First Oil Change Tips Needed

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Frank N

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Don't forget you'll need a 10mm socket to remove the oil drain access panel and a T-40 to remove the oil filter access panel. I also use a 1/4 impact Milwaukee gun to speed up removal and re-installing bolts once hand started. I have the 3/8" socket T-40.

Also a 3/8" hose is what works on the Fumoto F107N valve, I just used a zip tie to leave it attached and like another member posted just put the hose in the drain pan and open the valve.

I also installed the little plastic lock which isn't really necessary but it was cheap enough and is a little added security that the valve will stay closed. As long as you properly push the lever all the way back it seats and like I stated you really don't need the plastic lock.


1/4" impact makes it a lot quicker and easier job, I'd also recommend anti-sieze on the bolts every couple of oil changes for those who see salt in winter...or in summer on the beach.
 

FlaRod

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When should I do my first change? I am at 2,300mi and was thinking of doing it before the manufacturer first suggested oil change

I have a standing rule, that when I buy a new vehicle, I take it to the dealership to get the first oil change between 1,000 - 1,500 miles. I figure that while the engine is breaking in, there is some shavings that shake loose, and I don't want to drive long on that oil. Some people on here will disagree or possibly laugh, but it has served me well:) Of course I hardly every keep a vehicle past a few years, so....... I guess I will never know if doing the first oil change then actually matters or not:) But, I feel good about it.
 

txgunsntrucks

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wow gentleman.

is it more messy than most oil changes. yep.
is it life changing. no

what I learned was put a little bit of plastic under the car to help clean up anything that drops on the ground easier. and that's about that. you can get large plastic rolls at home depot for like $1.50

oh yeah and if you can't crawl under the truck without jacking it up the first priority is losing some weight. jacking it up is not needed for the vast majority

and they guy that said get a 1/4 impact is right.

one of the first purchases for anyone doing their own work should be

1/2 drive impact wrench
1/4 drive impact wrench
1/4 drive impact driver (there is a difference between the two)
 
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Change my oil every 5k
1st remove the small drain access cover (if you don't offroad leave it off less to remove next time)
2nd remove oil drain plug, mine is plastic so simple twist out, or because I replaced with a fumoto threaded into a yellow plug, open valve, works perfect and no leaks.
3rd close fumoto valve after oil has been drained
4th remove oil filter, I just go from the top side so I don't have to remove the extra panel. there is a small hole in skid plate between the LCAs that the excess oil will drain from make sure you get the oil pan under that hole
5th put in new filter, again from the top side, hand tight.
6th fill with your favorite brand of oil.
7th run truck for a few minutes then check the oil level again after it has had a chance to run the oil through the filter. Top off as needed
8th reset oil life thing in truck.

That is how I've always done it and have never had any issues. Tightness of the fumoto into a metal pan i don't know just always gone to what feels good and puts the valve tab in an easy spot to turn. I've put one in my WRX too, easiest oil change ever on that thing! 100% tool less.
 

Allan A

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I have a 2020, this appears to be the oil drain plug. Is this correct? Its not yellow and the Ronin X001VO1XTH I bought will not work.

Thanks, ALlan

IMG_1373.JPG
 

jabroni619

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The first and last oil change I did on my Raptor I broke one of the locking tabs off the plastic drain plug, made a mess on myself, driveway and skid plate. Got too discouraged to even attempt removing the filter... Have paid someone else to do it ever since and don't regret that choice one bit.
 
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