ease.

I wouldn't ever consider swapping gen1 2.5s back in, for any reason. Ride quality and longevity of shocks just doesn't compare to the gen1 equipment.

 

[PoolManRaptor87]

Bump

Still have full sets and front only sets for sale!

 

[Lucke1113]

Are these still available? I sent you a PM with zip code for shipping estimate.

 

[PoolManRaptor87]

Are these still available? I sent you a PM with zip code for shipping estimate.

Yes they are! Just seeing your message now. Will shoot that shipping quote asap.

 

[LoganR]

Just curious, what is different from a brand new set from rockauto/etc?

 

[PoolManRaptor87]

Just curious, what is different from a brand new set from rockauto/etc?

Pretty sure Rock auto does not currently have Gen2 OEM Fox 3" internal bypass shocks for sale. They do have gen1 2.5" internal bypasses for sale. While they are different, they are also very similar. However with the added diameter shock they tend to last allot longer when used on road. However, technically, both gen1 2.5s and Gen2 3s have the same suggested rebuild internals from fox. However, as many people have experienced and documented, Gen2s last much longer, especially on road, compared to gen1s. Guys that have the money are replacing/rebuilding gen1 shocks every 20-40k. I don't have the time or money for that, like others, I put too many miles on me truck on a regular basis. My first and only set of rebuilds started to ride like shit after 20k, needed to be removed at 25k for safety reasons. Im at just under 70k on my current set of gen2 shocks, 50k with gen1 spring(near mid perch), last 18k on Gen2 spring(closer to high perch height). Shocks still riding like new at almost 70k. I have another set of gen2 shocks ready to throw on when the current set crap out, so I'll be letting everyone know when that does happen. Patiently waiting for the day.
On road, the Gen2 sets I purchased, Roush take offs, with no miles, have blown away what the other guys get for milage out of new rockauto gen1s or rebuilds. Gen2s are just a much better shock. Like most things they get better with time and R&D. Only downside is putting Gen2 shocks on a Gen1 without investing in "buckets or the Mirka shock conversion" you DO LOSE ROUGHLY 1" OF UPTRAVEL/ARTICULATION. Which means nothing for an on road vehicle. However means ALLOT to the guys racing around the desert on a regular basis. Or rock crawling, or anything requiring full articulation. All gen1 owners I've sold to were street trucks wayyyyy over their service intervals, driving LITTERALLY unsafe vehicles, nervous about replacing or rebuilding to only have 20-40k before needing to do so again. Which is understandable. That's why I went the Gen2 path, as well as many others.
But to answer your question again, I'm 99% sure Rock auto does not have the shocks I'm selling in stock. As they are no longer in production, and very hard to come bye. Never mind finding them almost new with no miles on them.

 

[LoganR]

So are these the Gen 1 shocks?