FRONT END STILL GRINDIND AFTER RCV INSTALL

[letsgetthisdone]

That piece of metal locks the axel to the hub. how? That I don't know. but that is what happens. What could go wrong? lots depending how the hub is now married to the axel. In the old days Not all manual lockouts were/are created equal. You are dealing with the same thing. except you can't turn it off. witch will cause more wear to everything from the transfer case forward. and I mean everything. driveshaft, Unjoint, pinion, ring, spider, axel, your lock up, hub. think I got them all. well.... seals.

You're making reliability comments and calling something junk, yet you don't even know how it works...LOL

The RCV is a splined collar, just like the IWE uses a splined collar, which locks the hub and shaft together. Its the "same" as an IWE, except it is longer for full spline engagement, and doesn't move. The components you think it can cause "excess" wear to are designed to be used. Ford offers the truck with AWD mode, so those components are built around the possibility of the truck being driven in AWD a lot or all of the time depending on where someone lives. So having the IWE deleted does not adversely effect anything.

OP, you'll have to get the truck on a lift or off the ground and do some inspecting to see whats going on.

If you have't drivem it much, make sure the RCV sleeves are ocrrectly seated, and pop the little cap out of the center of the hub and make sure the axle nut is tight (this doesn't need to be ugga dugga'ed, you'll break the axle snout, its only 30ftlbs), also check the axle is in all the way-

1. NOTICE: Measure the depth of the CV shaft threaded end to the inner bearing race (shown in illustration). The minimum depth is 15.5 mm (0.61 in). If the depth is less than 15.5 mm (0.61 in) rotate the CV shaft to clear a binding condition between the IWE and CV splines. Installing the axle nut and tightening without the proper depth of protrusion will result in damage to the IWE .
   Measure the CV shaft threaded end to the inner bearing race.

 

[Gumby]

You're making reliability comments and calling something junk, yet you don't even know how it works...LOL

The RCV is a splined collar, just like the IWE uses a splined collar, which locks the hub and shaft together. Its the "same" as an IWE, except it is longer for full spline engagement, and doesn't move. The components you think it can cause "excess" wear to are designed to be used. Ford offers the truck with AWD mode, so those components are built around the possibility of the truck being driven in AWD a lot or all of the time depending on where someone lives. So having the IWE deleted does not adversely effect anything.

OP, you'll have to get the truck on a lift or off the ground and do some inspecting to see whats going on.

If you have't drivem it much, make sure the RCV sleeves are ocrrectly seated, and pop the little cap out of the center of the hub and make sure the axle nut is tight (this doesn't need to be ugga dugga'ed, you'll break the axle snout, its only 30ftlbs), also check the axle is in all the way-

1. NOTICE: Measure the depth of the CV shaft threaded end to the inner bearing race (shown in illustration). The minimum depth is 15.5 mm (0.61 in). If the depth is less than 15.5 mm (0.61 in) rotate the CV shaft to clear a binding condition between the IWE and CV splines. Installing the axle nut and tightening without the proper depth of protrusion will result in damage to the IWE .
   Measure the CV shaft threaded end to the inner bearing race.

View attachment 467979

First I didn't call them junk... I don't think. How they work I am well aware of......The exact particulars not so much. if you want to spin all your stuff all the time that is up to you. If you think you are not causing more wear on parts. That don't have to spin. You are Wrong. I wouldn't use them.... if you want to that is fine with me. if you come here an ask why my truck is grinding? and you been spinning parts for 30k that that were not really meant to have the miles you put on them. I will still more than likely respond the same. and still try to help you get to the bottom of what you might have wore out.

 

[Chewie]

you can hear the noise left front moving forward, left front forward, then I back up, where you can really hear it

Suggest pulling the driver’s side axle shaft out and inspect for damage/binding before throwing more money at parts. Check the cup and bearings/rollers on the axle, it will be apparent where the binding is, lots of brake cleaner will be your friend.

 

[EricM]

How is spinning a part wearing it? Maybe wearing the bearings at most? Bearings are literally designed to spin.

The 97-03 F150s were connected at the drivers side, which drove the diff and driveshaft. It was disconnected at the T-case and midway on the right side axle.

There were no issues on those 4WD systems at all- other than the vaccum actuaor for the axle disconnect could fail. You could order it with a manul shifter to not have that setup- or put a manual cable in place of the vaccuum setup. Either way, you could be 100% sure it'd always work.

Ford went to the IWEs to save fuel, it had nothing to do with reliabilty of the front axle componenets.

 

[Gumby]

How is spinning a part wearing it? Maybe wearing the bearings at most? Bearings are literally designed to spin.

The 97-03 F150s were connected at the drivers side, which drove the diff and driveshaft. It was disconnected at the T-case and midway on the right side axle.

There were no issues on those 4WD systems at all- other than the vaccum actuaor for the axle disconnect could fail. You could order it with a manul shifter to not have that setup- or put a manual cable in place of the vaccuum setup. Either way, you could be 100% sure it'd always work.

Ford went to the IWEs to save fuel, it had nothing to do with reliabilty of the front axle componenets.

I do agree with the fuel milage thing. I have 340k on the big truck 02 f250. I Have done the rear u joints twice pinion bearing once. Getting a little Roar now going to need outer axel wheel bearings..soon I have Never done anything to the front. I wonder if it because I keep the front axel locked out? YES. The front axel might have 1000 miles on it. Do you think that is coincidence? LOL I don't. I don't spin unless I get out and lock in the hubs. I have done the front wheel beings twice. If you don't think spinning all the stuff causes wear. spins yours. I am fine with it. I will not be leaving either truck locked up. WHY? Because I am the guy who has to fix it when it wears out or breaks. To be clear not the guy that has to Pay to get it fixed. The actual guy that has to fix it. LOL

 

[EricM]

Your anecdotal story about your F250 is just that- one truck, one story.

The 97-03 F150 system covers millions of trucks, and the fact is- the front axles did not need constant service.

In fact, the 97-03 trucks need LESS service than the 09-14 setup. By far. The only thing the 09-14 system achieves over the 97-03 "spin it all the time" setup is better MPGs, but it comes at the cost of reliablilty. You cannot count on the 09-14 system to work when you need it.

 

[Gumby]

Your anecdotal story about your F250 is just that- one truck, one story.

The 97-03 F150 system covers millions of trucks, and the fact is- the front axles did not need constant service.

In fact, the 97-03 trucks need LESS service than the 09-14 setup. By far. The only thing the 09-14 system achieves over the 97-03 "spin it all the time" setup is better MPGs, but it comes at the cost of reliablilty. You cannot count on the 09-14 system to work when you need it.

You do you.

 

[TomDirt]

This is a very informative video on how to check the entire system for vacuum leaks, using just a Mityvac pump.

 

[Gumby]

This is a very informative video on how to check the entire system for vacuum leaks, using just a Mityvac pump.

I am not sure why he can't or doesn't think he can count on the 09-14 four wheel system working. The default is locked up. Unplug the vacuum and it is locked up. It is so easy a cave man can do it..... but if he thinks spinning all the parts is the best way. who am I to say he is wrong? It is a very simple system the vacuum lines are cheep and easy to replace. 50 bucks and about 15 min to do. I have done 3 sets. 2 IWE"s really easy work. I haven't had to do my own IWE. I did do new vacuum lines. No need to worry according to him spinning doesn't cause any wear. IMO that is wrong.
I did a post on how to check your system on here also.

 

[TomDirt]

I think that damage occurs when you have a slow leak on 1 side. That causes one hub to partially engage and chew up the splines since the vacuum level changes when turning. At that point, the safest choice is to just switch to 4wd and fix it later. Replacing the IWE is not fun.