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full-race geoff

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At this point everything is re-installed except front suspension and cab.

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this week I am going to go through a number of things on the tired stock engine to buy me some time. I plan to first get the chassis sorted while I figure out the new engine build.

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^^Driveshaft flange that’s needs to get swapped

Can barely feel my hands. was a great weekend
 
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Zeusmotorworks

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this was one of those rare weekends that I could set my phone to do-not-disturb and pump out work. THANK YOU RPG - they came through with the slotted front lca plate and frame doubler plate. I was about to move forward without plating and the package arrived just in time - thank you very much if you're reading this. I requested the slotted front LCA plates, and drilled them so I can use eccentric cams.

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I drove into shop @ 6am saturday morning and pulled the bed first. Then we pulled the cab, it took 2 hours <<the flying wrenches cab pull youtube video is great btw>>.


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This was followed by exhaust, driveshafts, engine/trans, fuel tank, brake lines and wiring harness. It all swapped over, can now tell you with certainty the generation 3 frame + axles is 98% plug and play.

**Rear driveshaft flanges are different** was the only oops surprise and luckily I had a gen 3 flange on a shelf already, need to swap it out this week. Minor drilling and tapping of M8 was needed for grounds and various harness tabs. ABS bracket needed an M8

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Everything was examined closely before reinstallation and there were some problems. both motor mounts were shot (will post a photo to show). Replacing with Gen3 motor mounts - they are nicer looking, unsure if stronger? Also front diff bushings completely destroyed. I have a lot to say about this, will save for another post.

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VERY interested as at 80k I have (heard) movement under the front end that all new ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, and swaybar end links did not quiet.
 

91Eunos

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Nice!

Sorry I missed you on Friday when I popped by to grab my loot. If I knew you were gonna do the cab off this weekend, I would have stuck around to help…and learn. Now that I’m back from PHX, I’m going to get started on the cab removal on my truck some time this week.

Probably for the best that I didn’t stick around though, as I likely would have wound up going to Barrett Jackson and spending half my retirement. Something I was seriously trying to avoid with my poor impulse control! LoL

Seriously though, your team was awesome and even helped me get everything loaded tetris-style into my son’s truck!

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Fuel pump and injectors were waiting for me by the time I got home too. Now I just need to find the time to actually do the engine R&R.

Thanks again @full-race geoff for blazing the trail on this conversion/update for our Gen 2 trucks, and for continuing to imspire those of us following in your footsteps.
 

RaceUV

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verything was examined closely before reinstallation and there were some problems. both motor mounts were shot (will post a photo to show). Replacing with Gen3 motor mounts - they are nicer looking, unsure if stronger? Also front diff bushings completely destroyed. I have a lot to say about this, will save for another post.
DANG!

I am seriously curious about the mounts and what you have to say about that diff bushing. That thing is toast! You should post up some comparison pictures of the motor mounts. Congrats on making some serious progress!

Also,

Interesting note on the oil pump front. I used my Forscan to data log oil pressure. At 114K miles my Gen 2's oil pressure will regularly bounce between 15 and 25psi....I was less than enthused. I pretty much determined that unless you are leaning into the throttle pretty hard my engine is seeing 15-20psi 98% of the time I am driving. :emotions122:As of now my ride is 100% stock and I noticed that the stock tune file seems to be set up to shut the oil pressure relief valve at a certain TPS percentage. Whenever I hit that limit the oil pressure will instantly shoot up to 60-80psi. Is this what you guys have seen with the factory tune file? Do we know if we can shut the oil pressure relief solenoid off in the tune with HP tuners/COBB/EZ Lynk?
 
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full-race geoff

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Hey everyone, thanks for the kind words. It’s been a busy week, just finished filming our Bronco turbo kit installation. We devised a new RnR procedure that saves a ton of time and effort on the install - awesome little engine with an iron block! I wish the f150 turbos could be swapped that quickly and easily.
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On my gen2.5 project I got a few items knocked out
-rear driveshaft flange swapped out to gen 3, fully installed

-new trans mount installed

-wrapped up rear axle wiring, rear brake lines and Raybestos ceramic pads/rotors
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- minor detail: I discovered the Gen 3 3.5L engine has a metal mount for the intake tube/airbox. The Gen 2 is plastic and tends to crack/break off. I had a spare Gen 3 engine here so I swapped the metal bracket. It’s really inspiring to find all these small details ford improved with the Gen 3

VERY interested as at 80k I have (heard) movement under the front end that all new ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, and swaybar end links did not quiet.
Here are the failed motor mounts, they are completely seperated and failed/debonded from the metal lug. I have a hunch the 5.2L raptor R mounts are beefier and will bolt in (i dont have enough time to dig that part# up this week):
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Also worth noting that Ford updated the diff bushings for the 2024 raptor to now use a Green color front diff bushing Part #: NL3Z3A443B.
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The older gen 2 raptors used an f150 bushing (black color) that obviously can fail Part #: NL3Z3A443A
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I am going to order some green bushes and hopefully swap all front diff mountings over. I also have a clever diff brace in mind, will tackle that after the truck is running


Thanks again @full-race geoff for blazing the trail on this conversion/update for our Gen 2 trucks, and for continuing to imspire those of us following in your footsteps.
Hey Rob I want to say thank you for trusting full race. I’m sorry I missed you, would love to shake your hand next time you’re in town
Interesting note on the oil pump front. I used my Forscan to data log oil pressure. At 114K miles my Gen 2's oil pressure will regularly bounce between 15 and 25psi....I was less than enthused. I pretty much determined that unless you are leaning into the throttle pretty hard my engine is seeing 15-20psi 98% of the time I am driving. :emotions122:As of now my ride is 100% stock and I noticed that the stock tune file seems to be set up to shut the oil pressure relief valve at a certain TPS percentage. Whenever I hit that limit the oil pressure will instantly shoot up to 60-80psi. Is this what you guys have seen with the factory tune file? Do we know if we can shut the oil pressure relief solenoid off in the tune with HP tuners/COBB/EZ Lynk?
Exactly! You understand my displeasure with the oem oil lump. This saves 0.01 mpg and is just not worth it IMO. I am not aware of any way to turn the solenoid off. Thats why i want to experiment with installing a dummy solenoid. Took a look at it tonite and need to get a donor oil pump to test the theory out (i sent my spare oil pumps to boundary for development)

Starting tomorrow afternoon I have 1.5 days of mad wrenching until my normal adult life resumes. Hope to keep progressing, will post up Sunday with where things stand
 
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full-race geoff

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does anyone know how to buy Front prop shaft bolts? They are one-time-use and self destruct upon removal. However ford decides they will only sell WITH A DRIVESHAFT?!?! completely ridiculous

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Drive Shaft Mount Bolt - Ford (7L1Z-4B496-C)​

Not for Sale​

No Longer Available For Purchase
 

Zeusmotorworks

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Here are the failed motor mounts, they are completely separated and failed/debonded from the metal lug. I have a hunch the 5.2L raptor R mounts are beefier and will bolt in (i dont have enough time to dig that part# up this week):
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Sooooo of course now I HAVE to ask if you have an idea planned for an upgrade to these? A quick google search showed no aftermarket parts. Reminds me of an old friend of mine who had the same problem with his 11sec GT3000VR4 back in the day. I believe he just kept swapping out OEMs to keep it livable on the street. I'd resigned myself to the same.
 
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full-race geoff

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Full Race only focuses on turbocharger related innovation. I agree the motor mounts could definitely be improved, and hoping i can stay OEM with the Raptor R mounts. Aftermarket motor mounts tend to vibrate and rattle harshly, trying not to build a race truck (yet)
 
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