Geiser vs Eibach vs Collar
- Thread starter Leftsidej
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
So does that mean that 17-18 need the 2.5” to level out the truck and 19-20 needs the 1.7” to level?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What tire are you running? Curious to see what these trim jobs look like in order to keep full performance out of the suspension in this truck. 37’s to handicap this truck otherwise wouldn’t make sense. Same idea as doing a lift. I know it works for a mall crawler only.
Mickey Thompson mtzp3. I love my truck with 37s! Eats up holes much better with bigger tires. I don’t have a pics of what i trimmed but I’m sure if you search on here you will find Info
RADvelociRaptor
Full Access Member
that just solved my question regarding going up to 37" tires... this forum group is great
37’s surely would be a top upgrade. Not much to mod it seems, but the things that needs to be done are key.
RADvelociRaptor
Full Access Member
that’s the big key! I’d prefer not to trim much. I’m hoping wit the ADD pro bolt on that there shouldn’t be much else
Sorry to revive this thread. I'm doing it so folks who stumble on it don't leave with the impression that the mods being described will make 37s a good idea. They won't.
I made the very stupid mistake of installing an EZ-Lift kit on my 2018 because the reputable shop and EZLIft claimed the truck would run 37s with that set up. I had a set of new, studded, 17x37 Grapplers I'd taken off my Jeep, so I figured I could install this kit, buy some 17' wheels with the right offset, and I'd be good to go.
The EZLift netted just over 2.5" of lift up front. The 37" Grabbers rubbed on the back of the fender wells on both sides, even after trimming plastic., and even without weight in the truck or compression. It was late when the installation was done, so I had to leave fixing this problem to another day.
The Raptor drove noticeably worse with the 37s, which were significantly heavier. The truck accelerated more slowly, steering was heavy, and I couldn't even turn into a Walmart parking lot without a loud Brrrrrap! from the rubbing. I could have hacked the crap out of the truck, hammered back the pinch-welds, and then cut and raised the fenders to make the truck run 37s without rubbing around town, but making the truck capable of running 37s while running hard or jumping would require much more than that. (There are several videos online about this, including one entitled "Don't Ruin Your Raptor!" You can do it all right for $25,000 to $30,000, or make it work with a LOT of hacking. Neither solution worked for me.)
I ordered a set of 35" studded Duratracs to mount on the new wheels, and put the 37s back on the Jeep. Now I have to take off the crappy EZLift and pony up for quality front and rear springs -- which is why I came to this thread.
I've been lifting Jeeps and Trucks for over 40 years, so I felt pretty comfortable with moving to 37s on the Raptor, as a 2.5" jump in tire size isn't that much when you’re starting with 34s. That jump made very little difference on my Wrangler JL, or my last F350 diesel, but it completely changed the Raptor. Rubbing, much worse ride, less power, heavier steering, and if the lie-o-meter is right, about a 3 mpg loss in fuel economy. I'm very glad to be back on 35s. (And looking at the trucks above, I think the 35's actually look better with the slight lift, but either way, I'd choose function/performance/utility over looks every day of the week.) By the time I figure in labor, this was a $1500 mistake. I should have done more reading...
I made the very stupid mistake of installing an EZ-Lift kit on my 2018 because the reputable shop and EZLIft claimed the truck would run 37s with that set up. I had a set of new, studded, 17x37 Grapplers I'd taken off my Jeep, so I figured I could install this kit, buy some 17' wheels with the right offset, and I'd be good to go.
The EZLift netted just over 2.5" of lift up front. The 37" Grabbers rubbed on the back of the fender wells on both sides, even after trimming plastic., and even without weight in the truck or compression. It was late when the installation was done, so I had to leave fixing this problem to another day.
The Raptor drove noticeably worse with the 37s, which were significantly heavier. The truck accelerated more slowly, steering was heavy, and I couldn't even turn into a Walmart parking lot without a loud Brrrrrap! from the rubbing. I could have hacked the crap out of the truck, hammered back the pinch-welds, and then cut and raised the fenders to make the truck run 37s without rubbing around town, but making the truck capable of running 37s while running hard or jumping would require much more than that. (There are several videos online about this, including one entitled "Don't Ruin Your Raptor!" You can do it all right for $25,000 to $30,000, or make it work with a LOT of hacking. Neither solution worked for me.)
I ordered a set of 35" studded Duratracs to mount on the new wheels, and put the 37s back on the Jeep. Now I have to take off the crappy EZLift and pony up for quality front and rear springs -- which is why I came to this thread.
I've been lifting Jeeps and Trucks for over 40 years, so I felt pretty comfortable with moving to 37s on the Raptor, as a 2.5" jump in tire size isn't that much when you’re starting with 34s. That jump made very little difference on my Wrangler JL, or my last F350 diesel, but it completely changed the Raptor. Rubbing, much worse ride, less power, heavier steering, and if the lie-o-meter is right, about a 3 mpg loss in fuel economy. I'm very glad to be back on 35s. (And looking at the trucks above, I think the 35's actually look better with the slight lift, but either way, I'd choose function/performance/utility over looks every day of the week.) By the time I figure in labor, this was a $1500 mistake. I should have done more reading...
Last edited:
Similar threads
