DIY - Stock Raptor 2.5 Shock Rebuild.

[BenBB]

Thanks for the help sir, I'm going to regroup and try again soon. If I understand correctly it sounds like the pipe covers as much of the spanner as it can. The pipe I used as a breaker bar only went halfway up the spanner, which caused a weak point. If I purchase the same style spanner again i'll go with a larger diameter pipe.

That might be all it takes if you can choke up on the spanner close to the cap and have enough length of pipe for leverage, it will let go with enough grunt (and cursing, that does help). You could try to get some penetrating oil on the threads as well, with some time it might find its way in there...

Thanks for the info sir! I think maybe i'll try that Ampro wrench next, though i'l have to buy the 1/2" breaker bar too I guess. I don't want to risk breaking my 1/2" drive wrench on it.

No problem! The Ampro I found is one of a few knockoffs of OTC (best quality but expensive), if you go that route yes definitely invest in a 1/2" breaker bar, ideally one with a good lifetime warranty

 

[Cole2534]

I made this hammer wrench. Couple whacks with a ball pein and you're free.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

 

[crazbiker4]

Hello everyone! Finally got a Raptor (2013 SCREW, Flame Blue) and am looking to rebuild the shocks soon. I have a lot of experience rebuilding the mountain bike products from Fox so this should be fairly simple. A few things I would like to add to support this very informative thread.

On the Fox website they have a exploded view of the rear shock, for some reason the front is not listed?
http://www.ridefox.com/fox17/dl/offroad/exviews/FOX_OR_INT-Bypass_Exploded_A.pdf

This may help us identify each part if someone has an issue or question.

I found this fill station:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nitrogen-Fill-Tank-Nitro-Shocks-Regulator-Hose-Gauge-QUALITY-Jeep-Truck-Off-Road-/112540346035?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10

Anyone use this one before? You would still need the needle valve and pressure gauge so this setup would be in the $350 range and most likely delivered empty.

Lastly, this is more of a convenience item but for the MTB shocks I use an assembly or seal grease that works really well on seals and such. It is able to mix with shock fluid and is recommended by most big name MTB suspension companies. It is called Slick Honey and is pretty easy to find. It does have a max temp rating to 250F which I am not sure that is enough for a truck or not . However it would only be for lubing the seals for assembly.

https://buzzysusa.com/

Looks like Race Tech makes a seal grease as well but does not show a temp rating.

 

[m3dragon]

Lastly, this is more of a convenience item but for the MTB shocks I use an assembly or seal grease that works really well on seals and such. It is able to mix with shock fluid and is recommended by most big name MTB suspension companies. It is called Slick Honey and is pretty easy to find. It does have a max temp rating to 250F which I am not sure that is enough for a truck or not . However it would only be for lubing the seals for assembly.

Shocks for what we do will be in the 150-250 range depending on driver. They can go as high as 300 if really driving hard. However going the extreme means you need to rebuild the shocks after that trail run.

 

[crazbiker4]

A follow up question...

Has anyone done a flutter stack during the rebuild? Seems it would be easy enough since you have to remove the shim stack on the rears anyways.

 

[BenBB]

Hello everyone! Finally got a Raptor (2013 SCREW, Flame Blue) and am looking to rebuild the shocks soon. I have a lot of experience rebuilding the mountain bike products from Fox so this should be fairly simple. A few things I would like to add to support this very informative thread.

On the Fox website they have a exploded view of the rear shock, for some reason the front is not listed?
http://www.ridefox.com/fox17/dl/offroad/exviews/FOX_OR_INT-Bypass_Exploded_A.pdf

This may help us identify each part if someone has an issue or question.

I found this fill station:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nitrogen-Fill-Tank-Nitro-Shocks-Regulator-Hose-Gauge-QUALITY-Jeep-Truck-Off-Road-/112540346035?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10

Anyone use this one before? You would still need the needle valve and pressure gauge so this setup would be in the $350 range and most likely delivered empty.

Lastly, this is more of a convenience item but for the MTB shocks I use an assembly or seal grease that works really well on seals and such. It is able to mix with shock fluid and is recommended by most big name MTB suspension companies. It is called Slick Honey and is pretty easy to find. It does have a max temp rating to 250F which I am not sure that is enough for a truck or not . However it would only be for lubing the seals for assembly.

https://buzzysusa.com/

Looks like Race Tech makes a seal grease as well but does not show a temp rating.

The exploded view is close, but there's no threaded preload and some other minor differences to the OEM 2.5's, not sure why they don't have both front and rear anywhere :/

That fill station looks great, don't forget the needles along with gauge/valve. If you've done shocks before these will be cake.

Slick Honey looks awesome, I'm saving that link. Let us know how it goes!!

---------- Post added at 10:23 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:20 AM ----------

A follow up question...

Has anyone done a flutter stack during the rebuild? Seems it would be easy enough since you have to remove the shim stack on the rears anyways.

I haven't, and it would be if you know what shims to put where (shim stack comes off with piston on both front & rear BTW). Beyond buying the $300 shim set from Fox, you would have to trial and error it unless someone in the know is willing to share...

 

[n2xlr8n]

Yep. I just created a north Alabama raptor group on Facebook. We are planning a run for next month. If you're interested in joining the group let me know, I'll add you.

+1

Back on topic, sorry.

 

[crazbiker4]

All, I am getting closer to starting my rebuild and have a question. Do I need a spring compressor? I watched the Forged Off road video on how to remove the shock from the front and he does not use one. Or is one needed to get the spring back on not off? I am not going to mid perch so need to compress the spring as much.

Also, for anyone who would like to save a few bucks on the nitro fill station.... i am going to swap to schrader valves and use a bicycle shock pump to do the rebuild but take the shocks to a local ATV shop to fill with nitro. I was quoted $27 for all 4. Just thought I would toss this out there for anyone who may not want to mess with the fill station. However you will need to get the shock pump to push the IFPs out and to bleed the shocks. These start at $25 and are capable up to 600psi depending on which one you get. Fox actually make a digital one for around $65.

Thanks for the help! cant wait to tackle this!!!

 

[Cole2534]

IMO, you need the spring compressor regardless of changing the perch height. It makes getting the lower shock bolt into position much easier.

 

[m3dragon]

U need a compressor to put spring back on no matter what. If doing low perch then cheap harbor freight ones are fine. If you need help shoot me a PM or get stuck shoot me a PM and I can give you my cell.