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thatJeepguy

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Thats a good question. From 4.10-4.56 isn't a huge jump. But will likely get you 10th back. When gearing up you have to consider your priorities and usage case. The more aggressive play is 4.88 If you want more low end grunt to climb and tow and just overall have more snap off the line, run a lot of sand and want more wheel speed? go 4.88. It will be at the expense of some fuel milage and higher rpm’s on the highway( or as you mentioned drone). 4.56 is a bit more mild, basically restores final stock ratio to lock out in 10th. Fuel milage might actually improve. But idk what your goals are.
I will add, this is the unsung beauty of these new 8-10 speed transmissions…. Even without a regear they adapt and compensate really well. Back in the day with 4/5/6 speeds you were cooked!
 

416wgt

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RaceUV

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Since this thread has had a TON of great info thanks to Geoff I wanted to add one more tid bit. I was at Suncoast yesterday and we did some experimenting. Their billet 10R80 flexplate (that they usually market for Coyotes) is a direct fit for our 3.5’s!!!! Also, the Coyote ARP flexplate bolts are a direct fit as well! Drove mine 200 miles on the new set up last night.

Not trying to sound like a corn dog but if you guys need transmission stuff I really haven’t ever worked with a company that I like better than Suncoast!
 

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full-race geoff

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We’ve been head down on Gen 3 development. My big news in this update is Full-Race acquired a 37 + recaro Gen 3 (we have a soft spot for no sunroof raptors). the amount of work in store for this truck has everyone at Full-Race excited
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This necessitated thinning the herd slightly so I sold my S14.5 last week:

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And selling my old F150 Ecoboost this week:

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It’s been an awesome truck. Incredibly reliable with big turbos installed on day 1
 
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full-race geoff

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more progress and pics from the Gen 2.5-

My absolute favorite oem brake rotor and pad is Raybestos r300 rotors and their ceramic pads:

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BUT we discovered an oops when the wheel is tightened on the lugs. The gen 3 wheel bearing is so much larger that the wheel bearing ‘mounting ears’ to the spindle will rub on the Raybestos brake rotor ID when lug nuts are torqued (fyi I don’t know if all pre-2020 rotors will rub like this on a gen 3 rap )

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so I barely gently trimmed the wheel bearing mounting ears to give the Raybestos rotor hat the room it needed to spin freely under clamping force

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Next I cleaned the firewall with denatured alcohol to remove any grease. Then I carefully applied gold heat-rejecting foil. This stuff can drop temps 600F across 3mm air gap. It is incredibly tough and also firmly holds together the aging firewall insulation on this truck.


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Slightly unrelated - we needed an extra gen 2 mockup motor in the shop so I got a junkyard motor and for fun I tore it down. I was appalled to see they installed a metal oil pan without changing the pickup. This is the 2nd time I’ve seen this, atrocious mistake that blocks and dents the oil pickup tube:

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full-race geoff

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Next I did an experiment using Gen 3 turbo to manifold bolts (inconel on left) to fasten SPD downpipes I had laying around. First I ported the SPD downpipes to match full race turbo adapter ID (this took a while). Next I replaced the SPD mild steel hardware (on right, allen socket cap screw). I shortened the overall length to prevent bottoming (in retrospect i could have also installed heicolock rotation resistant washers instead of cutting ... will do that next time)
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this is the part number for them:

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Photo of the SPD downpipe with inconel gen 3 turbo mounting hardware.


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I expect these would help anyone using the knockoff SPD downpipe from cv fab also

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I Got to go mountain biking last weekend, took the gen 3 to epic trails in Prescott (Mingus mountain). I love riding in AZ !!

And I got to surf in NJ:
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full-race geoff

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There’s so much changing that I decided to start the chassis setup as simply as possible with minimal variables introduced. The shock valving is really the only thing chassis related that’s not gen 3:

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As far as springs go, OEM gen 3 front and rears coils are progressive rate (for better or worse) so it’s a starting point although I will likely switch to linear rate in the future. For now the rear shocks will go to Tsw in AZ for a revalve

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One thing I did not like is the amount of preload that the gen 2 eibach springs apply. This loads the damper and the strut tower quite hard at ride height. So I swapped the oem gen 3 spring up front in place of the eibach

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I was expecting a lower ride height - surprised at how much lift Oem Gen 3 springs gave the Gen2

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No front bumper, intercooler, skid plates or side steps yet so probably 400lbs underweight may be a factor
 
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full-race geoff

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these are from a 35" raptor. i think the gen 3 longer shock length and longer spring gets slightly preloaded on these gen2 shocks causing the lift. however at $70 for a front spring its a cost effective and better solution than eibach IMO
 
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