DIY stereo upgrade for under $500.00

[dhmcfadin]

Hi, I just wanted to thank everyone who contributed to this thread. It really gave me the information I was looking for in how to correct the SQ issues I've been experiencing in my 2018 B&O Play equipped truck.

Unfortunately I decided to try my luck with a warranty replacement of my driver side door speaker prior to finding/reading this thread. My assumption was that the dealer would simply replace the driver side front 6x9 mid-bass speaker since it was making a buzzing or rattling sound like it was blown. Unfortunately, Ford now has a service procedure which allows the dealer to reprogram the BCE module (as indicated on the work order I received from the dealer) which seems to have eliminated most of the mid-bass response from my front speakers, almost like they modified the crossover frequency or something. While this eliminated most of the buzzing sound I was hearing, everything now sounds terrible/completely flat even after adjusting the treble, mid-range, and bass settings in the head unit.

My truck is back at the dealer today as I've asked them to set everything back to the way it was - which I was just told, they're not sure they can do. Prior to bringing it back in I spent some time looking in FORScan to compare the settings in my truck to the as built data from the Ford service site hoping that I could restore the original settings, but everything seems to match up. So now I'm just hoping that they can reset the EQ or crossover settings back to what it was so I can install new speakers and add some sound deadening as recommended here.

Anyhow, I'm really hoping to be able to install a set of Morel Tempo Ultra 692 to correct my buzzing issue and improve the SQ of my stock setup, but wanted to post this here in case anyone contemplated letting the dealer try to "fix" a blown speaker first. My biggest fear is that they won't be able/willing to set it back leaving me with little to no mid-bass regardless of what type of speakers are installed.

There is no BCE module.

Any audio functions will be under the ACM-Audio Control Module. There is a specific tab in the spreadsheet for B&O systems.

Look at:
783-02-01-x*xx

*= 0 or 2 try both.

 

[USA414]

There is no BCE module.

Any audio functions will be under the ACM-Audio Control Module. There is a specific tab in the spreadsheet for B&O systems.

Look at:
783-02-01-x*xx

*= 0 or 2 try both.

Thanks, I'm pretty sure I checked there but I'll check it again tomorrow after I get my truck back.

This is what the service invoice says...

 

[lawdog]

Thanks, I'm pretty sure I checked there but I'll check it again tomorrow after I get my truck back.

This is what the service invoice says...

If they can’t reverse it (which I find hard to believe), tell them you want a replacement unit...they messed it up, they need to replace it. That is ridiculous.

 

[USA414]

If they can’t reverse it (which I find hard to believe), tell them you want a replacement unit...they messed it up, they need to replace it. That is ridiculous.

I agree, and if I can't get it 100% sorted out myself with FORScan, I'll push back and work towards getting a replacement module. The strange thing is that they claim that they couldn't revert the software or make any other changes, but after picking the truck up from the dealer, my Sync settings and FordPass account was reset again like it was the first time they reprogrammed it. I only had a little time to listen to everything on my drive in this morning and make quick adjustments to the audio settings, but the mid-bass seems to be much better than it was after they initially reprogrammed it. To be honest, after the reprogram it sounded like there was a gap in the low pass filter between the sub-woofer and the 6x9's in the front. Almost like if you were to change the low pass filter from 80 Hz to 100 or 120 Hz but everything in the 81-100/120 range just got filtered out completely as opposed to being crossed/fed to either the sub-woofer or the full range speakers. It now sounds like the low pass filter is still set higher than when I got the truck, so the sub-woofer is now handling both lower frequencies and a bit of mid-bass. Anyhow, I'm not sure if that makes sense or is even possible, but they definitely reset everything since I had to re-link my FordPass account to my truck, repair my phone via Bluetooth and CarPlay, as well as readjust the clock and audio settings again. I'll head out at lunch time to take another listen, but it certainly sounds better than after the initial program that the dealer performed. Hopefully I can find the low pass filter setting or EQ setting they changed in FORScan to confirm this, and even set it back as I still think it sounded a little better from the factory but at least this is a step in the right direction.

 

[amg55driver]

question regarding speaker upgrade.

I got a set of Pioneer (Pioneer TS-A692F) 6X9 with mounting kit + wire harness for fronts, Pioneer (TS-A652C) 6.5 with mounting kit + wire harness, and Pioneer tweeters for the A pillar.

Will everything else be direct plug and play, other than tweeters need some hot glue etc?

how much sqft of sound deadening needed to cover the four doors? (dynamat or kilmat)..

Will this overpower the factory amp? (B&O)

TIA.

 

[dhmcfadin]

question regarding speaker upgrade.

I got a set of Pioneer (Pioneer TS-A692F) 6X9 with mounting kit + wire harness for fronts, Pioneer (TS-A652C) 6.5 with mounting kit + wire harness, and Pioneer tweeters for the A pillar.

Will everything else be direct plug and play, other than tweeters need some hot glue etc?

how much sqft of sound deadening needed to cover the four doors? (dynamat or kilmat)..

Will this overpower the factory amp?

TIA.

You should not be running coaxial and tweeters together. You a component set in the front. Midbass in the door, tweeter in the a-pillar.

As long as you have the right speaker adapters, everything should be fairly straight forward. Tweets will need to be soldered and glued in place or you can use some metal strapping to hold the tweeter in.

The factory amp will be fine. Assuming you have Sony/b&o. If you do not have either of these, you will need to install the passive crossover that comes with the components. The crossover will install inline with the tweeter channel. There is a cubby beneath each a-pillar for the crossover to rest.

One box of noico will be plenty for all four doors.

 

[amg55driver]

You should not be running coaxial and tweeters together. You a component set in the front. Midbass in the door, tweeter in the a-pillar.

As long as you have the right speaker adapters, everything should be fairly straight forward. Tweets will need to be soldered and glued in place or you can use some metal strapping to hold the tweeter in.

The factory amp will be fine. Assuming you have Sony/b&o. If you do not have either of these, you will need to install the passive crossover that comes with the components. The crossover will install inline with the tweeter channel. There is a cubby beneath each a-pillar for the crossover to rest.

One box of noico will be plenty for all four doors.

Thank for the quick reply. so what is it that you are not recommending running coaxial / tweeter together? sounds bad? (worse than factory?) or error in the system? I have B&O (just updated the post)..

 

[dhmcfadin]

Thank for the quick reply. so what is it that you are not recommending running coaxial / tweeter together? sounds bad? (worse than factory?) or error in the system? I have B&O (just updated the post)..

A front stage consists of a midbass and a tweeter. The way your factory system is configured and any aftermarket system from cheap to 10k+ has this Sam configuration. Having tweeters in the door and a-pillar can make things very harsh to listen to and skew the stereo image. It will sound terrible.

 

[amg55driver]

A front stage consists of a midbass and a tweeter. The way your factory system is configured and any aftermarket system from cheap to 10k+ has this Sam configuration. Having tweeters in the door and a-pillar can make things very harsh to listen to and skew the stereo image. It will sound terrible.

so do not use the pioneer provided tweeters? just stick with factory a pillar Chinese crap tweeters?

 

[dhmcfadin]

so do not use the pioneer provided tweeters? just stick with factory a pillar Chinese crap tweeters?

No. You need a set of component speakers for the front. A component speaker consists of an independent midbass and tweeter. You replace all oem speakers. The pioneer speakers you listed in your first post are coax not component. Get rid of the coax and tweeters that you bought for the front of the truck. Replace those with a good set of components.