DIY - Stock Raptor 2.5 Shock Rebuild.

[m3dragon]

OH crap. Fastest way would be to Ping Kartek and have one mailed to you. I think it is 2mm.

 

[Cole2534]

I'm going to pull a rear shock, measure the ball and then reinstall it.

Then I'll know for sure....and it will probably be some non standard size, but hey, that's why we call baltec.

 

[m3dragon]

I'm going to pull a rear shock, measure the ball and then reinstall it.

Then I'll know for sure....and it will probably be some non standard size, but hey, that's why we call baltec.

Ping matt at forged-offroad. He said he will send you one.

[email protected]

 

[Cole2534]

Ping matt at forged-offroad. He said he will send you one.

[email protected]

Matt replied that they are 3.15mm, or 1/8".

$3.11/100 @ MMC

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[BenBB]

I got my rears done and finally getting around to posting some pics and notes:

1. Once again the pdf and walkthrough on the first page are spot on. A month or two ago I decided to build a couple tools for the floating piston and reservoir cap out of some round stock and a couple bolts (1/4" course thread, 3/8" fine thread), found out the t-handles need to be short to clear the shock body/shaft so chopped them off with a cutoff wheel. Cap tool:

2. Floating piston tool:

3. Once again the shaft bullet and gland wrench worked great, piston stack holder I made worked great keeping all the shims in order:

4. One of my plastic shock guard screws was folded over and taco'd, I tried hacksawing a straight notch and using a screwdriver, that didn't work, wound up sawing off the head and prying the plastic off, used vice grips to rotate the old screw out. Found a hex head bolt laying around the shop, looks like fine thread 1/4" but not 100% sure:

Thanks again to everyone that contributed to this thread, ride is so much better now!!!

 

[Cole2534]

I've thought about putting together a tool kit for this work. It'd be a steel gland wrench with pins, a delrin shaft bullet and a piston puller.

If this interests anyone let me know.

 

[Johnny Walker]

Anyone else have trouble removing a shock cap? I mounted the shock in a bench vice and used a long breaker bar, but after a few unsuccessful attempts to loosen it the spanner just snapped. The shock appears to be in good condition, and the spanner was a good quality race tech tool. That cap is just freaking on there.

Does anyone have any tips for breaking the caps free?

 

[mmaterni]

Anyone else have trouble removing a shock cap? I mounted the shock in a bench vice and used a long breaker bar, but after a few unsuccessful attempts to loosen it the spanner just snapped. The shock appears to be in good condition, and the spanner was a good quality race tech tool. That cap is just freaking on there.

Does anyone have any tips for breaking the caps free?

The first time I do a rebuild when the cap has the factory torque on it I use a large pipe that goes around the spanner wrench and a 4 foot long breaker bar on the other end on the pipe covering the spanner wrench.

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[BenBB]

Anyone else have trouble removing a shock cap? I mounted the shock in a bench vice and used a long breaker bar, but after a few unsuccessful attempts to loosen it the spanner just snapped. The shock appears to be in good condition, and the spanner was a good quality race tech tool. That cap is just freaking on there.

Does anyone have any tips for breaking the caps free?

I had one cap that was a bitch, used that Ampro gland wrench from amazon and a 1/2"-drive 3' breaker bar...

The first time I do a rebuild when the cap has the factory torque on it I use a large pipe that goes around the spanner wrench and a 4 foot long breaker bar on the other end on the pipe covering the spanner wrench.

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...4' breaker woulda been even better.

 

[Johnny Walker]

The first time I do a rebuild when the cap has the factory torque on it I use a large pipe that goes around the spanner wrench and a 4 foot long breaker bar on the other end on the pipe covering the spanner wrench.

Thanks for the help sir, I'm going to regroup and try again soon. If I understand correctly it sounds like the pipe covers as much of the spanner as it can. The pipe I used as a breaker bar only went halfway up the spanner, which caused a weak point. If I purchase the same style spanner again i'll go with a larger diameter pipe.

---------- Post added at 08:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:12 PM ----------

I had one cap that was a bitch, used that Ampro gland wrench from amazon and a 1/2"-drive 3' breaker bar...



...4' breaker woulda been even better.

Thanks for the info sir! I think maybe i'll try that Ampro wrench next, though i'l have to buy the 1/2" breaker bar too I guess. I don't want to risk breaking my 1/2" drive wrench on it.