DIY stereo upgrade for under $500.00

[dhmcfadin]

This is a great thread which I can’t believe I’ve actually read all of. Lots of great advice here that has enabled me to craft the following plan (for a 2018 B&O) which I’d like to battle-test with you fine folks.

As a primer, I’m not a true audiophile…just want the music to be “loud and clear” (or at least “clearer when louder”). Budget isn’t my main constraint…time and complexity is. I want to do the upgrades with the most bang for the time/complexity. To that end, I’ve decided that I’m not going to mess with the main amp and signal processor…now or ever. Finally, I want everything to look stock, meaning no sub box beneath the back seats.

Here is the plan:

1) Replace just the front door speakers and A pillar tweeters. I’m leaning toward Morel Tempo Ultras. I understand that that is more speaker than the stock amp will know what to do with but the extra ~$200 is worth it to me compared to say the JBLs/Infinitis that multiple folks have said clip at higher volume. The existing system gets plenty loud for me so I don’t feel the need for lower ohm/increased efficiency. On this point, is it worth the extra ~$130 to go from the Morel 692s to the 602s?

2) MTI sub enclosure behind the back seat. I’m leaning toward the single 10” JL Audio because I believe it will be the easiest to install, especially with smurfslayers awesome install post (and also because I’m not planning to remove the stock amp). I’d happily go to the 13” or dual 10” if folks are convinced it’s worth the extra install effort in the context of this plan.

3) Since I will be accessing the front doors and the back wall to install the front speakers and sub box, I figure I’ll Dynamat (or similar) those areas. I wouldn’t plan to open up the back doors just to Dynamat them (as I don’t plan to replace those speakers) but am willing to be convinced otherwise

Does this plan make sense as a cohesive whole? In other words, is there an element missing that would have more "bang for the time/complexity" or does anything in the plan not make sense if I’m not going to upgrade the main amp/processor?

Thanks.

1. No, not worth it.
2. More than (1) 10 and you will overpower the rest of the stock system.
3. Second Skin is significantly better than dynamite. You will also want acoustical foam inside the doors and closed cell foam in between the door and door panel.

 

[BigRedd]

Thank you, dhmcfadin.

On #3, can you please clarify the products/locations you mention? Maybe there’s a thread that already covers it? I’m clear on the Dynamat/Second Skin and where that goes. What acoustical foam product (I assume you mean something other than polyfill)? And is the closed cell foam intended to cover the large hole in the metal skin of the door? Or the whole metal facing (whether including the hole or not) before putting the trim panel back on?

Thanks.

 

[dhmcfadin]

Thank you, dhmcfadin.

On #3, can you please clarify the products/locations you mention? Maybe there’s a thread that already covers it? I’m clear on the Dynamat/Second Skin and where that goes. What acoustical foam product (I assume you mean something other than polyfill)? And is the closed cell foam intended to cover the large hole in the metal skin of the door? Or the whole metal facing (whether including the hole or not) before putting the trim panel back on?

Thanks.

Here’s a link to my sound deadening album. I don’t show the acoustical foam but here is the link to what I use. Cut it into 4x5 squares and stick it inside the door. It helps with resonance inside the door.

https://www.parts-express.com/sonic...nd-damping-material-with-psa-18-x-24--260-535

https://imgur.com/a/9FQwDIg

 

[iumbastu]

Swapped out the front tweeters and center speaker. Highs are definitely more vibrant. I’m still a bit frustrated Ford is installing Chinese speakers in our Sony systems (I have a ‘17.)

At least the pioneers are from Vietnam [emoji3]

Sub and doors to be installed this weekend time permitting.

PM me if you want the spare center. Install time to remove and solder in the replacement and put items back together was 20 minutes in total (another 5 to put tools away to insure I don’t get yelled at for my side of the garage being a mess...)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[iumbastu]

Swapped out the front tweeters and center speaker. Highs are definitely more vibrant. I’m still a bit frustrated Ford is installing Chinese speakers in our Sony systems (I have a ‘17.)

At least the pioneers are from Vietnam [emoji3]

Sub and doors to be installed this weekend time permitting.

PM me if you want the spare center. Install time to remove and solder in the replacement and put items back together was 20 minutes in total (another 5 to put tools away to insure I don’t get yelled at for my side of the garage being a mess...)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[lawdog]

Swapped out the front tweeters and center speaker. Highs are definitely more vibrant. I’m still a bit frustrated Ford is installing Chinese speakers in our Sony systems (I have a ‘17.)

At least the pioneers are from Vietnam [emoji3]

Sub and doors to be installed this weekend time permitting.

PM me if you want the spare center. Install time to remove and solder in the replacement and put items back together was 20 minutes in total (another 5 to put tools away to insure I don’t get yelled at for my side of the garage being a mess...)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Note that you, like many others, swapped a 4ohm replacement in for an 8ohm in the center...that is going to make that center, now with a separate tweeter, play even louder. You describe it as "vibrant", but try it without the center and I bet it will sound better and definitely image better. Again, most installers either leave the center alone or disconnect it...you definitely don't want to make it louder. Unless, of course, that's how you really like it...then, America = do what you want.

 

[USA414]

Hi, I just wanted to thank everyone who contributed to this thread. It really gave me the information I was looking for in how to correct the SQ issues I've been experiencing in my 2018 B&O Play equipped truck.

Unfortunately I decided to try my luck with a warranty replacement of my driver side door speaker prior to finding/reading this thread. My assumption was that the dealer would simply replace the driver side front 6x9 mid-bass speaker since it was making a buzzing or rattling sound like it was blown. Unfortunately, Ford now has a service procedure which allows the dealer to reprogram the BCE module (as indicated on the work order I received from the dealer) which seems to have eliminated most of the mid-bass response from my front speakers, almost like they modified the crossover frequency or something. While this eliminated most of the buzzing sound I was hearing, everything now sounds terrible/completely flat even after adjusting the treble, mid-range, and bass settings in the head unit.

My truck is back at the dealer today as I've asked them to set everything back to the way it was - which I was just told, they're not sure they can do. Prior to bringing it back in I spent some time looking in FORScan to compare the settings in my truck to the as built data from the Ford service site hoping that I could restore the original settings, but everything seems to match up. So now I'm just hoping that they can reset the EQ or crossover settings back to what it was so I can install new speakers and add some sound deadening as recommended here.

Anyhow, I'm really hoping to be able to install a set of Morel Tempo Ultra 692 to correct my buzzing issue and improve the SQ of my stock setup, but wanted to post this here in case anyone contemplated letting the dealer try to "fix" a blown speaker first. My biggest fear is that they won't be able/willing to set it back leaving me with little to no mid-bass regardless of what type of speakers are installed.

 

[lawdog]

Hi, I just wanted to thank everyone who contributed to this thread. It really gave me the information I was looking for in how to correct the SQ issues I've been experiencing in my 2018 B&O Play equipped truck.

Unfortunately I decided to try my luck with a warranty replacement of my driver side door speaker prior to finding/reading this thread. My assumption was that the dealer would simply replace the driver side front 6x9 mid-bass speaker since it was making a buzzing or rattling sound like it was blown. Unfortunately, Ford now has a service procedure which allows the dealer to reprogram the BCE module (as indicated on the work order I received from the dealer) which seems to have eliminated most of the mid-bass response from my front speakers, almost like they modified the crossover frequency or something. While this eliminated most of the buzzing sound I was hearing, everything now sounds terrible/completely flat even after adjusting the treble, mid-range, and bass settings in the head unit.

My truck is back at the dealer today as I've asked them to set everything back to the way it was - which I was just told, they're not sure they can do. Prior to bringing it back in I spent some time looking in FORScan to compare the settings in my truck to the as built data from the Ford service site hoping that I could restore the original settings, but everything seems to match up. So now I'm just hoping that they can reset the EQ or crossover settings back to what it was so I can install new speakers and add some sound deadening as recommended here.

Anyhow, I'm really hoping to be able to install a set of Morel Tempo Ultra 692 to correct my buzzing issue and improve the SQ of my stock setup, but wanted to post this here in case anyone contemplated letting the dealer try to "fix" a blown speaker first. My biggest fear is that they won't be able/willing to set it back leaving me with little to no mid-bass regardless of what type of speakers are installed.

That sucks...I'd make them flash it back and give you a new $5 chinese speaker to hold you over until you make the swap.

 

[smurfslayer]

I'm really hoping to be able to install a set of Morel Tempo Ultra 692 to correct my buzzing issue and improve the SQ of my stock setup, but wanted to post this here in case anyone contemplated letting the dealer try to "fix" a blown speaker first.

Make sure you don’t mod on top of an existing problem. if you have a head unit, module, amp or circuit problem causing the buzzing, swapping the speaker won’t help.

 

[USA414]

Really disappointed, I just spoke with my service adviser who informed me that there's nothing that they can do to reverse the service procedure. He said whatever they programmed cannot be undone or rolled back. I guess I'll try to call corporate and see if they if they can do anything, but doubt they'll do anything since this is Ford's recommended service procedure. It looks like I'm either going to be stuck with it or will have to bite the bullet and spend serious money on a complete upgrade which I'm not sure I can justify.