Plenty of misinformation going on in this thread, from people who may not have any actual tuning experience, or even engine control logic experience.
@letsgetthisdone is giving a bunch of sound advice.
The tuner should have already built your tune around e10, they change the stoich number in the PCM from 14.7 to 14.1 that is all it takes. E10 does not hurt power, and you can make more power from E10 than you can from straight 91, e10 will have an octane of approximately 93.2. In a forced induction application especially: more octane means more timing, means more power and more safety. You will generally experience better mileage with e10 and e20 because you will have more advanced cruise timing. If you are going to argue against this you better bring both barrels loaded up with some facts; not regurgitated internet dribble, engage the problem and understand it for yourself.
Startron does little for you if you are consuming your fuel regularly, its great for storage.
A dyno tune does very little for drivability, Dyno's are awesome for initial tuning: You can hold a load and fill out every table in a tune, you can run a car hard without breaking any laws and dial in the peak... but they do not simulate every day driving very well. I think an email tune from someone like JDM is likely to have very good drivability compared to the dyno. They have worked with and logged these trucks enough, in enough conditions to know what is going to work well, experience, specialization and a lexicon of logs in all sorts of conditions is far superior to Joe Blows dyno service. It sounds like the OP is probably outside of the 95% normal threshold, and needs to log and send the info to JDM.
If you want optimum drivability you need to drive, log, make changes and repeat. Either do it remotely or learn to tune yourself, if you have interest in tuning it is a worthwhile skill, and will make you a better driver, mechanic and diagnostician.
